Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Update on the build

EFR installation finished off.

1621272115_2019-05-1914_31_21.thumb.jpg.ba1292b3d159826802f704abe6e3a6d1.jpg

I decided to install a WMI kit in the car for the hell of it. Not really for added performance but more to keep intake temps down etc. I went with an AEM kit and added the fail safe flow gauge which monitors flow and alerts if it detects flow outside of an expected range, either high or low.

I made up a frame with some bar I had in the workshop.

1200136647_2019-06-0210_05_14.thumb.jpg.8f5107e3ccf2c8b693e7e7c7230a868b.jpg

Then mounted it to the rear strut brace

1344393445_2019-06-0210_41_32.thumb.jpg.a4fde290652668af314e216b64b6a1fd.jpg

Final install came out neat enough for me.

1316728859_2019-06-0617_04_59.thumb.jpg.fb6f1f37203c0d5c55b379bee6a44c8a.jpg

The injection nozzle was installed in the factory IC pipe

1990199893_2019-06-0319_12_25.thumb.jpg.05bdd27521e482f509c872782ca3c2d7.jpg

I installed the flow gauge fail safe on a small carbon panel where the ash tray would sit. I wired the gauge 0-5v=V output into the link so we can see flow in the logs.

774278318_2019-06-0319_11_57.thumb.jpg.8b3e1a2da3eb8ab04cfb9b8515f8d12f.jpg

Car then went back on the dyno to get the EFR tuned.

1170477409_2019-06-0610_13_26.thumb.jpg.068303499b98c7c134f5410106d5a1a7.jpg

Results were good, on wastegate spring (14.5 psi) the car made an extra 40KW over the old BW SXE setup. On high boost we made 403kw KW with 3 psi less boost, SXE was 380 on 22.5 psi. Response is a lot better and it drives nicer than the dyno graphs look so over all I am happy with the outcome. We didnt play around with cam gear timing in the end so that could always happen down the track. Remember this in on a completely internally stock 2.6 on 98.

Here is plot of response between the SXE8376 (Yellow and Green lines) and the EFR8374 (Pink and Blue lines).

1533119922_2019-06-0614_35_37.thumb.jpg.05fc3c68901e98ed17ec9e1d3bac8059.jpg

Power plot

19.5 PSI - 403 KW
14.5 PSI - 346 KW

125190241_2019-06-2116_19_06.thumb.jpg.88b262536b97fb37bf699c02b539a19f.jpg

cheers

 

Edited by AntsR33GTR
  • Like 5
3 hours ago, phatgtr33 said:

Good results did the trigger kit make a difference ?

 

The trigger kit was installed at the same time as the Link G4+ so i dont have any data before then. Car was running a PFC with a tune when I got it. My tuner recommended a trigger kit from the get go so I just went with his recommendation.

3 hours ago, AntsR33GTR said:

Yep head studs are a must, would like to do valve springs etc at the same time.

Its already tuned...

The beauty of RBs, you can do the headstuds with the cams still in place! So do the studs now, do the valves/springs/stem seals another time!

On 6/26/2019 at 8:17 AM, AntsR33GTR said:

 

I decided to install a WMI kit in the car for the hell of it. Not really for added performance but more to keep intake temps down etc. I went with an AEM kit and added the fail safe flow gauge which monitors flow and alerts if it detects flow outside of an expected range, either high or low.

I made up a frame with some bar I had in the workshop.

1200136647_2019-06-0210_05_14.thumb.jpg.8f5107e3ccf2c8b693e7e7c7230a868b.jpg

Then mounted it to the rear strut brace

1344393445_2019-06-0210_41_32.thumb.jpg.a4fde290652668af314e216b64b6a1fd.jpg

Final install came out neat enough for me.

1316728859_2019-06-0617_04_59.thumb.jpg.fb6f1f37203c0d5c55b379bee6a44c8a.jpg

 

Nice work with the wmi kit bracket.
 

16 hours ago, WR33KD said:

So your injecting  the meth in to intake side of everything, why not spray it into the intake of the turbo?

Yes can be done that way also. From what I understand if you are using pre-turbo injection you will only use water, not a water/methanol mix. 

I may experiment with that setup in the future just for the hell of it.

40 minutes ago, AntsR33GTR said:

Yes can be done that way also. From what I understand if you are using pre-turbo injection you will only use water, not a water/methanol mix. 

I may experiment with that setup in the future just for the hell of it.

Nope I’m going to run meth into the turbo, turbo has been rebuilt to make this happen and it’s a better way to decrease intake temps and increase power.

I wouldn’t use water on it’s own into the turbo as that’s asking for trouble down the road and deff not on a turbo that isn’t ready for it 

  • 1 month later...

Only just spotted this, nice build and some cool data - been looking at the 61mm SX-E thinking that it would be a nice match to an RB30, doesn't look bad.  Shame about the leak when it was tuned, it would obviously mess with the overlay a bit - both in terms of lag and power but clearly the EFR is a better turbo overall.

  • 11 months later...

Been a while since I have updated this thread.

Car is running awesome and have not done any major mechanical stuff, just added a few visual things to the engine bay.

Decided to replace the factory strut brace. I found some carbon tube at work and with the help of one of the boys we machines up some end caps to suit.

1127874518_2020-02-1308_40_51.thumb.jpg.d8a157e0f1eff1f0d98a84a86e53f3fd.jpg

14999811_2019-09-0209_36_25.thumb.jpg.2e45976002b3cf0c43ae129b4a2a422f.jpg

Used epoxy to bond the oval carbon tube to the end caps

680390118_2020-02-2516_36_41.thumb.jpg.2a24ce7e72f1c61ae089c1cbed311b2c.jpg

Had the strut mounts laser cut and then welded them together, pretty basic design.

1319070353_2020-02-1907_47_22.thumb.jpg.60131dd4d23d5fc47bcb93032d965b39.jpg

204909381_2020-02-2320_34_14.thumb.jpg.cd4a375ef120de4a320bc336912f6afb.jpg

Turned out OK.

448489891_2020-02-2519_50_59.thumb.jpg.4d12962aa677da36305d80626fa4020f.jpg

Also made up a brake M/C stopper for no real reason other than I had a few hours free in the shed.

1444409708_2020-04-1315_12_05.thumb.jpg.3debf65905b71ac1d1addfc14f405614.jpg

1235215397_2020-04-1315_19_46.thumb.jpg.83e767a9644fd7384958b5fb25f77843.jpg

 

  • Like 2

I decided to make up a new washer tank to replace the plastic tank I used originally.

35495401_2018-10-1915_41_50.thumb.jpg.b9548f47df04f123dcea53240166b4b0.jpg

Cracked out the tig and knocked this up

144286156_2020-06-0716_56_05.thumb.jpg.43f6361aff123f2a54cb1c22868a86a5.jpg

2125711774_2020-06-0716_56_15.thumb.jpg.2f360a4a8617f7ab178300c45beb39ec.jpg

Test fit 

1619930293_2020-06-1418_11_59.thumb.jpg.cdfc557861fb04db2bb0432794624ac2.jpg

Painted and fitted

1419293579_2020-06-1522_53_34.thumb.jpg.f8866a2673635f3a0673308c3ebc6f8d.jpg

Also sourced a carbon cooling panel to tidy the front up a bit

350335250_2020-05-1623_06_12.thumb.jpg.096f897b118db4c11e0a4d4afa3bc18f.jpg

Painted the EFR compressor housing gloss black to change the look a bit.

1876868402_2020-04-2419_29_04.thumb.jpg.b18862b00e81b14fa1326b79965031b1.jpg

Changed the turbo intake to a carbon 4" tube and swapped out the red filter for black.

53034049_2020-05-0718_46_41.thumb.jpg.a097aead3fd285aea0726b04fd89e248.jpg

331008941_2020-05-0718_46_30.thumb.jpg.4ea3c624a3995b3c23828c497389f5ed.jpg

Bay as it is now

261607691_2020-06-1522_53_38.thumb.jpg.49992ea4b1969e7f5919f280be45cbaf.jpg

807939865_2020-04-0416_26_15.thumb.jpg.fbade3b98b77c62a6ee254155815b704.jpg

  • Like 5

I wish I'd made the same progress you have over a short time!

You've done the smart thing and chosen each mod and done it in a logical way.  Mine is a dogs breakfast with multiple different things all going on at the same time which leads to brain fade and minimal progress!

Keep it up, it really is a great looking and well sorted car that is no doubt an absolute pleasure to drive!

  • 1 month later...

I decided to give the car a suspension refresh. It already has BC Gold coil overs but the rest was all OEM.

I ordered the full Hard Race arm kit for front and rear and a set of SuperPro front and rear sway bars.

Front: Adjustable upper control arm, Castor arm, 22mm Solid Sway Bar.
Rear: Adjustable lower control arm, Traction arm, Camber arm, 22mm Solid Sway Bar

One of the boys stopped in to give me a hand and we knocked out everything on a Saturday pretty easily.

Front

2008556737_2020-10-1116_54_59.thumb.jpg.cd95fc0e517eb39a9381e6ec6a08f032.jpg

GTR1.thumb.jpg.fd797af40c4b7439485b8dbb468f74bf.jpg

948563673_2020-10-1116_54_53.thumb.jpg.cd1211c8b9ec0fd783caa986691d6776.jpg

Rear

1427139058_2020-10-1112_16_30.thumb.jpg.bd83b663d1215455524dc2050fc76c20.jpg

588724455_2020-10-1112_16_36.thumb.jpg.a255483fc6bd2e87801eb20aa358313d.jpg

Car is off for an alignment later this week so will see how it drives afterwards.

  • Like 2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
    • So, what else.... Power. I don't know what it is making because I haven't done a post tune dyno run yet; I will when I get a chance. It was 240rwkw dead stock. Conclusion from the day....it does not need a single kw more until I sort some other stuff. It comes on so hard that I could hear the twin N1 turbos on the R32 crying, and I just can't use what it has around a tight track with the current setup. Brakes. They are perfect. Hit them hard all day and they never felt like having an issue; you can see in the video we were making ground on much lighter cars on better tyres under brakes. They are standard (red sport) calipers, standard size discs in DBA5000 2 piece, Winmax pads and Motul RBF600 fluid, all from Matty at Racebrakes Sydney. Keeping in mind the car is more powerful than my R32 and weighs 1780, he clearly knows his shit. Suspension. This is one of the first areas I need to change. It has electronically controlled dampers from factory, but everything is just way too soft for track work even on the hardest setting (it is nice when hustling on country roads though). In particular it rolls into oversteer mid corner and pitches too much under hard braking so it becomes unstable eg in the turn 1 kink I need to brake early, turn through the kink then brake again so I don't pirouette like an AE86. I need to get some decent shocks with matched springs and sway bars ASAP, even if it is just a v1 setup until I work out a proper race/rally setup later. Tyres. I am running Yoko A052 in 235/45/18 all round, because that was what I could get in approximately the right height on wheels I had in the shed (Rays/Nismo 18x8 off the old Leaf actually!). As track tyres they are pretty poor; I note GTSBoy recently posted a porker comparo video including them where they were about the same as AD09.....that is nothing like a top line track tyre. I'll start getting that sorted but realistically I should get proper sized wheels first (likely 9.5 +38 front and 11 +55 at the rear, so a custom order, and I can't rotate them like the R32), then work out what the best tyre option is. BTW on that, Targa Tas had gone to road tyres instead of semi slicks now so that is a whole other world of choices to sort. Diff. This is the other thing that urgently needs to be addressed. It left massive 1s out of the fish hook all day, even when I was trying not too (you can also hear it reving on the video, and see the RPM rising too fast compared to speed in the data). It has an open diff that Infiniti optimistically called a B-LSD for "Brake Limited Slip Diff". It does good straight line standing start 11s but it is woeful on the track. Nismo seem to make a 2 way for it.
    • Also, I logged some data from the ECU for each session (mostly oil pressures and various temps, but also speed, revs etc, can't believe I forgot accelerator position). The Ecutek data loads nicely to datazap, I got good data from sessions 2, 3 and 4: https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-2?log=0&data=7 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-3?log=0&data=6 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-4?log=0&data=6 Each session is cut into 3 files but loaded together, you can change between them in the top left. As the test sessions are mostly about the car, not me, I basically start by checking the oil pressure (good, or at least consistent all day). These have an electrically controlled oil pump which targets 25psi(!) at low load and 50 at high. I'm running a much thicker oil than recommended by nissan (they said 0w20, I'm running 10w40) so its a little higher. The main thing is that it doesn't drop too far, eg in the long left hand fish hook, or under brakes so I know I'm not getting oil surge. Good start. Then Oil and Coolant temp, plus intercooler and intake temps, like this: Keeping in mind ambient was about 5o at session 2, I'd say the oil temp is good. The coolant temp as OK but a big worry for hot days (it was getting to 110 back in Feb when it was 35o) so I need to keep addressing that. The water to air intercooler is working totally backwards where we get 5o air in the intake, squish/warm it in the turbos (unknown temp) then run it through the intercoolers which are say 65o max in this case, then the result is 20o air into the engine......the day was too atypical to draw a conclusion on that I think, in the united states of freedom they do a lot of upsizing the intercooler and heat exchanger cores to get those temps down but they were OK this time. The other interesting (but not concerning) part for me was the turbo speed vs boost graph: I circled an example from the main straight. With the tune boost peaks at around 18psi but it deliberately drops to about 14psi at redline because the turbos are tiny - they choke at high revs and just create more heat than power if you run them hard all the way. But you can also see the turbo speed at the same time; it raises from about 180,000rpm to 210,000rpm which the boost falls....imagine the turbine speed if they held 18psi to redline. The wastegates are electrically controlled so there is a heap of logic about boost target, actual boost, delta etc etc but it all seems to work well
    • hahah when youtube subscribers are faster than my updates here. Yes some vid from the day is up, here:  Note that as with all track day videos it is boring watching after the bloopers at the start.  The off was a genuine surprise to me, I've literally done a thousand laps around the place and I've never had instability there; basically it rolled into oversteer, slipped, gripped and spat me out. On the way off I mowed down one of the instructor's cones and it sat there all day looking at me with accusing cone eyes as I drove past. 1:13:20 was my fastest lap, and it was in the second session, 3rd lap.  It (or me!) got slower throughout the day as it got hotter.      
×
×
  • Create New...