Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all

So i'm planning on putting a fair bit more power behind my 34. Is a factory Neo, 25det manual. However am struggling to find a good clutch option to hold 300kw (expecting somewhere between 500-600nm of torque). The issue i'm having is because the car is a pull type clutch, not push. I'm also struggling to find an actual in depth guide of converting the 34 gearbox to push type, which would instantly solve my issues.

So basically i'm stuck looking for a clutch that can hold that power for pull type, because I cannot find many options over here in New Zealand. That, or has anyone had any experience or know of a guide that shows how to convert it to a push-type system? I'm not wanting to swap my gearbox for an R33 one, as mine is in perfect condition. Have heard something about potentially swapping the bellhousings over though?

Any advice or light on the subject would be appreciated!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/476002-r34-gtt-clutch-suggesstions/
Share on other sites

 

Don't bother, just run the pull type clutch.

Ring NPC clutches here in Queensland and ask for a Carbotic 6 puck to suit R34 GT-T and you are done.

Have had one for 7 years and love it to death.

What the guy above said. That's what I'm running in my r34 GTT, awesome clutch, never going back to plain exedy unless it's modified... Had a exedy cushion button clutch behind 220kw and the thing failed after 2000kms.

2 hours ago, Dyzzii said:

Is there a way I can contact them without phoning? As i'm unfortunately in New Zealand. If so I may flick them an email and see if they can arrange shipping one over! Appreciate the advice guys!

Doesn't new Zealand have phones? Or is the massive time difference the issue?

  • Like 1
7 minutes ago, Ben C34 said:

Doesn't new Zealand have phones? Or is the massive time difference the issue?

When talking overseas it's not pleasant for either party to have a solid 3-4 second delay before anything said is received by the other person. Makes the entire process a pain. I managed to find their website and email them, but appreciate the remark nonetheless

5 hours ago, Dyzzii said:

When talking overseas it's not pleasant for either party to have a solid 3-4 second delay before anything said is received by the other person. Makes the entire process a pain.

Um....it's not 1975 any more.  There is no perceptible delay on international calls, regardless of whether you use a landline, a mobile, skype on your computer or a payphone.  Hell, I routinely dial into 20 way phone conferences based in places like Minnesota from my home phone, mobile or computer, from motels and airports on wi-fi and all other sorts of crap, and there's not enough delay to cause any angst.

Also +1 for buy Nismo twinplate, job done, forever. Will obviously bolt up to the standard R34 configuration :p.

You can buy a clutch rated for 309kw when you have 300kw, or you can get one rated for 450+kw when you have 300kw. The Nismo twinplate is easier to drive than everything else listed here.

It is also more expensive. ?

You can buy a single plate clutch to hold 320KW at any brake and clutch shop. I got an Exedy heavy duty clutch and its fine. Or if you want a Nismo twin plate they are available in all the main centres or buy direct from Japan

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • What are we supposed to be seeing in the photo of the steering angle sensor? The outer housing doesn't turn, right? All the action is on the inside. The real test here is whether or not your car has had the steering put back together by a butcher. When the steering is centred (and we're not caring about the wheel too much here, we're talking about the front wheels, parallel, facing front) then you should have an absolutely even number of turns from centre to left lock and centre to right lock. If there is any difference at all then perhaps the thing has been put back together wrongly, either the steering wheel put on one spline (or more!) off, and the alignment bodged to straighteb the wheel, or the opposite where something silly was done underneath and the wheel put back on crooked to compensate. Nut there isn't actually much evidence that you have such a problem anyway. It is something you can easily measure and test for to find out though. My money is still on the HICAS CU not driving the PS solenoid with the proper PWM signal required to lighten the load at lower speed. If it were me, I would be putting either a multimeter or oscilloscope onto the solenoid terminals and taking it for a drive, looking for the voltage to change. The PWM signal is 0v, 12V, 0V, 12v with ...obviously...modulated pulse width. You should see that as an average voltage somewhere between 0V and 12V, and it should vary with speed. An handheld oscilloscope would be the better tool for this, because they are definitely good enough but there's no telling if any cheap shit multimeter that people have lying around are good enough. You can also directly interfere with the solenoid. If you wire up a little voltage divider with variable resistor on it, and hook the PS solenoid direct to 12V through that, you can manually adjust the voltage to the solenoid and you should be able to make it go ligheter and heavier. If you cannot, then the problem is either the solenoid itself dead, or your description of the steering being "tight" (which I have just been assuming you mean "heavy") could be that you have a mechanical problem in the steering and there is heaps of resistance to movement.
    • Little update  I have shimmed the solenoid on the rack today following Keep it Reets video on YouTube. However my steering is still tight. I have this showing on Nisscan, my steering angle sensor was the closest to 0 degrees (I could get it to 0 degrees by small little tweaks, but the angle was way off centre? I can't figure this out for the life of me. I get no faults through Nisscan. 
    • The BES920 is like the Toyota Camrys of coffee machines. E61 group head is cool, however the time requirements for home use makes it less desirable. The Toyota Camry coffee machine runs twin boilers and also PID temp control, some say it produces coffees as good as an E61 group head machine.
    • And yes with a full tank it will hit limiter free revving or driving 6B6CDF6E-4094-426D-A9CB-6C553475FE36.mp4
    • One way of putting the fuel surge idea to rest, is that even when in neutral/clutch in or free revving it still has the same issue, it can’t even get to limiter (7800) so to me that says it can’t be g force, I’m not trying to argue I just want to find the f&$king issue 😡
×
×
  • Create New...