Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

I have so many questions but would like to try the short version first so as to not bore everyone.

I'm hoping SAU will be a wealth of people that has been through this before and know how the system works. I'm in over my head and trying to get some facts straight before I commit to anything.

 

I have ( had ) An R34, Turbo, manual, coupe, it was stolen and thrashed for a night and dumped the next morning, more or less straight.

The insurance company ( not sure if i should name them ) have had the car at a questionable garage in Dandenong, Vic for 4! weeks.

The insurance assessor contacted me today.  Word for word:

"Mate, we're not going to go down the road of repair, we're happy to give you the agreed value (17k) if you can get down tomorrow and clear out your personal belongings from the vehicle."

Some people would not touch their car again if it was stolen and thrashed. I understand this.

I've also been warned from two other people in the industry to ' don't let the insurance people have it'

I haven't made up my mind and i welcome peoples opinions, but the meat of the matter is:

 

 

*I am not convinced the mechanic yard ( 1 star review on google ) has been honest, and done due dilligence. They reported the car runs, but has a 'judder' that the believe may be gearbox. However.. this is only from running it up the 50 m driveway because the plates were nicked and they aren't able to drive it on the road.... Isn't this what those trader plates are for?

*I'm not convinced the insurance and mechanic aren't taking advantage and stand to profit ?

* If my agreed value was 17k, realistically what outcome other than giving up can i negotiate? Would they pay me out for example 12-14k to take it on my own?

 

Keeping on with a 2001 model car might not make sense logically... but she's 8 years of work and love, and was in really good stock condition before this happened. I'm not sure that i won't

hate myself later for 'giving up on her'

34 GTT coupes similar mileage to mine are currently going for 25-26 on carsales.

 

Help, please :)

 

13 minutes ago, Little said:

* If my agreed value was 17k, realistically what outcome other than giving up can i negotiate? Would they pay me out for example 12-14k to take it on my own?

In this regard, it depends on the insurance company, I've had an experience with a previously stolen car that was written off, agreed value was paid out, i think it was about $3.5K, and I was able to buy the car back for $400 as that is what the assessor deemed the scrap value to be.

Buying the car back like this though you would want to confirm it's been classed as a repairable writeoff and they'll give you a list of repairs required to re-register which i believe has to be done by a certified mechanic or at least inspected by one(?)

  • Like 1

Negotiate with the insurance company to buy the wreck back off them.  Just make sure its a registerable wreck!!!  Don't let them write it off!!!

^^^Wot 'e sed!!!

 

I bought my earlier written off Stagea just because I knew the value of the parts in it. I had no intention of putting it back on the road but just bought another Stagea and swapped all the good bits on to it.

I would offer to buy the wreck. Let them name a price first - it could well be less than what you are prepared to pay!

  • 3 weeks later...

As above you can sometimes buy it back. This saves the insurance company disposing of it anyway so it's a small win for them. But yes make sure it's not classed as anything more than a statutory write off or you won't be able to register without getting engineered VASS cert etc.

You can indeed choose where it's repaired unless stated otherwise in your insurance PDS, and entitled to obtain alternative quotes. They have the opportunity to dispute in VCAT or your state equivalent, as do you.

However if they are claiming it is too much money to repair then it's unlikely they will sell the wreck for a lot (can't have cake and eat it too) so you can argue that they have deemed it worth fk all and good cause for you to take it off their hands for cheap.

If you don’t want it written off withdraw the claim. The insurance company is well within its rights to write the vehicle off. The reason they would in this particular case is because they don’t know how thrashed it is and can’t guarantee any repairs. More cost effective to write it off.

7 hours ago, Birds said:

As above you can sometimes buy it back. This saves the insurance company disposing of it anyway so it's a small win for them. But yes make sure it's not classed as anything more than a statutory write off or you won't be able to register without getting engineered VASS cert etc.

You can indeed choose where it's repaired unless stated otherwise in your insurance PDS, and entitled to obtain alternative quotes. They have the opportunity to dispute in VCAT or your state equivalent, as do you.

However if they are claiming it is too much money to repair then it's unlikely they will sell the wreck for a lot (can't have cake and eat it too) so you can argue that they have deemed it worth fk all and good cause for you to take it off their hands for cheap.

Stat write off you can’t register at all birds ?

They will only put the car on the WOVR unless there’s structural damage.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Harness is for a s1 Rb25det, and it is engine and lower harness.  the old harness had broken off plugs and was in very rough condition/exposed wires and splices etc. it is not able to be put back on the car, I could visually inspect to see if they had rewired any pins on the ecu plug. The fuel pump definitly isn’t turning off it’s an external pump and very loud you can hear it. Will look at the other harness tonight, am also going to pull the fuel rail and watch the injectors spray, will update here with what I find. Pretty sure at this point it has to be something to do with injectors because car will fire up on starting fluid and cas is clicking the Injectors. Fuel pressure is steady 43psi 
    • Check the injectors flow evenly, and are actually flowing what you and the ECU think they should be flowing. If it's starting up on starter fluid, you have a fuel issue. Is it possible under cranking your fuel pump is turning off?   The harness you replaced, is that the whole engine harness? Do yourself a test, and drop the old harness on and plug it into the Z32 ECU. It's possible they've wired things different. From memory S1 to S2 is different in RB25 and you may have a wrong loom
    • I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
    • I checked spark on all cylinders and they all visually have spark with the plug pulled and grounded, but plug 1 is the only one that fouled. This was a running swap that blew up and was rebuilt by a machine shop, put a new wiring specialties harness and did all gaskets, studs, and bolts while it was out.  compression is 135-150 across all cylinders. Aside from that from my understanding with the z32 ecu and maf the car should start regardless. The wiring for TPS and the dual 02 sensor/ dual knock sensor stuff shouldn’t actually stop the car from starting or even running well, (just slightly rich)  they just give fault codes. Car supposedly is supposed to start as long as you have z32 afm and ecu with the nistune base map and that’s info coming from a well known and trusted tuner who does a lot with SR/RB (Rsenthalpy). After more trouble shooting today where I’m at right now is that the cas is sending signal to the injectors they click while spinning the rotor, Fuel pressure is now set at 43psi, all cylinders have good compression and all of the plugs looked great (just wet with fuel) except for cylinder 1 which was very black (cylinder 1 has 150psi compression). all of the coils generate spark if pulled out and grounded out on the head. On the fuel pump car just pops into the exhaust. On starting fluid car will fire off. Hard to tell if all cylinders are firing off but definitley a couple. sounds like all of them but it’s only for 3-5 seconds hard to tell. 
×
×
  • Create New...