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yeah it is...the third largest connector is the one your looking at, remove it and measure for continuity between terminals 13,14,15,16,17,18,19,20 between .8 and 2.2, the terminals you are focusing on are in pattern. remember you are measuring the harness side not the atessa control unit side. if you have continuity between the connector terminals you need a new control unit. if you don't have continuity you need to measure resistance at terminals 1 2 3 and 4.  this will narrow it down for you without doing any wrenching at all.

@MoMnDadGTR

So this is my results 

13 though to 20 is no continuity 

So I tested 1 2 3 4 

2 and 4 gives me 130

3 And 4 is contunious 

2 and 3 gives me 115

 

I'm so confused how should the numbers be 

You're not supposed to test all of them to all of them. The original linked document clearly says check 13-14, 15-16, 17-18, 19-20.

Expected resistance is between 800 - 2000 ohm.

You do not do this with the multimeter set to continuity. You do it with it set to the appropriate resistance range. Which will either be 2k or 20 k. Try 20k first, as raw accuracy is not important here.

If the circuit is open (infinite resistance) then you have a broken wire, dud sensor, something like that. If the resistance is drastically low, it's either a wiring short or a dud sensor.

You can see the difference between harness faults and sensor faults by measuring at the sensors, as shown in the diagnosis tree.

  • Like 1

@GTSBoy

I just want to clarify I have tested 

13 to 14 15 to 16 and so on with my tester. There is no continuity. 

So my next step would be to test the terminal 1 2 3 and 4. Can you confirm this is correct 

3 hours ago, Semih_Ozdemir said:

13 to 14 15 to 16 and so on with my tester. There is no continuity.

There's not supposed to be "continuity" in the sense of a short circuit. The resistance across those pairs of wires is supposed to be between 800 and 2200 ohms. As measured with the multimeter set to the appropriate resistance scale, probably 20k ohms.

29 minutes ago, Semih_Ozdemir said:

The meter I've got is a fluke multimeter.

It hasn't got the setting to change over to 20k ohm etc.

This cannot be true. The very definition of a multimeter means that it can measure resistance. Fluke is the best brand out there. It is not possible that it doesn't have it.

The red arrow shows you the resistance mode. Flukes are autoranging, so you don't even need to select the 20k range yourself. It will do it for you.

image.png.460063115fcf6cf9614f2dfd1c7eb959.png

correct the multi meter has to have the setting on it looks like a horse shoe. I also can add that when testing for resistance make dam sure you have a good connection in the terminal with a nice sharp end, sometimes you can tie a paper clip to the end of your multimeter probe to get a better connection in the terminal. this is sounding like bad ground, broken wire, something to do with the relocation I believe. let us know when you have done the resistance test on terminals 13-20. then we can narrow down if you need a new control unit or if we need to continue testing

ive always stayed away from relocations and what not to keep diagnostics easier and what not just keeping a simple fast platform. I do feel once the multimeter and you become friends your gunna solve this issue quick.

Okay @GTSBoy I've got a fluke clamp meter. My bad. It only measures continuity and not resistance eith a scale. 

@MoMnDadGTR

I've got 2 sensors of a mate. I'm just going to replace the front right sensor and see if that fixes my issue 

3 minutes ago, Semih_Ozdemir said:

I've got 2 sensors of a mate. I'm just going to replace the front right sensor and see if that fixes my issue

No. Swaptronics is the last resort, not the first.

A useful multimeter is $10 at Jaycar.

4 minutes ago, Semih_Ozdemir said:

I've got a fluke clamp meter

What model? I've never seen one that doesn't do resistance, current, volts, etc.

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