Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

15 minutes ago, blind_elk said:

Its an aerofoil for your wiper. Holds the blade onto the glass at speed. (passenger doesn't need to see where you are going, so LHS doesn't have one!)

But the driver needs to see out the passenger side too! I might buy another one since they are the same length anyway

12 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

Or.... you could just go straight for the good ones.

BOSCH-AEROTWIN-WIPER-BLADE-KIT-for-NISSAN-SKYLINE-GTR-BNR32-GTST-R32

I’ve actually got these on my car right now but I’m trying OEM everything, I even bought all the warning/info stickers that I was missing like SRS airbag and ignition timing sticker 

42 minutes ago, Duncan said:

what makes them good? good wipers are relevant to my interest

I bought Tridon or whatever brand equivalents for my Liberty, they wore out to shit after 6 months max.

Bosch aerotwin, same price (around $30 each), lasted well over 3.5 years still wipes like new.

My car sat outside the whole time.

I always recommend Bosch AeroTwin

15 minutes ago, BK said:

Maybe all. But specifically the Bosch patent for theirs is a "wind deflector", for holding blade against windshield.

You used to be able to buy these as plastic clip on additions for standard arms about 30 years ago, then (or possibly before) they started turning up on OEM arms as little deflectors to increase the normal force of the wiper blade on the glass. Intended to stop chatter. This was all with old style conventional multi-element spring type wiper bodies. The deflectors are purely aerodynamic devices for producing force. Not for snow, not for looks (because they look like shit because they make the wiper appear bigger).

The new Bosch aerotwin style is a completely better mechanism for getting the wiper to press onto the glass and has the "aero" part baked into the shape of the whole blade body.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...