Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

This questions might be stupid but when driving with a rb26 (r33 gtr), how much do I need to care about revs, fast throttle let off and stuff like this. 

My car has around 380 crank hp and 310 whp. (Bigger injectors, twin plate clutch, stock boost)

Of course regular maintenance is done :)

BR

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/479185-how-careful-driving-a-rb26/
Share on other sites

As long as it is warm but not overheating, oil pressure is right and the tune is good, you should do everything to it, all the time, except hit the rev limiter more than briefly.

If you are doing track work on good tyres, oil surge causing loss of oil pressure can be an issue.

If your tune is not right for your fuel octane, or you have a fuel system problem (failing pump, pump wiring, clogged injectors, failing regulator) it could ping and melt a piston (keep an ear out for that, it is a distinctive "rock in a tin can noise")

If your timing belt, and the idler and tensioner bearings have not been replaced every 100,000, do so ASAP.

If it is misfiring, stop pushing it and sort out the problem (many causes)

If it uses oil between changes (I'd suggest every 5-10,000klm depending on what you use and how you treat it), start saving for a rebuild (head and/or bottom end)

  • Like 1
36 minutes ago, Duncan said:

As long as it is warm but not overheating, oil pressure is right and the tune is good, you should do everything to it, all the time, except hit the rev limiter more than briefly.

If you are doing track work on good tyres, oil surge causing loss of oil pressure can be an issue.

If your tune is not right for your fuel octane, or you have a fuel system problem (failing pump, pump wiring, clogged injectors, failing regulator) it could ping and melt a piston (keep an ear out for that, it is a distinctive "rock in a tin can noise")

If your timing belt, and the idler and tensioner bearings have not been replaced every 100,000, do so ASAP.

If it is misfiring, stop pushing it and sort out the problem (many causes)

If it uses oil between changes (I'd suggest every 5-10,000klm depending on what you use and how you treat it), start saving for a rebuild (head and/or bottom end)

Thanks so much for that info.

Helps me a lot. Btw i have the power fc installed, how high should i set the rev limiter? Any suggestions?

6 hours ago, fatz said:

If you are America (or wear a Gucci man purse in Australia) and like to sit in car parks in neutral banging the limiter for flames...they don’t like that

 

Haha no im not that type xd livin in europe (austria) my only goal is to keep that car healthy ✔

  • Like 1
5 hours ago, joshuaho96 said:

Don't bounce off the rev limiter, do a gentle warm-up of the engine, wait ~5-10 seconds for idle to stabilize after cold start and don't exceed ~50% throttle or 3000 RPM until coolant is over 70C. 

Thanks

4 hours ago, djr81 said:

8000rpm.

Seems a bit high or not?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Why are people so insistent on making dirty water?!
    • Fark what are the changes of that snapping like that, clean. Nek minnit, custom radiator goes in, with built in oil cooler like those discontinued PWR ones from yesterdeacades ago
    • I thought I'd do a write up on an auto transmission fluid change for a the nissan 7 speed Automatic. At some stage the genius engineers decided that the fluid in the trans was "for the life of the transmission", (which seems kind of self supporting to me) and removed the dip stick and fill tube (funnily enough there is still a casting for it). Anyway, for this job you do need 2 specialist tools in addition to regular hand tools, jack and good chassis stands. You need a way to pump fluid up to the transmission; I got one of these but there are plenty of other options: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/364584087070 Don't trust the generic listing though, it does not come with the required adapter for the Nissan 7 Speed. You need one of these, can't do the job without it: https://navarapart.com.au/product/genuine-nissan-patrol-y62-d23-np300-navara-re7-dipstick-fill-connector1 You need a heap of compatible transmission oil. Could be Nissan, could be anything else rated for Nissan Matic S. You need at least 10 litres, I had 15 to give it a better flush... Also, you need some biiig oil catch trays, at least one of these, or bigger if possible (volume was fine, size was very marginal): https://autobarn.com.au/ab/Autobarn-Category/Tools-%26-Garage/Specialty-Tools/Oil-Service/Garage-Tough-Oil-Drain-Pan-Black-16L---GT1068/p/TO03191 Finally, a measuring jug is very useful if your pump does not have volumes marked on it, I got a 6l one: https://www.repco.com.au/oils-fluids/fluid-accessories/measuring-jugs/penrite-measuring-jug-6l-pmj006/p/A5322648 Oh, and gloves.....this stuff is horrible (not as bad as diff oil, but getting there) ....First, jack up your car.....
    • So I mentioned the apprentice, @LachyK helped take the bonnet off. We just undid the nuts on the hinges and unclipped the gas struts, then pulled the bonnet back a little as the front was catching on the front bar.  I had a good look at everything today and have removed the rams, repaired/reset the hinges and bolted it back together like it never happened. I'll do a separate write up on the repair, and I also removed the poppers from the Fuga today too to save grief down the road.....as said above it is at least $5k to repair retail. I'm also happier about my ability to prepare a race car, and less happy about Nis-nault's engineering (I can hear @GTSBoy sAfrican Americaning) because the top hose of the radiator didn't slip off.......it snapped clean off. By practice I put the hose clamp hard up against the flare on a neck to make it least likely to ever move (thanks @Neil!). I guess that puts a little more pressure on the end of the pipe as it is further away from the rad, but still, that is pretty shit. I've put it back on for now as there was a fair bit of neck still there, but obviously there is no lip on the neck any more so I don't think I'll track it again until I have a new rad. Speaking of which....more research required. It looks like Koyo makes a standard size radiator in ally which I'll grab in the meantime, but I really want something thicker so might have to go custom in the medium term (ouch) Coolant still needs a refill and I have the pressure tester on it over night, but other than a wash down of the engine bay it seems alright. And @MBS206 noted something noisy on the front of the engine and I think I agree....time for a new accessory belt and tensioners I think.
    • our good friends at nismo make a diff for it, I have one (and a spare housing to put the centre in) on the way. https://www.nismo.co.jp/products/web_catalogue/lsd/mechanical_lsd_v37.html AMS also make a helical one, but I prefer mechanical for track use in 2wd (I do run a quaife in the front, but not rear of the R32)
×
×
  • Create New...