Spread Yo Cheeks And Lift Yo Sack... Imma teach you how to build a ER34 son!

[Count Grantleyish]

You'll pull it off, with power to back it up.
None of this bullshit aero and phat wheels for car park meets and Instagram likes ?

What he said, it’ll look amazing.

[Vodkashotx]

20 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Here's a photo of a NEO motor with R33 ancillaries bracket (the AC/PS pump were both cable tied on the body so I wouldn't need to regas lol)

 

What turbo is that? Solid size for a low mount, Don't think you'll squeeze much more in there!

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

1 hour ago, Vodkashotx said:

What turbo is that? Solid size for a low mount, Don't think you'll squeeze much more in there!

Hypergear ATR45SAT w/ 0.82 rear and ceramic ball bearing centre.

It's actually off the car now lol.. going GTX3582R and high mount now. I want that twin scroll life, not about that single scroll life anymore.

Anyone want it? Lol

[Vodkashotx]

1 hour ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Hypergear ATR45SAT w/ 0.82 rear and ceramic ball bearing centre.

It's actually off the car now lol.. going GTX3582R and high mount now. I want that twin scroll life, not about that single scroll life anymore.

Anyone want it? Lol

I see mad things with that ATR45! Getting a Garret?

I've actually never had a chance to get some bum dyno time on a twin scroll to know just how much better it is. This is my first twin scroll setup. I'm even starting to feel bad that I've gone and gotten all this genuine brand name shit; But running a mamba turbo. Sorta feels haram.

Can't back down now though, Eiji is waiting on me to send him a Dyno sheet. Poor fellas gonna be waiting a bit. More importantly though;

Edited January 6, 2019 by Vodkashotx

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

Lololol wouldn't be surprised if it the same factory produces parts for Garrett. 

Mamba turbos are decent, plenty of EVO boys use them with great results. No turbine hunting when you kiss the limiter.

Yeah I talk up Garrett shit all the time, and recommend them to all my mates/customer care but never ran a large one myself or tuned one. Most of the cars I tune are SR20s (if you follow trak-life on Instagram)

[oxford1327]

On 1/5/2019 at 12:48 PM, Vodkashotx said:

Complete new setup bud, But honestly; I would have just dropped them in if I wasn't rebuilding the whole motor. There was no real need to complete rebuild; It was just a measure I decided to take to ensure some sorts of longevity out of the motor considering it's application.

ok cheers for that, after much contemplation, forum post diving and brief discussion with mechanic I've decided to not worry about cams just yet from both a financial and current power point, from everything I have gleaned it's not worth me doing without sacrificing some everyday driveability around town etc...as well as a bucket of coin I could spend elsewhere and achieve similar results for less cost blah blah blah..

but I will say your setup looks The Tits!! and am very Jelly... 

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

23 minutes ago, oxford1327 said:

ok cheers for that, after much contemplation, forum post diving and brief discussion with mechanic I've decided to not worry about cams just yet from both a financial and current power point, from everything I have gleaned it's not worth me doing without sacrificing some everyday driveability around town etc...as well as a bucket of coin I could spend elsewhere and achieve similar results for less cost blah blah blah..

but I will say your setup looks The Tits!! and am very Jelly... 

You can easily do 400kW on stock cams, all I would do is put in head studs, go external, E85 

[oxford1327]

14 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

You can easily do 400kW on stock cams, all I would do is put in head studs, go external, E85 

at this point I am only looking to get into the mid 200kw at the treads range so it appears it won't need cams then, and am much better off chasing gains elsewhere, currently sitting at 175kw at all 4 with boost leaks when it was "tuned" and since some other mods have been done and hopefully all the boost leakage has been resolved it is due to be retuned to see what it can make on pump 98, as there is only 1 E85 outlet within 90-ish K's it isn't worth me going down that route

 

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

if you're after 250~280kW on 98RON you won't even need cams or head studs, or any head work.

Just get a high flow turbo from Tao @hyper-gear, get some decent injectors in, Nistune OR standalone ECU, some form of boost control, FMIC, fuel pump, usual shit and be happy.

Don't over think it.

[oxford1327]

2 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

if you're after 250~280kW on 98RON you won't even need cams or head studs, or any head work.

Just get a high flow turbo from Tao @hyper-gear, get some decent injectors in, Nistune OR standalone ECU, some form of boost control, FMIC, fuel pump, usual shit and be happy.

Don't over think it.

already have all of the above except for the fuel pump.

have a hamburger with the lot highflow from hypergear, bosch 725cc injectors, return flow front mount, Nistune and GFB atmo blow-off as well as GFB boost controller.

so am hoping that now I've added a set of Audi R8 coilpacks and a 10mm plenum spacer as well as tightened up the boost leaks it should get a lot closer to where I'd like it to be.

and can get another tuner that will actually use a frickin spanner to fix the fuelling from the last mob leaving it super rich and sending me away with no communication other than via text message cos they are "too busy" to speak to you EVER...

[Vodkashotx]

7 hours ago, oxford1327 said:

ok cheers for that, after much contemplation, forum post diving and brief discussion with mechanic I've decided to not worry about cams just yet from both a financial and current power point, from everything I have gleaned it's not worth me doing without sacrificing some everyday driveability around town etc...as well as a bucket of coin I could spend elsewhere and achieve similar results for less cost blah blah blah..

but I will say your setup looks The Tits!! and am very Jelly... 

Your standard head will definitely get to your power goals. Headstuds+fresh oem gasket!

I was making 310rwkw on a standard motor w/ 18xxxx kms, Head lifted after abuse most people wouldn't give their own. Drove the flamin mongrel like it was a rental with no insurance excess. And it was a mean 310kw that was very streetable par the heavy ass clutch.

Hell if I did it again, I would have just done studs and gasket and kept driving the thing. It was plenty enough for street and track. Once you start going over that 300kw; One way or another, The gremlins start creeping out.
 

4 hours ago, oxford1327 said:

already have all of the above except for the fuel pump.

have a hamburger with the lot highflow from hypergear, bosch 725cc injectors, return flow front mount, Nistune and GFB atmo blow-off as well as GFB boost controller.

so am hoping that now I've added a set of Audi R8 coilpacks and a 10mm plenum spacer as well as tightened up the boost leaks it should get a lot closer to where I'd like it to be.

and can get another tuner that will actually use a frickin spanner to fix the fuelling from the last mob leaving it super rich and sending me away with no communication other than via text message cos they are "too busy" to speak to you EVER...

Sort the boost leaks out. Don't worry too much about the coil pack unless yours are flogged, If you're really keen just get some splitfires. Standard coils will see you well past your power goal unless they're flogged.

Tuners are a finicky mob, Won't lie. Had experience with tonnes of them. Your best bet is to just speak around, But you'll generally find that the people that charge more are the ones that are in the know and keep you in the loop. Good help isn't cheap but is usually worth every cent.

If I was in Victoria; I hear nothing but amazing things from Trent @ Chequered Tuning.

[oxford1327]

39 minutes ago, Vodkashotx said:

Your standard head will definitely get to your power goals. Headstuds+fresh oem gasket!

I was making 310rwkw on a standard motor w/ 18xxxx kms, Head lifted after abuse most people wouldn't give their own. Drove the flamin mongrel like it was a rental with no insurance excess. And it was a mean 310kw that was very streetable par the heavy ass clutch.

Hell if I did it again, I would have just done studs and gasket and kept driving the thing. It was plenty enough for street and track. Once you start going over that 300kw; One way or another, The gremlins start creeping out.
 

Sort the boost leaks out. Don't worry too much about the coil pack unless yours are flogged, If you're really keen just get some splitfires. Standard coils will see you well past your power goal unless they're flogged.

Tuners are a finicky mob, Won't lie. Had experience with tonnes of them. Your best bet is to just speak around, But you'll generally find that the people that charge more are the ones that are in the know and keep you in the loop. Good help isn't cheap but is usually worth every cent.

If I was in Victoria; I hear nothing but amazing things from Trent @ Chequered Tuning.

Motor had rebuild from previous owner at around 180k, had split fires in it, and have just put the R8 coils in as well as the plenum spacer, boost leaks are hopefully solved and despite what you may have heard about certain tuners in Victoria it Will Not be going there ever again! I have a few other recommendations that I'll be chasing up very soon from a few motorsports contacts that I don't have to travel 3+ hours drive to get to, and will actually talk to you on the phone 

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

Question is, why is there a plenum spacer?

[Kinkstaah]

Also splitfires will more than handle that kind of power. I am a big advocate of the responsive 280-320kw being the peak happiness per $ spent driving mark for any R chassis skyline. It's a lot to ask from any 2.5-2.8l turbo engine if you want to ask it for a lot.

[oxford1327]

1 hour ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Question is, why is there a plenum spacer?

Plenum spacer was put in to allow clearance for the R8 coilpack heights, so I was able to keep the crossover intake instead of having to go with a FFP 

[Vodkashotx]

8 hours ago, oxford1327 said:

Plenum spacer was put in to allow clearance for the R8 coilpack heights, so I was able to keep the crossover intake instead of having to go with a FFP 

Man that's a lot of work when some fresh coil packs or spitfires would have done the job nicely!

[oxford1327]

13 minutes ago, Vodkashotx said:

Man that's a lot of work when some fresh coil packs or spitfires would have done the job nicely!

had splitfires in it and wanted something different with a ton more spark power and that ran cooler, after using the thermal gun on splitfires fresh from a couple of power runs on the highway there was average 35 degrees difference on each coil between the R8 coils and the splitfires in the same engine, same  weather conditions etc, and anything electronic that runs cooler is a win and worth it I reckon ,yeah it was a bit of work but realistically once i had the spacer made and throttle body/intake pipe modified and welded it was probably 5 hours work all up and a couple hundred bucks plus the cost of the coilpack conversion, came to about $80-90 more than a new set of splitfires

[Vodkashotx]

Can anyone give me some concrete info on head drains?

I seem to read two things here; It either is a necessity or it's useless.

[WantGTR]

Engine is out. Do it. It's cheap and at the very least it won't hurt you.

Fwiw, Mick built my motor and he put one on.

Edited January 10, 2019 by WantGTR

[Vodkashotx]

Slow and steady wins the race I guess? Life just getting in the way and stuff...

Braided fuel hose and fittings pricing is straight up highway robbery...


Removed the idle control, Cause the f**kery of fitting it and the extra hoses just was not worth it for me. Got a oil cooler kit. Replaced the fuel rail with the one that came with the manifold cause it bolted down nicely. Ran the coolant hoses. Nothing that's going to win me awards, But enough for me to lie to myself about making progress.





Things to do from here;

- Head drain kit
- Re-do injector harness
- New harmonic balancer
- Thermostat
- Drop the box, Do the push/pull conversion for clutch
- Mount up and plumb fuel system in boot
- ABS delete
- Replace the TPS with a S1 TPS
- Replace some damaged sensor plugs
- Consumables (Break in oils, oils, spark plugs, belts, gear oils, weed, coolant)
- Fit up tyres and rims, Lift vehicle an inch.
- Drop the motor in
- Make a throttle cable up
- Fit a discrete hidden hydraulic handbrake
- Do some odd interior bits like the seats, cluster, gauges and every mans favorite teenage memory: Get a new sound system.
----------------------------------------------------
- Get someone in to weld the waste gate in and plumb exhaust up
- Tune
- Rego
- Break in
- Re-tune

What engine mounts are people running with big power out there? Or just put something solid, Chain it down and go for gold?