Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

3 minutes ago, Semih_Ozdemir said:

I can't choose for example 20k or what not. 

Yes....but I already posted that Flukes are autoranging, so you don't have to choose 2k or 20k or any other resistance range. But if it has an Omega symbol on the dial, then it can do resistance. And I cannot imagine a Fluke clamp meter that does not have a resistance range.

So what model is it?

 

 

Ahhhhh. Just saw post on previous page.

The continuity range is also resistance. So now we go back to your original reporting on what the sensors were reading. Wait one.

 

Edited by GTSBoy

You reported no continuity on the 13 - 20 wires. I don't trust that. That would require all of them to be dead. Although you do need to report only the 13-14, 15-16 etc pairs.

Get a resistor of known value from your stash of electronics parts and tell us what the Fluke says when you measure it on the cont/res scale. If you don't have a resistor, get an 8 ohm speaker or something and test that.

The 1-2 and 3-4 pairs were not to be tested up at the ATTESA CU either. They were to be tested down at the sensor plugs. So try that too, and report.

If you don’t have good resistance sin the 8-2.2 range, then measure terminal 1,2,3,4 on the harness side. After this is done we will be able to tell if your control unit is faulty or you have a broken wire or bad ground somewhere . I’m starting to think you should try n find a friends control unit and try it.

34 minutes ago, MoMnDadGTR said:

then measure terminal 1,2,3,4 on the harness side

Too vague. By "on the harness side", he means down at the sensor plugs. Because the 13-14, 15-16 etc tests are done on the harness side, up at the CU.

35 minutes ago, MoMnDadGTR said:

I’m starting to think you should try n find a friends control unit and try it.

I always resist this suggestion until it is proven that there are no other faults on the car that could fry your friend's ATESSA box.

3 minutes ago, Semih_Ozdemir said:

I get Infiniti on both when tested at 3ohms and 500ohms setting

The expected resistance is somewhere between 800 ohms and 2200 ohms. That is why i initially instructed you to choose the 20k range on a multimeter, as it will definitely measure and display those sorts of values.

If you try to measure a resistance larger than the range your meter is set to, it will say infinity. So you have to increase the range.

You got open circuit at 19-20, which is one of the rears. You need to find that 4 pin plug and test those pairs too.

@GTSBoy @MoMnDadGTR

Problem is now fixed.

It was a broken cable inside the driver side foot well. I appreciate you guys for helping out. It was a simplem mistake. 

 

Check your wires for future readers

 

Cheers

  • Like 1

Good job buddy. I feeel your pain I was in your shoes many times!, little trouble shooting little grunt and some wire chasing and walla!!! I’m curious to know which wire caused this if you can post a pic m8, glad she’s grippin n rippin again!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Stock ECU (or more accurately stock tune) absolutely refuses to go over 10psi and behaves like you have seen. The Nistune is the same if it is the stock tune. If the Nistune chip has been tuned, the resulting tune could be literally anything for any combination of parts. The Nistune just makes the stock ECU Tunable.
    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
×
×
  • Create New...