Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I’ve done a search but haven’t been able to find anything. Is there anyone on here who understands turbos who would be able to explain the difference in how these turbos would behave / respond compared to one another. 
obviously housings can affect this so let’s compare 

1. 6870 gen 2, 1.0ar T4 divided rear 

2. 6875 gen 2, .96ar T4 rear 

now I know the 6875 is rated a little higher, will it actually make more power and how much will you sacrifice in lag? 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/481617-6870-vs-6875/
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, r32-25t said:

Wouldn’t the compressor maps be the same for the fact they’re the same compressor wheel and housing 

Not sure, on their website says the 68/75 is a more modern design turbine

 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/481617-6870-vs-6875/#findComment-7944123
Share on other sites

53 minutes ago, SiR_RB said:

68mm comp wheel will max out well before the 75 rear 

 

So there would be no reason to go 6875 over 6870? 
this is what I’m trying to find out, I’d like to actually talk to someone who is really switched on with turbos and not tied to any one brand. When I sell my motor I’ll probably let it go with the entire hot side. As my new motor is a 2.7, I’d like a turbo that is responsive, but can still make decent power and give a decent push when turned up. 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/481617-6870-vs-6875/#findComment-7944315
Share on other sites

Why not the 6466 then ? I tossed up going the 6870, then I thought why ? People are making 500 - 600rwkw with them and it will always be more responsive than the 6870, so I went the 1.00a/r 6466.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/481617-6870-vs-6875/#findComment-7944320
Share on other sites

As Bk said, seriously consider the 6466

 

if you have a full house head and a decent rear (1.00+ in size) I have seen the 6466 push 580ish kw and would be an absolute rocket on the street with amazing response with the 2.7

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/481617-6870-vs-6875/#findComment-7944326
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, BK said:

Why not the 6466 then ? I tossed up going the 6870, then I thought why ? People are making 500 - 600rwkw with them and it will always be more responsive than the 6870, so I went the 1.00a/r 6466.

This is what I’m thinking, but I’m also not a Precesion fan boy, so I’d like to know all my options, I’ve heard good things about the Garrett 3584rs, mixed reviews on the new G series, good things about Borg Warner, I’ve also looked at Xona rotor? 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/481617-6870-vs-6875/#findComment-7944327
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, SiR_RB said:

As Bk said, seriously consider the 6466

 

if you have a full house head and a decent rear (1.00+ in size) I have seen the 6466 push 580ish kw and would be an absolute rocket on the street with amazing response with the 2.7

Did 146mph on the 580kw blue line dyno graph

 

have not been back since the tweaking of exhaust setup, also going a CNC Shimless head at the moment and redoing the pipework etc.

 

Keen too see how far we can push the 6466

 

dyno.thumb.jpg.9ff39030b8dd4f21abf51a2759c27089.jpg

 

 

  • Like 2
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/481617-6870-vs-6875/#findComment-7944332
Share on other sites

26 minutes ago, hattori hanzo said:

Did 146mph on the 580kw blue line dyno graph

 

have not been back since the tweaking of exhaust setup, also going a CNC Shimless head at the moment and redoing the pipework etc.

 

Keen too see how far we can push the 6466

 

dyno.thumb.jpg.9ff39030b8dd4f21abf51a2759c27089.jpg

 

 

What size engine is that on?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/481617-6870-vs-6875/#findComment-7944333
Share on other sites

5 hours ago, Old man 32 GTR said:

This is what I’m thinking, but I’m also not a Precesion fan boy, so I’d like to know all my options, I’ve heard good things about the Garrett 3584rs, mixed reviews on the new G series, good things about Borg Warner, I’ve also looked at Xona rotor? 

My problem with the new Garrett turbos is there’s currently no twin scroll option

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/481617-6870-vs-6875/#findComment-7944334
Share on other sites

15 hours ago, SiR_RB said:

What rear is on the 64 mate 

it was .84 with the 146mph

Have since gone 1.15 but did not get any massive changes, have since gone to 4" dump and CNC head to assist unlocking a few more ponies.

goal is 150mph on a 6466

 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/481617-6870-vs-6875/#findComment-7944360
Share on other sites

6 hours ago, hattori hanzo said:

it was .84 with the 146mph

Have since gone 1.15 but did not get any massive changes, have since gone to 4" dump and CNC head to assist unlocking a few more ponies.

goal is 150mph on a 6466

 

What gearbox?

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/481617-6870-vs-6875/#findComment-7944366
Share on other sites

9 hours ago, hattori hanzo said:

it was .84 with the 146mph

Have since gone 1.15 but did not get any massive changes, have since gone to 4" dump and CNC head to assist unlocking a few more ponies.

goal is 150mph on a 6466

 

What boost was that at mate?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/481617-6870-vs-6875/#findComment-7944368
Share on other sites

Had a chat with the guy from Garrett turbos yesterday about turbo options, he recommended the G30 900hp or G35 900, said they would offer good response and solid top end, another option is the G35 1050hp, this turbo is to supersede the 3584rs and will be released in a T4 divided rear housing option in the 1st quarter of 2021. 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/481617-6870-vs-6875/#findComment-7944382
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Waaay ahead of ya....(evil laugh!!) Will show the fitment and spec details later when it isnt as rainy !
    • Thanks Dose.....    I appreciate it!!
    • I'll probably be putting the shit box back on the dyno again soon, I want to dial in the closed loop boost control properly. I'll have a camera facing the car/motor for fun too. Just note, there are essentially 3x 10AN inlets going into the catch can and 1x going back to the intake pipe. Most of the time the catch can "return" to the sump actually is the crank case breather, pushing air out.
    • I have the R3C with a Nismo slave and by no means does it behave like a stocker, it ain’t THAT bad. On take off just give a bit more throttle than you would say a coppermix and it’s fine. It will not slip though.   
    • Okay. Final round of testing done. Got a friend to hook up a fancy scanner to the car and we also ran some compression and leakdown tests, she is healthy.  The MAF was definitely the culprit. So for future reference anyone with similar issues that find this thread. I suggest the following steps, in order of affordability:   Check your spark plugs for any fouling, replace plugs if they are bad or re adjust the gaps making it narrower (0.8mm would be good). Check every coil's resistance with a multimeter. It can be done by probing the IB and G pins on the coil pack. Resistance should be around 1.4 (+/- 0.1) Ohms Check the MAF. If you have Nissan connect or a good scanner with the 14 adapter it should allow you to see the voltage on the MAF reading should be around 1.1 - 1.2V when car is idling. But if you don't, buy a new MAF from Amazon and test, then return it. (For instance, I got a Chinese one for $40 that was reporting 1.3v on idle). If you still have scanner, you can run tests on the injectors to see if they are working, just remember to unplug the fuel pump fuse/relay and have no pressure on the line. Then listen for the noises that the injectors make. Clean/replace injectors as needed. Once you find the issue and fix, order thousands of dollars worth of OEM parts to refresh unrelated things (Optional)   PS: Thanks to the absolute legends of this forum for the responses and help to someone that went a bit over their head. (me)
×
×
  • Create New...