Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Referring to throttle bodies, they are not actually supposed to be taken apart, that's why there is nothing in the manual and you can't buy the individual seals and bearing parts separately from Nissan.

Having said that I have disassembled them before and put a Reimax throttle refresh kit through them, which includes shaft seals and spring locators. Replaced all the bearings and return Springs too.

Basically with the butterfly's removed the shafts have to be removed with a press. Unless there is actually something wrong with them I would advise you against doing it.

  • Like 1

Do you mean the bit that bolts on top of the manifold or the butterfly sections down at each runner?

If its the bit on top I've got one dismantled at the moment.  Of you haven't heard from me in a few days remind me and I'll take some pics. 

5 hours ago, Shoota_77 said:

Do you mean the bit that bolts on top of the manifold or the butterfly sections down at each runner?

If its the bit on top I've got one dismantled at the moment.  Of you haven't heard from me in a few days remind me and I'll take some pics. 

The one on top of the manifold! There's no way i'm taking apart the actual throttle bodies.

5 hours ago, cachorro said:

The one on top of the manifold! There's no way i'm taking apart the actual throttle bodies.

Ok cool. It is a bit tricky but doable. You need to be very careful with the plastic washers each side of the spring as they get very brittle with age. I'll get some photos over the weekend. 

  • Like 1
  • 1 year later...
On 3/12/20 at 3:29 AM, Shoota_77 said:

Ok cool. It is a bit tricky but doable. You need to be very careful with the plastic washers each side of the spring as they get very brittle with age. I'll get some photos over the weekend. 

How did this go guys I’m trying to do it now haha.

On 1/10/2022 at 6:58 AM, Dusty32 said:

How did this go guys I’m trying to do it now haha.

I sent my stuff in to someone more experienced for them to do the entire restoration of the ITBs/manifold. Too much headache for me when I don't have a press or anything at home.

  • 4 weeks later...
On 12/1/2020 at 3:30 PM, BK said:

Referring to throttle bodies, they are not actually supposed to be taken apart, that's why there is nothing in the manual and you can't buy the individual seals and bearing parts separately from Nissan.

Having said that I have disassembled them before and put a Reimax throttle refresh kit through them, which includes shaft seals and spring locators. Replaced all the bearings and return Springs too.

Basically with the butterfly's removed the shafts have to be removed with a press. Unless there is actually something wrong with them I would advise you against doing it.

Any advice for how to fix an ITB that has had its full close stopper slip? My cylinder 5/6 ITB did this and there's basically no way for me to adjust the ITB linkages properly. Really dreading pulling the engine all apart again to fix this.

On 2/6/2022 at 2:16 PM, Shoota_77 said:

@joshuaho96 bravo on your honesty! 🤣🤣

I'm just so glad it came out as a single big wad instead of getting shredded to bits. Genuinely was terrified that I was going to have to pull everything apart again to fix this.

I wanted to say something along the lines of "That could have gone SOOOOOOOOOOOO much worse" but you never know how people react on the internet.

I once found a set of pliers in my airbox I had lost for 18 months.

On 2/6/2022 at 5:01 PM, Kinkstaah said:

I wanted to say something along the lines of "That could have gone SOOOOOOOOOOOO much worse" but you never know how people react on the internet.

I once found a set of pliers in my airbox I had lost for 18 months.

Yeah, I'm just glad my stupidity didn't require me to tear apart my entire intake manifold again. I checked every cylinder after that up to the intake valves to see if any debris had made it into the engine but I didn't see any signs of issues. Took it for a test drive and the car seems to run properly now. Idles properly too, before I could tell the ECU couldn't hit the idle target so it just had the AAC valve perpetually closed in an attempt to hold it around 1050. Now it idles at 950 rpm with about 33% AAC duty cycle.

On 2/6/2022 at 5:06 PM, joshuaho96 said:

Yet another bump because I can't edit my posts. Turns out I'm a huge idiot that left a paper towel in there:

 

The boost rag strikes again.

<Hansel>

My uncle was driving his 2004 TD42 Patrol up a hill. Oil pressure light came on, so he shut it down, got it towed home. Diagnosis revealed few if any clues, so the motor came out and came apart. First, but unrealised at the time, clue was that the oil smelled a bit weird. Sump was full of sheets of paint. WTF?

He's a completely anal OCD type. Has all his washers sorted into micron thickness bins - that sort of OCD. So, he was able to back trace what he'd done. He changes brake fluid every 6 months (as I said, anal OCD type). He therefore had a small quantity of old brake fluid in a 5L engine oil container. When doing the oil change on the Patrol, immediately prior to the trip that lead to the engine death going up hill, he shook the various oil containers and noted one with a little oil in it - which duly got put in the engine before opening a freshy.

Turns out that hot brake fluid is an excellent paint stripper. Took the paint off the inside of the sump and rocker cover in sheets, which plugged the tiny little oil pickup (and would have plugged a huge pickup anyway) and killed the motor. Wrecked a few bearings, so it was rebuild time.

After reassembly and reinstall, during which time every conceivable orifice was plugged with a dedicated plastic/rubber cap/plug or a rag (remember, anal OCD) he got it started but it simply would not rev. All sorts of panic ensued wrt pinched injector lines, damaged injector pump drives, etc etc.

Turns out that the turbo was installed while the engine was upside down, or somesuch arrangement were the secret boost rag that was blocking the turbo outlet wasn't visible, and survived the anal/OCD/surgeon checklist count of implements inside the patient during reassembly.

Boost rag will always get you, even when you are a complete nutcase. He must be losing his touch, as that is 2 terrible mistakes in 1 episode.

</Hansel>

  • Like 3
On 2/6/2022 at 6:26 PM, GTSBoy said:

The boost rag strikes again.

<Hansel>

My uncle was driving his 2004 TD42 Patrol up a hill. Oil pressure light came on, so he shut it down, got it towed home. Diagnosis revealed few if any clues, so the motor came out and came apart. First, but unrealised at the time, clue was that the oil smelled a bit weird. Sump was full of sheets of paint. WTF?

He's a completely anal OCD type. Has all his washers sorted into micron thickness bins - that sort of OCD. So, he was able to back trace what he'd done. He changes brake fluid every 6 months (as I said, anal OCD type). He therefore had a small quantity of old brake fluid in a 5L engine oil container. When doing the oil change on the Patrol, immediately prior to the trip that lead to the engine death going up hill, he shook the various oil containers and noted one with a little oil in it - which duly got put in the engine before opening a freshy.

Turns out that hot brake fluid is an excellent paint stripper. Took the paint off the inside of the sump and rocker cover in sheets, which plugged the tiny little oil pickup (and would have plugged a huge pickup anyway) and killed the motor. Wrecked a few bearings, so it was rebuild time.

After reassembly and reinstall, during which time every conceivable orifice was plugged with a dedicated plastic/rubber cap/plug or a rag (remember, anal OCD) he got it started but it simply would not rev. All sorts of panic ensued wrt pinched injector lines, damaged injector pump drives, etc etc.

Turns out that the turbo was installed while the engine was upside down, or somesuch arrangement were the secret boost rag that was blocking the turbo outlet wasn't visible, and survived the anal/OCD/surgeon checklist count of implements inside the patient during reassembly.

Boost rag will always get you, even when you are a complete nutcase. He must be losing his touch, as that is 2 terrible mistakes in 1 episode.

</Hansel>

I would've just sold the car and called it a day at that point.

  • 2 years later...
On 1/10/2022 at 3:24 PM, joshuaho96 said:

I sent my stuff in to someone more experienced for them to do the entire restoration of the ITBs/manifold. Too much headache for me when I don't have a press or anything at home.

who did you send it too for the restoration? I remember youre in the states?

11 hours ago, kevboost7 said:

who did you send it too for the restoration? I remember youre in the states?

The two people doing this stuff in the US are https://www.instagram.com/resto_daddy/ or https://www.instagram.com/remade_in_usa_/. I went with the latter option but as far as I know both do good work.

8 hours ago, joshuaho96 said:

The two people doing this stuff in the US are https://www.instagram.com/resto_daddy/ or https://www.instagram.com/remade_in_usa_/. I went with the latter option but as far as I know both do good work.

Wow, the latter ones instagram shows amazing work. When you got it back, do you feel like they replaced all the springs and components with new ones? Or they restored the old exisiting ones? 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Does that German restaurant still exist in the old place out the NW end of Goulburn? When I say "out the NW end of"...I am really being vague. It was 1997 when I was last there, and the only point of reference I can recall is that it was on the opposite side of the main drag from the big merino. And when I say "opposite side of the main drag", I don't mean "on the main drag". It was either a couple of streets back from there, or might have even been out in the sticks a bit further. Was an old farm building or mill or somesuch. And when I say "the big merino" I might actually be thinking of a completely different part of town, because I just looked on maps and the big bugger is not where I remembered him to be! The food was good, consisting largely of various German mystery-meat sausage/loaf things and kartofflen.
    • So while the second sentence is completely correct and the whole point of the conversation, the first sentence bears consideration. If this bloke is just hoping to throw big turbos on and drive it around, because there are no helpful facilities at all in his tropical paradise** then he likely has zero chance of even knowing what the TP is on the last column in the stock maps, let alone know whether the ECU is operating anywhere near it or past it. So the point is very very moot. And, per what I said before, at stock boost on those turbos, you may well be off the end of the map. **I'm just back from Vanuatu, so I know exactly what small Pacific nations can be like wrt paradise without requisite facilities. But it's not even that simple. I put a high flow on my car and had to drive it around with a proper tune because of the lack of opportunity*** to put the bigger AFM and injectors into it to allow it to be tuned. I had to turn the boost down to less than I had before, and back off the boost controller's ramp, because it was exploring parts of the map that it didn't drive in before, and really couldn't access for tuning on the dyno either, and so was pinging. It was still well within the last column, because when I first**** set up the Nistune on the Neo I rescaled all axes of the maps to give some more space to explore. ***Family dyno was broken ****This was 13 years ago, and the TIM thing wasn't a thing then and so TP would definitely grow when pushing past the stock tune's limits.
    • Yep, this bit another local owner. I caught it before putting the transmission back into the car, what I noticed was the pressure plate fingers weren't flat and even. It's more obvious with the pull style clutch because the throwout bearing ring was visibly not flat once everything is put together. Nismo should really update their instructions to call out this specific detail. I'm not even sure the clutch as-shipped orients everything properly.
    • It ended up being that orientation of the float hub in relation to the clutch disk, when I installed it, I heard a loud click and being stupid, I decided to not take it a part and check it. The hub didn't properly align with the clutch disk and was causing the issue. Definitely an odd one! Dahtone Racing was able to fix me right up, stand up blokes!      
    • Right, but I'm saying on the stock ECU measured airmass from the MAF is no higher than stock. So it's accounting for the higher flow rate iso-manifold pressure. You just have to keep turning down the boost until you're within the stock tune's load scale. If you run off the end there's no telling what will happen. This does mean there's zero benefit to the turbos you're running vs stock, if anything it's just a straight downgrade because the transient response is worse, you don't even get the ECU's boost solenoid helping to pull the wastegate closed during initial spool, and peak power is only whatever the factory map can give you before you hit the R&R corner. On a -9 I would bet that you would have to change out the wastegate spring once you have a real ECU and you're tuning it for real. I'm not saying this is a remotely ideal state of affairs, it's just a way to keep it driveable until you can get a proper tune done.
×
×
  • Create New...