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Death Wobble R34 Gtt. Pls Help!

Rychiie
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Posted
Posted

Maybe slip the belt off the power steering pump and see if it stops to check the pump.

Its shaking alot for steering could also be a missalignment in the steering, probably the steering wheel to steering rack or rear toe causing the hicas to spaz out trying to do its job. See if ya can pull a fuse out for hicas to stop it and see.

Check steering rack mounts and rubbers.

Check k frame bolts

If not steering ive had some bad shakes 9ver my years driving all different cars from missfires (plugs/ leads /coil & packs) , torque converter and flywheel issues, unis , tail shaf issues, timing belt zorst issues,.....ect.

Because it shakes at a stand still that narrows it down a bit.

Good luck mate.

  • Like 1
Rychiie Apprentice

Rychiie

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Posted (edited)

I've had the power steering system flushed and bled out the air. Before I bought the car there was very low fluid in the power steering. Do you guys think the problem could be the power steering pump itself?

Edited by Rychiie
Slap Rising Star

Slap

Posted
Posted

To many variables not enough background for an internet based answer.

 

Take the ps belt off and see if it stops.

If it does stop it could be pump/rack/lines/fluid type/belt tension.

 

If no then its probably hicas spaz (pull out the fuse to lock it straight) or loose rack or similar if its steering related.

 

If its not then look else where.

 

In the video it sounded to me like it was running on 4-5 cylinders but i did watch it quietly. Maybe its just the shaking making it sound that way.

 

 

 

  • Like 1
Slap Rising Star

Slap

Posted
Posted

If the back wheels are shaking enough it could shake the front wheel while on the stands or even possibly sending feedback through the lines if the pump is weak.

HICAS has no ability to make the front rack move. It won't be that.
My money is on the pump and/or rack being in a bad state from running dry.
I believe it to be the rack or pump.

Ever herd of possibility or possibilities?

They can happen.
NEO25T Collaborator

NEO25T

Posted
Posted

Hicas is electric on the rear of a 34.

Mine had an air lock and shook like that, going from lock to lock on the stands made it better but had to sit it on the ground  and do it again for some time before it went away.

My car only goes for short periods so may have this problem next time it runs again.

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  • 4 years later...
GoHashiriya Community Regular

GoHashiriya

Posted
Posted

 

1 hour ago, Mick Dean said:

So, my 34 is doing this now. Did you manage to resolve the issue? By the way I no longer even have hicas. 

 

I had this issue - albeit less severe - during tight low speed corners and very, very, occasionally at idle. I could feel it through fast sweeping corners if the engine speed was low enough. My PS fluid was old - like piss, you could say - so I replaced it which essentially fixed the problem. However, the rack was leaking quite significantly so I replaced the rack anyway, as I'm in Japan and the racks are cheap.

First port of call is to replace/top up the fluid.    

  • Like 1
  • 1 month later...
Mick Dean Rookie

Mick Dean

Posted
Posted

Ok so I have finally sorted the issue. Just a recap for anyone searching this in the future and if the above video doesn't work, the steering wheels were basically just chattering back and forth totally out of control all on its own. I put my car on my hoist and started it and the steering went crazy. So after alot of unsuccessful researching and a few trips to steering specialists it turned out to be the star shaped nut at the back of the rack know as the "preload adjustment". I initially tightened it creating heavy steering and also accentuated the shudder so I loosened it an 1/8 of the rotation from the stock position. This solved the shudder and the heavy steering completely. I recommend marking the stock position prior to messing with it and don't forget it has a lock nut that needs to be nipped back up after. This is something you could probably do without jacking the car at all. A 12" shifter will do the lock nut and a 1/2" ratchet drive will fit in the star nut to adjust it. In my searches I saw alot of people experience lose or sloppy steering so naturally tightening this nut will help with that.

  • Like 2
joshuaho96 Veteran

joshuaho96

Posted
Posted
On 7/12/2023 at 7:35 PM, Mick Dean said:

Ok so I have finally sorted the issue. Just a recap for anyone searching this in the future and if the above video doesn't work, the steering wheels were basically just chattering back and forth totally out of control all on its own. I put my car on my hoist and started it and the steering went crazy. So after alot of unsuccessful researching and a few trips to steering specialists it turned out to be the star shaped nut at the back of the rack know as the "preload adjustment". I initially tightened it creating heavy steering and also accentuated the shudder so I loosened it an 1/8 of the rotation from the stock position. This solved the shudder and the heavy steering completely. I recommend marking the stock position prior to messing with it and don't forget it has a lock nut that needs to be nipped back up after. This is something you could probably do without jacking the car at all. A 12" shifter will do the lock nut and a 1/2" ratchet drive will fit in the star nut to adjust it. In my searches I saw alot of people experience lose or sloppy steering so naturally tightening this nut will help with that.

I'm surprised setting preload can be done on the car, factory service manual procedure has a specified measurement method for it and it looks like it has to be done with the rack out of the car. I had a tiny, tiny seepage coming from that adjustment and I ended up just ignoring it because I didn't want to mess with the adjustment at all.

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted
3 hours ago, joshuaho96 said:

I'm surprised setting preload can be done on the car, factory service manual procedure has a specified measurement method for it and it looks like it has to be done with the rack out of the car. I had a tiny, tiny seepage coming from that adjustment and I ended up just ignoring it because I didn't want to mess with the adjustment at all.

You probably can't do it reliably. But you can either;

a) get lucky and somehow get it right, or

b) get it wrong and not notice.

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