Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi everyone need any info on the adaptronic modular ECU, just before the end of the year my engine builder installed this ECU in my r34 it was faulty, we sent it back and they replaced it with another one, the second ECU was installed and that to was faulty to, has anyone experienced problems with this product or herd of anyone that has.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/479555-ecu-problems-on-my-r34-rb25/
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, robin schembri said:

Hi everyone need any info on the adaptronic modular ECU, just before the end of the year my engine builder installed this ECU in my r34 it was faulty, we sent it back and they replaced it with another one, the second ECU was installed and that to was faulty to, has anyone experienced problems with this product or herd of anyone that has.

 

racepace in Bayswater has installed both ECU's and tested both units to be faulty my entire set up is all brand new, I'm at the point where I don't think I want another one and was wondering if anyone had herd of there ECU's being faulty or giving people trouble.

1 hour ago, robin schembri said:

has installed both ECU's and tested both units to be faulty

Yes.....but did they test the 2nd unit BEFORE installing it? If you do Install, then test, and find it broken, you do not know if it was broken on arrival, or f**ked during/after installation. A "brand new" setup is even more likely to break something than an existing wiring setup that was known to work on another ECU.

both ecu's had different issues racepace motorsport know there stuff, they install these units all the time, but since haltech has now bought out adaptronic there seems to be issues poping up.The first ECU was running fine for five days then it had a hissy fit causing all sorts of gremlins, the second ECU had misfire issues when idling and at a certain rev range but everything else seemed to be fine, they even tried it on another car and it did the same thing.i hope someone else can enlighten me on anything they have herd on the grape vine.

Apart from the hassle I presume this is not costing you money? What has Adaptronic got to say?

A Link fan myself but Tao from Hypergear in Campbellfield has been fitting Adaptronics including to R34s with great success. Maybe give him a ring.

there has been a lot of dyno time spent solving the problems which ive been told wont cost me,but the customer service with them is a joke,there is no phone number to contact them and everything has taken way to long, they are now haltech they bought adaptronic out. racepace motorsport contacted them all last week and they didn't even have the decency to return there emails. I was going to go for a link ECU too but was convinced otherwise. Apparently the third ECU is on its way. 

I have heard of someone over at performance forums having issues with a modular ecu when they first came out. The ecu was damaged when it did an auto firmware update. Was sent back to adaptech who proceeded to charge $ to repair it. Customer was not happy to say the least. 

 

Adaptronic support used to be awesome, all my experiences with the previous gen ecu where positive, seems since the takeover things have changed unfortunately.

I asked if they would replace it with one of there haltech units they said yes, but they wouldn't refund the cost of the dyno. So it looks like number 3 ECU is on its way, what are the odds that three ECUS are faulty. 

The odds are so ridiculously high that 2 adaptronics and a Haltech spontaneously explode that it is way more likely Racepace fked it up bigtime (and caused all 3 to die).


This is also obviously pretty damn unlikely, but it's more likely than 3 ECU's randomly failing instantly. ECU's breaking at all is extremely rare, and almost always due to install error.

Make sure they point to point check every wire on the ECU loom plug before they plug it in and power it up. Check all earths are earths, all powers are powers and no signal/sensor wires have 12V or some other shitty error. Just in case.

I have had dumb arse instro-eleccies kill multiple expensive controllers and flame detectors and other stuff by plugging them in, killing them, then going to the commissioning spares and grabbing another. They eventually fix the wiring problem when they run out of spares.

thanks for that, I don't think my nerves could handle it if this ecu fails,,adaptronic has double checked the unit and passed it to be fault free, it is in transit and should be here by the end of the week.i hope everything goes to plan and I can get my car back after 4 weeks, time will tell, thanks everyone for your input makes me feel a lot better.  

3 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Use a multimeter and check your voltage.

Old Nissans, could have a bad alternator /regulator and voltages could be through the roof and cooking electronics 

 

That could be difficult though.....need to get the engine running first.

19 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

That could be difficult though.....need to get the engine running first.

Sounds like the car "was" running, then after five days these unlisted issues appeared.

Gut internet mechanic feelzzzz say electrical issue.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...