Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

New to R33 world (loving it btw) however ive run into an issue i feel i kinda know what the problem is but want to get more information/advice.

So anywho i got my R33 a few months ago all was good and i bought the car stock i bought hard piping and a FMIC uprated radiator my turbo seals then blew out so replaced the turbo but since replacing the turbo i can't keep my idle stable it seems to stay around 1.5 - 2k and and lower about 1k seems like a misfire. Also when im driving and i dip the clutch the counter just shoots down to 0 and stalls so have to re engage a gear while rolling to start again.

Some things ive checked

Idle screw (AAC) all the way in pretty much (taken apart and cleaned)

Replaced spark plugs

TP Sensor (replaced brand new) set at 0.45v idle 4.11v full throttle

Re-solder MAF Sensor

Checked for air and vaccum leaks found nothing (only sprayed with brake cleaner to check) 

Now the only thing thats left on my head is that the *stock* BOV is blanked off and is venting to atmosphere of course to make the famous sound we all love however i feel like thats my problem with the air blowing back though the MAF giving a false reading could i be thinking right here??

Also found logged fault codes

43 - Throttle position circuit

12 - MAF sensor circuit (air flow meter)

21 - Ignition circuit

 

Thanks in advance

 

 

 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/479402-97-r33-cutting-out/
Share on other sites

6 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

At an internet mechanic guess, sounds like you've forgotten to block of the BOV return back into the intake pipe when you installed your whoosh valve.

It has been blocked off woth a metal plate between j pipe and stock bov

Everything with my rb25 is perfect and it runs normal but Ever since i put  a greddy replica BOV i’ve been stalling\dying at weird times with no load when clutching in too.....it doesnt happen often but i think our problem may be the bov’s that vent to atmoshpere. But then even if its that why doesnt the million other people with aftermarket bov’s have this problem ?

1 hour ago, Dil-Dog said:

Everything with my rb25 is perfect and it runs normal but Ever since i put  a greddy replica BOV i’ve been stalling\dying at weird times with no load when clutching in too.....it doesnt happen often but i think our problem may be the bov’s that vent to atmoshpere. But then even if its that why doesnt the million other people with aftermarket bov’s have this problem ?

Because they don't run air flow meters?

  • Thanks 1
  • 2 weeks later...
On 22/12/2019 at 7:20 AM, Dil-Dog said:

Everything with my rb25 is perfect and it runs normal but Ever since i put  a greddy replica BOV i’ve been stalling\dying at weird times with no load when clutching in too.....it doesnt happen often but i think our problem may be the bov’s that vent to atmoshpere. But then even if its that why doesnt the million other people with aftermarket bov’s have this problem ?

So... car ran fine before. You changed a part, then car immediately runs shit. Do you revert what you did to see if it fixes the issue?

 

Oh and those people running vented BOVs have aftermarket ECUs.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi GTSBoy, Excuse my ignorance but what does a "Bad" Knee point mean ? 
    • HFM BM57 has a "bad" knee point, IIRC. It's not the same thing as the later R chassis MC.
    • The ATTESSA is functionally identical to R34; there were a bunch of JDM models that continued ATTESSA including Fuga/Q70, Skyline/Q50, Cima etc as an option. All with Auto only and I think mostly for snow regions. AFAIK there were no AWD VR30DDTT sold in Australia - it is on my to do list to check regs for racing a LHD car in Targa/ATR/AASA/CAMS events because if I can get the auto to work it would be interesting to run a 4wd car The Ecuteck TCM tuning is the same model as their ECU tuning, they already have it for R35 and Dose's favourite, BMW. You buy "points" to allow your computer to be tuned, buy either a bluetooth (phone app) or bluetooth+USB+Key (phone and PC) dongle, and pay for a tune that will be locked to your tuner ( ). You can also access the tuning software yourself but 1. it is mega expensive and 2. these computers have a billion parameters that intersect, so how could you ever spend enough time on it to get a decent result.
    • Or, is it a case of what it is like owning an R series Skyline? NFI what the previous owner has done or fiddled with... Ha ha ha After reading through this thread, I went on a bit of a research about the Q50/Q60. Now I'm quite intrigued by them! Is the AWD in them more like a WRX where it's always AWD, or is it more like the ATTESSA in the GTRs? By the sound of this TCU tuning, this sounds like a case of someone has made some real software for it, and you just need the right piece of hardware, and then you license that specific vehicle/TCU. Or is this a case of the software will be really expensive so only a few tuners have it, and you still have to pay a license per vehicle?
    • By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
×
×
  • Create New...