Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The ZF 8HP is getting lots of praise for it's fast shifts, cost, robustness etc. 

A stand alone control unit for one is around 1.5k AUD - http://htg-tuning.com/

8HP-70 through that supplier is 2.4k, and I'd think you could source one cheaper locally (the 70 and 75 variants are used in 3 Series and 5 Series BMW respectively) The models relate to torque ratings but are apparently under rated (fine for my SR, maybe not for your big boy RB setups).

The supplier states the box will fit the s chassis tunnel "needs a little hammerwork to fit into the tunnel, although not extensive, easily doable". 

Given what a Z32 or CD009 conversion will cost, I wonder if this would be a better choice? 

Faster shifts, no mishifts, flappy paddles, ultimately smoother and faster power delivery, it can skip shift, etc.

I would love to one day do WTAC clubsprint and I'm not sure if an auto swap like that is allowed, the rules are unclear (I've emailed them for clarification).

That aside though, I wonder what that would be like - Looks ok in action here? 



 

Edited by ActionDan
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/479630-zf-8hp-conversion/
Share on other sites

That would be pretty cool in my opinion. Certainly it appears to be very well rated in road car formats. 


One interesting note, is the A90 Supra only uses the 8HP51 (rated to 500nm). I would have expected these to be a higher spec especially given the target market of tuners. 

Anything is possible if you throw the required time & money at it, particularly for race car, not road car.

The only big questions will be;

  • Adaption to the engine. Bellhousing will be the least of it. Getting from the crank/fly to the gearbox will likely require 100% custom shit.
  • How much data exchange the TCU will want with the ECU. Will it demand torque management/reduction for shifts, etc? Will you need to fit sensors somewhere that you don't have now? Is your existing ECU even able to talk to the TCU?

As I understand it, the GCU from HGT does all of that though as mentioned I would expect it would want input from the ECU. 

ECU for my car has not been selected yet, but almost certainly Halaltech as that's my tuners preference. 

They had a Video of one in a Mazda3 so they're already being put in non optioned cars. 

As for mating to the engine, yes bellhousing/adapter plate, no different than me using Z32 or CD009 (but I get there's off the shelf solutions for those options and tailshaft etc).

 

Edited by ActionDan
4 minutes ago, ActionDan said:

yes bellhousing/adapter plate, no different than me using Z32 or CD009

Well.....not quite. Torque converter, right? So, flex plate of some sort, choose a torque converter that will do the job and that is suited to the box's input shaft and pump drive, etc. So, quite a lot of fiddling there that is very different to using Nissan manual boxes.

14 minutes ago, ActionDan said:

Would you not stick with the torque convertor the box comes with? I guess that depends on what flex plate options exist. 

I'd suggest that that would be your first choice. There may or may not be more than 1 TC available for the box, as there is more than one engine application. Choosing among these might come down to best match with torque characteristic of the engine, or it might come down to physical size limitations on the max flex plate diameter that you'll have to work with (which might not be an issue at all - just floating possibilities).

3 minutes ago, ActionDan said:

am I stupid in thinking that an Auto could be faster/smoother than the manual options I was looking at?

Not stupid, no. A fast shifting paddle controlled auto is very likely to be substantially faster around a track, even with the same number of gears and same ratios. With 8 closer spaced gears you're likely to have a better choice of gear coming out of every corner than you would in the 5 or 6 speeders. Maybe only slightly better, but still better. How good it all ends up being will come down to how user friendly it is, how snappy the shifts are, etc, which will likely be 100% specific to your implementation. You don't want to be waiting for a full second after flipping an up or down shift for it to happen.

1 hour ago, ActionDan said:

Good thinking. 

I know there are drive  by wire setups for SR so that shouldn't be "crazy".

DBW piss easy to do, just find a TB(bosch 60-84mm, New mustang is 83mm or LS), get a flange made and welded to manifold, Use a z33/v35 accel pedal as it bolts up and wire to ecu (12v, Gnd, 5v, sensor gnd and 2 Position outputs). I have found it heaps better to tune idle too and allows traction/launch control :27_sunglasses:

Even without DBW (which is easy enough and very sexual) you still could use ignition/fuel cut strategies and transient timing decay controls on up/down shifts.

Of course nothing beats proper torque management through timing, throttle position.

ZF box conversion makes my balls tickle, when shift times of 200ms are possible.. why not?

21 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Even without DBW (which is easy enough and very sexual) you still could use ignition/fuel cut strategies and transient timing decay controls on up/down shifts.

Of course nothing beats proper torque management through timing, throttle position.

ZF box conversion makes my balls tickle, when shift times of 200ms are possible.. why not?

gearbox upgrade time for the r33???

42 minutes ago, robbo_rb180 said:

DBW piss easy to do

 

31 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

you still could use ignition/fuel cut strategies and transient timing decay controls on up/down shifts

 

Yes.....my point was around the throttle blipping on downshift. Can only achieve that wit DBW and it's not just a case of checking a box that says "blip the throttle on downshifts". There's some tuning needs to be done to get it right across the different downshifts (singles and doubles from all gears down except first) and across different vehicle speeds (because it's not always the same size rev blip even for the same gear if you're looking to be able to do it at all possible speeds for that gear.

Wasn't saying it's impossible or hard. Just work.

  • Like 1
16 minutes ago, robbo_rb180 said:

gearbox upgrade time for the r33???

Yeah, I've looked into it already, involved the following:

  • Sell R33 to some crazy person who wants to build a R33 but realises it's just better value to buy mine
  • Buy a BMW F30 340i w/ Factory LSD (has B58 motor)
  • Haha 2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Did this end up working? Did you take some pictures?
    • And finally, the front lower mount. It was doubly weird. Firstly, the lower mount is held in with a bracket that has 3 bolts (it also acts as the steering lock stop), and then a nut on the shock lower mount itself. So, remove the 3x 14mm head bolts , then the 17mm nut that holds the shock in. From there, you can't actually remove the shock from the lower mount bolt (took me a while to work that out....) Sadly I don't have a pic of the other side, but the swaybar mounts to the same bolt that holds the shock in. You need to push that swaybar mount/bolt back so the shock can be pulled out past the lower control arm.  In this pic you can see the bolt partly pushed back, but it had to go further than that to release the shock. Once the shock is out, putting the new one in is "reverse of disassembly". Put the top of the shock through at least one hole and put a nut on loosely to hold it in place. Put the lower end in place and push the swaybar mount / shock bolt back in place, then loosely attach the other 2 top nuts. Bolt the bracket back in place with the 14mm head bolts and finally put the nut onto the lower bolt. Done....you have new suspension on your v37!
    • And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done. In my case the BC Racing shocks came assembled for the fronts, but the rears needed to re-use the factory strut tops. For that you need spring compressors to take the pressure off the top nut (they are compressed enough when the spring can move between the top and bottom spring seats. Then a 17mm ring spanner to undo the nut while using an 8mm open spanner to stop the shaft turning (or, if you are really lucky you might get it off with a rattle gun).
    • You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
×
×
  • Create New...