Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

What do you mean "conversion"? Are you talking about using original panels? You do realise that the R32 and the R34 are completely different shapes, right? You won't be able to stitch the rather vertical sided guards of the 34 onto the somewhat more curvy rear half of the R32 guards.

Any such conversion you have seen done before (like the S15 onto S13 strawberry face conversion) involves complete replacement panels in fibreglass. Not steel stitched to steel.

I'm not saying it is impossible, but it is not something you just "do". This would be a massive custom bodybuilding exercise to be undertaken by a skilled panelbeater.

31 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

What do you mean "conversion"? Are you talking about using original panels? You do realise that the R32 and the R34 are completely different shapes, right? You won't be able to stitch the rather vertical sided guards of the 34 onto the somewhat more curvy rear half of the R32 guards.

Any such conversion you have seen done before (like the S15 onto S13 strawberry face conversion) involves complete replacement panels in fibreglass. Not steel stitched to steel.

I'm not saying it is impossible, but it is not something you just "do". This would be a massive custom bodybuilding exercise to be undertaken by a skilled panelbeater.

Most likely using the rear half of the r32 fender and blending the r34 front half to it but that’s why I’m asking... If I have to make a custom fiberglass fenders that’s not a issue. Thanks for the input but I’m looking for actual experience on the topic. I get that it could be a little bit more work than a r32 core support replacement and that’s no problem either. I have time. 

So, did you search? More than 20 years of actual stuff on this forum alone.

viz.

Most of these use plastic.

https://www.google.com.au/search?q=r32+with+r34+front&tbm=isch&source=univ&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjkuNjK6PLmAhUFxzgGHRi9CcYQsAR6BAgGEAE&biw=1779&bih=888

 

Edited by GTSBoy
7 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

So, did you search? More than 20 years of actual stuff on this forum alone.

viz.

Most of these use plastic.

https://www.google.com.au/search?q=r32+with+r34+front&tbm=isch&source=univ&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjkuNjK6PLmAhUFxzgGHRi9CcYQsAR6BAgGEAE&biw=1779&bih=888

 

Yes most are a dead end or not the way I’m doing this conversion. 

Edited by Chris D
14 minutes ago, niZmO_Man said:

Bee*R did it like a decade ago.

https://www.rhdjapan.com/bee-r-b324r-full-swap-kit-skyline-r32.htm

 

What's so special about your project? You want to blend the two panels together? Cool. Let us know how you go.

Yes they did but they used the r32 core support.

Which suspension do you propose to use? The upper arm mounts to the inner guard are totally different between 32 and 34. If you're talking about using 34 radiator support panel, then it only makes sense to use the inners as well. And then you're forced to use 34 suspension. Not that that's a bad thing, as it is much better than the 32. But you're talking about major surgery of both the inners and outers.

3 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

Which suspension do you propose to use? The upper arm mounts to the inner guard are totally different between 32 and 34. If you're talking about using 34 radiator support panel, then it only makes sense to use the inners as well. And then you're forced to use 34 suspension. Not that that's a bad thing, as it is much better than the 32. But you're talking about major surgery of both the inners and outers.

I don’t plan on messing with any of that. I’m gonna swap on the 32 core support with the 34. I’m sure there will be some fab work to get it on.  I only have the front nose not the whole front clip. 

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah agreed, you can't assume that shop are they only people who ever had to work on it. It was just a guess on the mods based on how things were done back then. You can check the Air Flow Meters by the part number on their tags, they are likely either Z32 or Nismo ones (both read about the same but the Z32 one is a little larger while nismo is stock size but supports the higher airflow like a Z32). And yes, all that would get you to 450hp / 340kw To tell what is happening with the turbos, you want a photo of the tag on the core, that will say what it was made out of  (they can retain the front and rear covers to make the plumbing easier)  
    • I'm selling my personal race car. 1992 BNR32 Skyline GT-R About eight years ago the engine developed the dreaded low oil pressure problem. I removed it and found the issue. However shortly after I moved half way across the country, moved my work shop, bought a house, got married, then moved my shop again to it's permanent location for the time being. in turn I do not have the time to race this car as it should be. In turn the engine I built for this car will end up in my street car and this car I hope finds a home with someone who can use it to it's full potential. The roll bar was built by Jason Noren Fabricaiton in Pomona California to SCCA and NASA Specs. The car used to compete in redline time attack and global time attack enthusiast class. It also has a fire suppression system.  The car is with me at my workshop in Kyle Texas, USA. Shipping it is no problem, I can personally deliver the car to the port of either Houston or Los Angeles. Any other port depending on where it is may require transport but we can always work that out.   The chassis itself is rust free, rear quarters and under fenders are free of any rust so it's a very solid foundation for anyone who wishes to move forward with it. As posted and at the asking price of $20,000 USD the car includes all of the following;   All OEM Body panels, front fenders, rear bumpers etc.  OEM Nissan Projector headlamps (Pictured N1 lamps were removed) OEM Nismo Side Skirts / Extensions OEM Rear Spats  Front & Rear Subframes are installed car is full roller Rear Subframe has Cusco Camber Arms, Whiteline HICAS Elimination Front Subframe has Whiteline tension rods and whiteline Sway bars w/ endlinks.  Buddy Club N1 Coilovers All chassis wiring and engine wiring is in tact. Attessa System is fully in tact and was functional before engine removal.  BCNR33 GT-R Brembo Brakes F+R with Endless MX72 Plus Pads, DBA Rotors & Stainless Steel Brake lines Billion Racing Radiator Billion Radiator Hoses Fluidyne Engine Oil Cooler Accusump System (trunk Mounted) 5 Speed Transmission w/ Transfer Case F+R Prop-shafts Rear Differential With rear Axles.  Nismo Gauge Cluster Nismo Clutch + Flywheel   Essentially what is needed to make this car running and driving again is as follows: A working Engine, an ECU, and time to put it together. The price posted is or best offer as I am willing to remove some components to accommodate price to a certain extent. If any serious buyer wants full detailed pictures, videos, or any questions I'll be happy to answer them. I believe this car is priced to move quickly considering it's a rust free and very straight chassis but always open to fair negotiation.  I can be contacted via phone or email. (+19517081648) email is [email protected]   
    • So...to my (and my mechanics doing the swap) surprise...the oil pan from NEO engine does not fit 100% and needs to by modified like this: It is not a huge problem but in the future i want a "proper" oil pan. So question is...what different oil pan can i get to fit without any problems and modification? Thanks! 
    • Some more info I found.  These are the last entries Yoshikiyo Fujii made on his blog before he passed away in 2009: http://blog.livedoor.jp/fujii_dynamics/ And finally this is where the workshop was situated:  https://maps.app.goo.gl/HhTPtHzt3WVcBTiEA  
    • shit boxes, kids, and daily drivers are all welcome
×
×
  • Create New...