Jump to content
SAU Community

CANBUS

blind_elk

By blind_elk,
in Car Audio & Electrical

 Share

Recommended Posts

blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
Posted

I have been converting my 32 to as many LED globes as will fit. I purchased some amber LEDs for the rear indicators (BA15S, 1156), but they caused to indicators to rapid flash (like when a globe somewhere is blown). I then purchased some advertised as CANBUS-compatible, but they also rapid flash.

Is there a way to confirm if the LED is in fact CANBUS-compatible (construction, watts, multimeter, etc)?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/478851-canbus/
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...
niZmO_Man Grand Master

niZmO_Man

Posted
Posted

You can try to find a flasher relay that's "LED compatible", or run load resistors (half defeats the purpose IMO).

I got some Philips resistors if you're interested (I bought TapTurn relay).

CANbus is for newer cars that would throw an error light if a bulb was out.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/478851-canbus/#findComment-7917685
Share on other sites
West Grand Master

West

Posted
Posted
On 10/5/2019 at 9:11 AM, blind_elk said:

I have been converting my 32 to as many LED globes as will fit. I purchased some amber LEDs for the rear indicators (BA15S, 1156), but they caused to indicators to rapid flash (like when a globe somewhere is blown). I then purchased some advertised as CANBUS-compatible, but they also rapid flash.

Is there a way to confirm if the LED is in fact CANBUS-compatible (construction, watts, multimeter, etc)?

https://automotivesuperstore.com.au/aerpro-ledres

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/478851-canbus/#findComment-7917761
Share on other sites
  • 8 months later...
blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Further to my problem, I have done the same to my N16Pulsar. I got some "canbus" LEDs, fitted one to the front left, and everything works fine. So then replaced the right side, and it hyper flashes! WTF!

Anyone got an explanation?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/478851-canbus/#findComment-7933415
Share on other sites
blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Yes, finally resolved myself to the need to modify the system. Only ever purchased units "guaranteed" not to hyperflash. Jaycar have flasher units, FYI.

So, where is the flasher can in aR32? Anyone know where the can is in a N16 Pulsar (1.8DE)?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/478851-canbus/#findComment-7933821
Share on other sites
blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I am sooooo glad Nissan make these cars so easy to work on and replace parts that break down.

Pretty much pulled the entire instrument panel apart, cannot for the life of me locate the relay (can hear it, just can't find it!).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/478851-canbus/#findComment-7933857
Share on other sites
blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Well, I've solved one problem - when I arm / disarm the alarm, only the LH indicators flash. Found the (smashed) fuse, and replaced it.

But now I have a bigger problem - NO indicators OR hazards! So I know the return circuits are ok, because the lights come on with the alarm arm /disarm. But because I have no hazards  /indicators, I can't trace the relay sound.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/478851-canbus/#findComment-7934005
Share on other sites
blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
  • Author
Posted

All solved.

Reason everything suddenly stopped - I somehow unplugged the connector to the back of the hazard switch!

Indicators work fine with a replacement flasher designed for LEDs - SY4018, $14.95 from Jaycar Electronics. (in the "auto" section, not the electronic parts section)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/478851-canbus/#findComment-7934299
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Latest Posts

    • Kapr
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Kapr · Posted

      Ok i will get those 310mm. I found one but on a different site. This is the description on those...is it ok? Technical parameters: - Axle: front. - Disc type: ventilated. - Number of holes: 5. - Disc diameter: 310mm. - Total height with center: 54mm. - Thickness (new/min.): 30/28mm. - Designed for brake calipers manufacturer: Sumitomo.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • GTSBoy
      R32 GT-R: 4WD Light Turns On After Bumps – Code 19 (ETS Motor) But No Issues Found

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Bireley_32
      R32 GT-R: 4WD Light Turns On After Bumps – Code 19 (ETS Motor) But No Issues Found

      By Bireley_32 · Posted

      Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
×
×
  • Create New...