Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Wrecking a white R32 GTS-4 sedan (4 door). Also some left over parts from another white r32 sedan. Parts in fair to good condition.

Some parts are already gone, here's what remains -

  • Shell, no crash damage, small amount of rust. Mostly stripped (not rolling). Able to be registered. Suit reshell or front cut for a GT-R. $500 
  • Front RH door x 2, $40ea
  • Front LH door, $40
  • Rear RH door x 2, $40ea
  • Rear LH door, $40
  • Bonnet, $40
  • Front guards (pair), $40ea 
  • Front bumper (unmodified), $70
  • Front bumper (cut for FMIC), $50
  • Rear bumper (unmodified), $60
  • Rear bumper (cut for towbar), $30
  • Rear bumper iron x 2, $40ea
  • Taillights, $20ea
  • Headlights, $40ea
  • Random plastics, from $5
  • Full front chassis loom (unmodified), suit R32 GT-R, $50

OE control boxes

  • GTSt (RB20DET) OE ECU, $25
  • GTS4 (RB20DET with ATTESSA output) OE ECU, $25
  • ATTESSA ECU, $25
  • HICAS ECU x 2, $10
  • Drivers window control switches, $20
  • Other as pictured $5

I'll take some photos of the shell and other random parts tomorrow and post below.

Strictly pickup from Ringwood East, Vic only. Price negotiable.

email [email protected] or PM

Thanks,

Darren.

IMG_20180929_114926.jpg

IMG_20180929_115328.jpg

IMG_20180929_115916.jpg

IMG_20180929_120245.jpg

IMG_20180929_120426.jpg

IMG_20180929_121610.jpg

I have $500 on it but I'll consider any offer.

It's not rolling, the front end is sold. The rear end is still in there, diff and axles removed, but these are still available.

Parts of the interior are sold (dash and a few random parts) and all looms are removed, only the front chassis loom is available.

I missed taking photos of it last night before it was dark, I'll do it tonight.

  • 5 months later...
  • 2 months later...

Sorry I didn't get much of a response on here and haven't been back for a while. Sold most of the bits on FB.

What's left is -

  • Front RH door, $40
  • Rear RH door, $40
  • Rear bumper (cut for towbar), $30
  • Rear bumper iron, $40
  • Headlights, $40ea
  • Random plastics, from $5
  • Full front chassis loom (unmodified), suit R32 GT-R, $50

OE control boxes

  • GTSt (RB20DET) OE ECU, $25
  • GTS4 (RB20DET with ATTESSA output) OE ECU, $25
  • ATTESSA ECU, $25
  • HICAS ECU x 2, $10
  • Other as pictured $

Thanks.

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...