Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Guys

I own a 1997 R33 GTST S2. Recently had a opportunity to fill up the tank and reset the km's

Tank is now empty and Ive done 300km! That is terrible economy. I know its a skyline and i didnt buy it for its thriftiness of fuel but 300km?

Ive heard people doing 450-500 on a tank , this seems to thirsty for me

- Done the 100k service
- Replaced fuel filter
- Replaced o2 sensor
- Havnt been flogging it

What else could cause my economy to be this bad even after I have done the above?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/478598-fuel-problems/
Share on other sites

How have you established the tank is empty? You could have heaps left.

What you now need to do is fill up and figure out the actual consumption, not some random guess based on a 20yr old fuel gauge..

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/478598-fuel-problems/#findComment-7915334
Share on other sites

I get pissed off when mine is worse that 13, driving in heavy stop start traffic. R32 with Neo25DET. It has been running 11s lately.

Heavy fuel consumption is very easy to achieve. Launch it, rev it, drive it around in 3rd when you should be in 5th. Pump the throttle up and down so that you never maintain a steady speed (like 95% of the morons on the road). All these things will make a Skyline suck the juice.

Then there's the mechanical issues listed above.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/478598-fuel-problems/#findComment-7915363
Share on other sites

13 hours ago, Jarvojj said:

I did run it dead empty because I ran out of fuel half away down the road, I rolled it down the hill into the petrol station.

Hang on when did you put in 50L? Had it run out of petrol then too? I am sure your tank should hold more than 50L

Unless you are planning to run it empty again you should fill your tank to the brim and at some point before you run out fill it again and then calculate your L/100km...you may be doing worse than 16.6 L/100

Jack up each end of the car and spin the wheels to see if any are binding. Check your tyre pressures. Do you accelerate up to traffic lights and stop signs and then jump on the brakes? Is this mainly city stop start traffic?

 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/478598-fuel-problems/#findComment-7915388
Share on other sites

How stock is the car?

my ss crewman gets 12/100 pushed it to 16/100 towing, my 32s 20det is better, and a led foot will equal them.

If you were light footed thats bad economy for stock,

Has it ever been modified or tuned maybe for e85 cause that sound like e85 ks to me?

(Not saying put it in and see)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/478598-fuel-problems/#findComment-7915395
Share on other sites

are you sure you are calculating use properly?

should be fill up and zero trip meter. drive around. fill up and record liters used, look at kilometers traveled then do math.

i get a feeling that's not how you are doing it?

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/478598-fuel-problems/#findComment-7915589
Share on other sites

United.. probably a high ethanol blend 95 or 98.  I smell the ethanol in there 91.

Most 95 and 98 contain no more than 10% . Becarefull  if its special blend 98 it could have more.

The pumps need to state when they contain %10 or less. If they dont who knows how much it was blended to meet the specific octane.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/478598-fuel-problems/#findComment-7915598
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, Ben C34 said:

are you sure you are calculating use properly?

should be fill up and zero trip meter. drive around. fill up and record liters used, look at kilometers traveled then do math.

i get a feeling that's not how you are doing it?

 

And the math is trival. 409.5 km? 50L? The process is 100*50/409.5 = 12.2 L/100km. And that is a perfectly fine consumption rate. More or less exactly what I got on my last tank. Of BP. Never use anything else. Even Shell 98 is not as good.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/478598-fuel-problems/#findComment-7915602
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, Ben C34 said:

are you sure you are calculating use properly?

should be fill up and zero trip meter. drive around. fill up and record liters used, look at kilometers traveled then do math.

i get a feeling that's not how you are doing it?

What worries me is the way he keeps putting 50L in. Does he run it empty and co-incidentally roll in to a service station? I doubt it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/478598-fuel-problems/#findComment-7915604
Share on other sites

I have 300rwkw and I get 9.8l/100km...…..and I know I get this because I drove to the GC and back.  So 2400km, up the Hume then the Pacific with a bit of messing around first in Penrith then in Parramatta before continuing to the GC.

I drove around the GC a bit going to Wally World's etc, then when I came home I went through to Lismore then up to Tenterfield and back through the west of NSW [Tamworth, Dubbo, Forbes, Young etc].

So not a lot of traffic [but still some], and mainly highway cruising 100 to 120km/h.  Climate control was on, it was warm but not stinking hot.  I reckon if you can't do that with a well set up mildly tuned Gtst then you need to do some navel gazing.

I do have WMI....not sure if this makes a difference though cos I only used 2.5 litres for the whole trip.

Biggest single distance was something like 519km between fills....but that's from memory, I didn't log it.  It was over 500 guaranteed.

 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/478598-fuel-problems/#findComment-7915607
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
    • OK, so a bunch of trim needs to come off to get to the rear shock top mounts. Once the seat is out of the way, the plastic trim needs to come off. Remove 2 clips at the top then slide the trim towards the centre of the car to clear the lower clip Next you need to be able to lift the parcel shelf, which means you need to remove the mid dark trim around the door, and then the upper light trim above the parcel shelf. The mid trim has a clip in the middle to remove first, then lift the lowest trim off the top of the mid trim (unclips). At the top there is a hidden clip on the inner side to release first by pulling inwards, then the main clip releases by pulling the top towards the front of the car. The door seal comes off with the trim, just put them aside. The the lighter upper trim, this is easy to break to top clips so take it carefully. There is a hidden clip towards the bottom and another in the middle to release first by pulling inwards. Once they are out, there are 3 clips along the rear windscreen side of the panel that are hard to get under. This is what the rear of the panel looks like to assist:
    • Yes. Autos typically work from the speed sensor on the pinion shaft of the diff. I also think that even if you have a proper speed sensor for the bog manual in the manual box, that the signal it outputs is not compatible with the auto dash anyway. You should consult that manual (the book, not the gearbox).
    • And I just realised that that advice is slightly nonsensical for a GTR, because you need 2 of them. But it is otherwise true.
    • Having had a reasonable look at the car, I'll be able to remove the (one time) rams and retract the hinge (they are held in the down location by a tiny (m3?) sacrificial screw) which will get it physically back in shape. From there if you remove the rams you need a resistor to turn off the airbag light (as Mark said, there are plug in kits and I might go that way because its reversible). And...per all the threads on here, even if you have the resistors to turn off the airbag light, the bonnet light will stay on as it writes to the airbag computer history - that is either replace the airbag controller, reprogam the EPROM (if I can work out how), or remove the globe from the dash. Having seen how sensitive this system is, if I had my time over I'd pre-emptively remove the rams, even on a road car, because this is all a very unnecessary pain in the arse. Reminds me, time to go and have a look at the Fuga too....
×
×
  • Create New...