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LS1 / SKYLINE Dyno Day Results


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Originally posted by Nightcrawler

Maybe, (in order to make Brad and my results MUCH better), you should find out the dry weight of each car and post the power to weight ratio alongside ;) .... hmmmm I think my 1240kg weight is to my advantage :)

Personally, I would prefer to use the wet weight, I tend to have engine problems with no oil in the car. Since the dyno has measured rwkW. The combo of the power getting to the road with the weight on the road is a good thing.

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Originally posted by Clint32

Martin would you mind giving your opinion on my setup I am currently planning/building for my 32.

HKS T04e, recod with new comp wheel .6A/R exhaust and comp housing

Turbosmart external gate

PWR 600 x 300 x 73 cooler  

3.5''exhaust

044 pump with GTR injectors

New inlet manifold (due to my ability to make myself)

Run by Halltech probably  

Hopeing for about 230-240 @ the wheels, will it work

You SHOULD make that power. You dont need to go that far though, which is my point. Use a bolt on HKS 2540, use the cooler, or a second hand GTR unit, modify the plenum to make it front feed, use the fuel pump with an adjustable reg set to 55psi base. Tune the stock management, make 240rwkw no problems at 1.3 bar. Save a heap of money. 'Brains' did it.

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Hey,

Does anyone know what the VG30 turbos are like?

I am thinking of buying one to rebuild and put on my 32,

is it worth it or is there a better option?

Anybody that can help me out it would be much appreciated.

:);)

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Martin, I understand what your saying but I have a full engineering workshop with everthing I need, so for me to that would be too easy. The turbo, wastegate and manifold mods cost me $1700 so about the same as a s/h HKS turbs and all my stuff is like new now. I have already modified the stock plenum already but I was not happy with the stock insides, dont think it would flow evenly. I will use the bottom runners and make a top half, easy. The intrcooler core is only $500 so it is better and cheaper than a GTR. The only reason I want to use the Haltech is it will do a good job and will give me somethink to play with and moniter things. I really just want to try and do something different and learn something other than bolting bits on ( I am doing and Engineering degree at uni).

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I've posted a bigger spiel in the "Performance" section but here's a quick update, & a few well deserved thank you's.

Martin recently spent some time on the dyno tweaking my Microtech LT12 - The end result was a nice safe, yet reasonably decent, 257rwkw on 13psi.

Thanks to all involved, including but not limited to -

Martin for his friendly assistance, time (one very busy man!) & tuning knowledge.

Mark for the dyno time.

And a special thanks to Tim/Ivan & all the boys @ RPM/Horsepowerinabox for the considerable number of hrs in hands-on & tuning.

:D

Matt

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Finaly some ones seen the light, MoTeC is the best u can get. Many of my friends drag cars run the M8 system, its is without doubt the best setup for most cars.The M8 can be triggered by either a hall effect switch, a logic drive or a magnetic sensor. There is no EPROM with these setups as it uses flash memory cards which r very good. Proper stuff that is. Optional features on the M8-Pro include dual high accuracy fully temperature compensated wideband lambda (mixture strength) sensors and 512K internal data logging memory. " very kewl stuff ". This microcontroller contains over 420,000 transistors. That the M4 reads its sensors 2400 times per second, and the entire control program is recalculated 200 times per second demonstrates its power. 200 samples a second , " I got to get me one of these " :]

Coupled with a NTK UEGO Sensor and a MoTeC Professional Lambda Meter (PLM) its a very good setup. Also if u wanna spend some more money get a MoTeC CDI/8 Capacitor Discharge Ignition for the ultimate setup. It can be driven by a single wire from a Motec ECU or can be used standalone with full RPM and Load mapping of the ignition advance.

You can get some serious datta logging with these MoTeC systems witch will help tuning the car so much easier. A laptop computer is a must for tuning, im sure some one has one u could use to do it with. Ask Munro nicely :]

Well theres some food for thought.

Im sure Martin can give u some more advice on what would work best for your needs but that setup i mentioned is prob the best u can buy for your car. Costly upgrade though well WORTH IT if u want serious perfomance.

:burnout:

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Thanks mate, I have been reading up on them and I know the M800 can do just about anything you want. I probably dont need to go that extreme a M48 would do the job nicley i think, its not a race car just a street car that may d the occasional drag. It should hopefully run all the factory ignition. I was going to get a Haltech but a company we do work for uses them on trucks they convert to gas so I will be able to do some work to get it.

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! main reason for this is ppl r cheap skates. To many ppl try to save a few $$$ and buy cheaper stuff i would call "crap". Thats the reason most ppl know nothing about them. MoTeC owns all others. Not that it bothers me cause i use carbies:] Next thing u know ppl will start bagging MSD ignitions. Whats this world coming 2. Maybe we should sell all our cars and buy Barinas.

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Hrmm Ok then..

So would you say that the Microtech was the Cheaper crap then? :P

If it works who cares.

We arn't really building mega dollar drag cars here.

More i'd say Budget $$ performance cars that are reliable.

For example I have no need for another ECU.

So why bother an ECU remap will do fine.

Chill... :burnout:

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GTR King - How can you call people who buy Microtech etc. cheap skates?

Thats bullshit

Does that make me a cheap skate when I get my computer re-mapped to suit my mods instead of buying a Motec, and what about people with Power FC's, are they cheap skates as well?

I don't think so - just smart, because with most of the mods everyone has a Re-map/Microtech/Power FC is perfect

We don't drive JGTC cars - just quick road cars

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