Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

12 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

So what are you using to connect it? USB-serial adapter?

My mate has the proper Alexi software and plug in adapter to the USB.

It’s a “razor performance” USB adaptor or something, I’ll ask.

 But yeh, it’s all the official software and all.

USB-Serial adapters are famously a pain in the arse.  There are basically 2 or 3 chipsets in all of them.  Some of them just do not work with different peripherals.  Others work fine.  I have no knowledge of what works with the PFC.

Assuming you can get the converter to play ball with Windows, the PFC software will want to be talking to a particular COM port.  You will have to check that in the software's config and then you will want to see (in device manager) that that COM port is actually being provided by the adapter.  Sometimes you get silly shit, like the software only allows you to choose between COM1 to 3, but the adapter only provides COM15 or something equally stupid.  Sometimes there are ways to fix that sort of problem, sometimes it's just a case of trying another adapter.

  • Thanks 1
7 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

USB-Serial adapters are famously a pain in the arse.  There are basically 2 or 3 chipsets in all of them.  Some of them just do not work with different peripherals.  Others work fine.  I have no knowledge of what works with the PFC.

Assuming you can get the converter to play ball with Windows, the PFC software will want to be talking to a particular COM port.  You will have to check that in the software's config and then you will want to see (in device manager) that that COM port is actually being provided by the adapter.  Sometimes you get silly shit, like the software only allows you to choose between COM1 to 3, but the adapter only provides COM15 or something equally stupid.  Sometimes there are ways to fix that sort of problem, sometimes it's just a case of trying another adapter.

Thanks heaps, we will have a look into it and I’ll post if we figure it out ??

Google "PaulR33 Power FC FAQ'

There may be something in there. As per above, I think the Apexi softwear you have to manually choose the COM port, but FC Edit I know has an auto function to work out which COM port is being used. However this does not always guarantee it will work

Generally it will default to COM1 but if you are running windows, you should be able to go to hardware manager and see the USB to serial device there and it will either tell you what COM port is set in the properties or allow you to choose one

Be aware that the outdated PS/2 cables that Power FC's use are tempremental at times and I have seen them play up if they have been bent, squashed or mistreated. If you have a handcontroller and it works, either something to do with the cable/box for connecting to the PC is stuffed, or you have a hardware/setting problem with the PC.

As per above, some USB to serial adapters are terrible and some work flawlessly.

  • Thanks 1
26 minutes ago, 89CAL said:

Google "PaulR33 Power FC FAQ'

There may be something in there. As per above, I think the Apexi softwear you have to manually choose the COM port, but FC Edit I know has an auto function to work out which COM port is being used. However this does not always guarantee it will work

Generally it will default to COM1 but if you are running windows, you should be able to go to hardware manager and see the USB to serial device there and it will either tell you what COM port is set in the properties or allow you to choose one

Be aware that the outdated PS/2 cables that Power FC's use are tempremental at times and I have seen them play up if they have been bent, squashed or mistreated. If you have a handcontroller and it works, either something to do with the cable/box for connecting to the PC is stuffed, or you have a hardware/setting problem with the PC.

As per above, some USB to serial adapters are terrible and some work flawlessly.

Sweet, thanks heaps for the info ??

We’ve used thesame set up to tune 2 bother power FC’s (brothers r33 and our track car).

ill have a look at paulr33’s stuff now ☺️

Using an FC Hako I end up having to fk around with the com ports nearly every time. It eventually works but it comes down to me remembering which USB port it's supposed to go into and a combination of opening the app after connecting or connecting while the app is open or connecting before ignition on and waiting for the moons to align. But it does eventually connect...fortunately there's rarely someone behind me at the servo when changing tunes over with it.

  • Thanks 1

UPDATE!

So I pinched my brothers controller.

when I plug it in, the revs spike a little bit.

on the controller, twice the logo popped up then turned off, once it went through to the menu then cut out again.

the ecu works, just having issue connecting it to anything.

 

PLEASE HELP!

i don’t want to think I got ripped on a shit ecu

1 hour ago, KiwiRS4T said:

Does your brother have a Power FC as well? Try swapping it over. Better to repair or replace your ecu before you waste the tuner's time (and your dollars).

He does, we have 3 in total, one in our track car, one in my brothers and my faulty one.

weve plugged the track car one in, tuned it our selves and it ran great.

just wondering if there’s any way around the fault or a way of fixing it.

the software and plug we used worked fine on the other 2 FC’s.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...