Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

3 minutes ago, Semih_Ozdemir said:

I can't choose for example 20k or what not. 

Yes....but I already posted that Flukes are autoranging, so you don't have to choose 2k or 20k or any other resistance range. But if it has an Omega symbol on the dial, then it can do resistance. And I cannot imagine a Fluke clamp meter that does not have a resistance range.

So what model is it?

 

 

Ahhhhh. Just saw post on previous page.

The continuity range is also resistance. So now we go back to your original reporting on what the sensors were reading. Wait one.

 

Edited by GTSBoy

You reported no continuity on the 13 - 20 wires. I don't trust that. That would require all of them to be dead. Although you do need to report only the 13-14, 15-16 etc pairs.

Get a resistor of known value from your stash of electronics parts and tell us what the Fluke says when you measure it on the cont/res scale. If you don't have a resistor, get an 8 ohm speaker or something and test that.

The 1-2 and 3-4 pairs were not to be tested up at the ATTESA CU either. They were to be tested down at the sensor plugs. So try that too, and report.

If you don’t have good resistance sin the 8-2.2 range, then measure terminal 1,2,3,4 on the harness side. After this is done we will be able to tell if your control unit is faulty or you have a broken wire or bad ground somewhere . I’m starting to think you should try n find a friends control unit and try it.

34 minutes ago, MoMnDadGTR said:

then measure terminal 1,2,3,4 on the harness side

Too vague. By "on the harness side", he means down at the sensor plugs. Because the 13-14, 15-16 etc tests are done on the harness side, up at the CU.

35 minutes ago, MoMnDadGTR said:

I’m starting to think you should try n find a friends control unit and try it.

I always resist this suggestion until it is proven that there are no other faults on the car that could fry your friend's ATESSA box.

3 minutes ago, Semih_Ozdemir said:

I get Infiniti on both when tested at 3ohms and 500ohms setting

The expected resistance is somewhere between 800 ohms and 2200 ohms. That is why i initially instructed you to choose the 20k range on a multimeter, as it will definitely measure and display those sorts of values.

If you try to measure a resistance larger than the range your meter is set to, it will say infinity. So you have to increase the range.

You got open circuit at 19-20, which is one of the rears. You need to find that 4 pin plug and test those pairs too.

@GTSBoy @MoMnDadGTR

Problem is now fixed.

It was a broken cable inside the driver side foot well. I appreciate you guys for helping out. It was a simplem mistake. 

 

Check your wires for future readers

 

Cheers

  • Like 1

Good job buddy. I feeel your pain I was in your shoes many times!, little trouble shooting little grunt and some wire chasing and walla!!! I’m curious to know which wire caused this if you can post a pic m8, glad she’s grippin n rippin again!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 3 Kids are starting to hit that ages. I wanted to get them something special to learn on, put down the screens and have some fun. 4Door 2001 R34DE Black Pearl GV1 Jap Import, AU 2nd owner. Pre Work done. Suspension - Wheels Pedders SportsRyder Coilovers   Wheels TSG Spokey Boi 18'x9.5"+15 Body JASI Aero 4 door Type R Full Kit LED Conversion - Parker, Blinkers, & Reverse Exhaust Hurricane Headers 100 CPI high flow cat 2.5" Piping Cannon muffler Internal Bride low max stradia ii - front seats  Bride RO seat base and Rails (R/H) Cube short shifter LED Conversion - Interior   
    • Why are you so adamant on going M12? Why not follow Brad (GTSBoy) suggestion. You're talking moving from a 1/8" size, to a 1/2" effectively. 4 times bigger. Why skip the commonly available sizes in between? The bigger you go, the more likely you are to strip the threads out at a later date, as guaranteed, someone will put a huge spanner on the M12 and really tighten it up, and you're only in thin wall, so not a lot of threads to engage!
    • Hi. Yeah thanks. Car is already at tuners and it staying there to resolve "many" issues they do not like. So it is in a good hands. Getting a good tune on that Nistune ECU too so the car would be good. Just needs a little tune up and love.
    • Probably gonna remove manifold and turbo. I’m not sure if I can get M12 x 1.5 air tight. Could use high temp Loctite 246 or something similar, but I don’t know. Maybe it’s just best to remove everything again and weld an 1/8NPT on there instead.
    • Yeah, saw the ratios, not impressed. Would like the punch I have in the first gears now. With those ratios it won't be the same.  Also want the h pattern gearing, or at least a quiet gear set that don't need to come apart for service each year. Looks like the only "reasonable" way Is a 8hp70 transmission, but where is the fun in that🤷‍♂️
×
×
  • Create New...