Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

This has been covered before but I have read through a bunch of the threads and not found the solution.

I have a rb25det neo.  Hypergear highflowed OP6, Front Mount rtn flow cooler, 1000cc injectors and e85, 3 inch exhaust (no cat).

When tuned the car made 230kw on 14psi but when we added more boost it hit 16psi at 4200 than tapered down to 13psi by 5000rpm and 12psi by 7000rpm.

I've removed all mufflers and have a steel intake pipe.  

If we set the boost control to 18psi it makes 250kw at 4500 rpm then falls to 12 psi and 200kw by 5500rpm.  We think the turbo starts to cavitate.

It doesnt misfire and does everything else perfectly.  Could this turbo just be out of puff?

 

What other common problems cause this? 

Basically, yes. There are some return flow setups that are not as bad, but the majority suffer from the sharp turn and smaller core height. So once the air flow rates get up a bit higher, the pressure drop skyrockets. The pressure drop goes up with the square of flow rate, so once it become significant, it becomes numerically much worse with every small increase in flow.

If you were running that turbo at 24 psi (at the outlet), to get 14 psi at the plenum, then you can see that you're actually working the turbo MUCH harder than it looks. That's why you need to know the data. Because if you're only losing 2 psi over the cooler, then you have to look elsewhere.

6 hours ago, 25GTV said:

What other common problems cause this? 

What psi is your wastegate spring?

If its 7psi and your using 3 port boost control, I'd start there. Anything over double the base pressure is pretty difficult with a 3 port setup. 

Probably the kinugawa actuator, those things are pretty hit and miss. 

I have a 21u hf on my r33. Using a standard actuator with a few mm extra preload controlled by ecu via 3 port mac valve. Easily holds 19psi throughout the rev range, maybe drops .5 - 1 psi at 7k rpm. Also running a shitty return flow cooler. 

You definitely have a problem somewhere, that is not typical behaviour for a Hypergear hf turbo.

  • Like 1

I run a stock GTT actuator and a Turbo Tech valve and have no problems running 20psi dropping to 17/18psi - 280kw

Blitz turnflow cooler and HKS 2535 with the .6 exhaust housing

I'd be swapping the actuator or trying another boost controller

I used another boost controller to monitor the boost at the turbo outlet compared to the manifold.  The turbo hold 20.5psi from 4500 to 7000.  The Manifold sees 16 at 4500 then instantly to 14 psi and 12.5 by 7000rpm.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hello, just just bought an 1999 enr34 with a stock rb25neo and I'm looking to upgrade the engine to 500whp I know some basic things but wondering if there are things I'll need to do to upgrade the stock block and all the bits and pieces to achieve this.
    • Thanks everyone for the replies and suggestions. Got the seats out (hoping I could find some existing grommets but no such luck). By tapping and measuring etc. I could figure out where I could drill through if needed. But first I borrowed an inspection camera and managed to go through factory holes in the chassis rail and could see that the captive nut was holding steady which is why it could retighten. So it was indeed a stripped section of thread, so I applied downforce by levering the bolt head with a screwdriver and went slowly back and forth until it came out. Camera helped a lot cos I could monitor that the captive nut was holding tight. Now I just have one very seized main subframe nut to tackle 😅
    • BOVs do have a purpose, if you ever log pressure before and after the throttle body, you will see a spike pre throttle on lift off from a WOT condition. Enough to bend throttle blades / damage e-throttle motors or simple assist in blowing off cooler pipes. FWIW, the above on really applies to those running at least 2 bar of boost. OP shouldn't have an issue, on the other hand, here are some videos of my shit box over a decade ago with some succulent dose with the airbox on and off. That shit box is unrecognisable these days 🫠    
    • I've tried all different combinations of BOVs/ no BOV and stock bypass valves over the years, on gear changes the stock bypass valve seems to get the car back on boost quicker because in part the turbos wheel speed isn't being slowed down by reversion, although they have issues holding boost much over the stock setting. Most aftermarket BOVs you can adjust the spring, tighter will make it open later and close sooner, but in my experience it'll cause a bit of flutter at low load/rpm anyway. I've also got some input into this whole no bov causing turbo wear, never had an issue on any on my turbos HOWEVER, I got my R33 GTST with 200k kms on it, with from what I can see still has the original turbo, no lateral shaft play but has about 4-5mm of play in and out which to me seems like a worn thrust bearing from years (100-150k kms?) of turbo flutter running no bov, so maybe there is some truth to it in the long run. But that'll never stop me loving the Stutututu while I have the car.   OP just wants to know if he can run a atmo vented BOV with no major issues and the answer is YES, plenty of people do it, there's no harm in installing it and seeing how it runs before spending $$$ on an aftermarket ecu, last time I bought a Nistune it was $2400 for install and a tune , unsure of todays prices but you get me. Crazy money to spend just to fix the minor inconvenience of stalling that can be overcome by letting the revs come down to near idle before putting the clutch in or a little bit of throttle to avoid it. You're better off leaving the ecu and tune for after a bigger turbo/injectors have been installed to take full advantage of the tune and get your moneys worth.   Let OP have his Whoosh sound without trying to break his bank haha
    • I see you missed the rest of the conversation where they have benefits, but nothing to do with avoiding breaking turbos, which is what the aftermarket BOV made all the fan boys, tuners, and modders believe was the only purpose for them...
×
×
  • Create New...