Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i have a question on an engine swap and i cant seem to find anything related to it so i thought id come here, so i wanna put a worked 304 fuel injected 5ltr v8 into my r33 series 2 gtst.

all i want to know is will the old v8 fit into the engine bay without having to modify it heavily?

 

 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/481671-r33-engine-swap/
Share on other sites

57 minutes ago, EXODVS_FTP said:

all i want to know is will the old v8 fit into the engine bay without having to modify it heavily?

You just have not looked very hard. (Jesus, I say that a lot ) I googled Ford V8 in Skyline  there are many examples. Even a R34 that has a 410 cu Ford. Seek and you will find mate. If a 410 fits in a 34 then yes a 304 will fit. But as GTSBoy would say" WHY"   LS3 bigger, better and mucho information on how to do it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/481671-r33-engine-swap/#findComment-7944674
Share on other sites

@Rusty Nuts Thanks for answering the question boss man, and I didn't find anything to do with the 304 swap im new to the mechanical side of things and i dont know anything about Ford motors idk what a 410 is tbh grew up round Holden people thats why seeing a Ford motor in a 34 in some article wouldn't help me i didnt know the 410 was the same size as the 304.

And i dont wanna go with an ls because I love my Aussie built holden motors dont wanna use the ls its boring everyone puts em in everything they're everywhere and iv not seen a 304 in skyline before, im essentialy taking the motors out of both my cars and swapping them into each other, so rb25det powered vs ute and a aussie v8 powered r33.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/481671-r33-engine-swap/#findComment-7944675
Share on other sites

9 minutes ago, EXODVS_FTP said:

i dont know anything about Ford motors idk what a 410 is tbh

Ford 410 cubic inch is a big block motor, they are huge, way bigger than any aussie v8. If you want to do the swap, Follow your dream mate, and all power too you. At least the VS RB25det swap has been done and plenty of info out there.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/481671-r33-engine-swap/#findComment-7944676
Share on other sites

https://www.boostcruising.com/advice/404393-VS-UTE-Engine-Conversion-TO-Rb25det.html  you will find some good info such as the following paragraph

fitting a rb20det into a vp for the simple fact i had a ute with no motor and rb20det sitting there. use the vl crossmember with one vl engine mount and one skyline mount. fit the commodore crossmember to the nissan box and elongate the holes and it will fit. does require custom tailshaft. use a vl powersteering pump and vl power steering lines. one of the supports from the engine to the bottum of the gearbox needs modding to clear the steering rack. rad hoses are also hard as the commodore has narrower engine bay so standard skyline ones hit but you can just use a vl radiator.im currently fabricating allow hoses so i can run them where i want. i also am using the commodore alternator so all the existing wiring plugs back in. doing the clutch gear is the hardest. is yours auto or manual and whats its gonna be. my issue is that my vp was manual with a cable that pulls and the box is hydraulic with a slave that pushes which means modding the pedal box to accept a hydraulic push type setup and you are restricted badly by room issues.then just simpler things like fuel pumps but commodore pump will handle a stock rb engine. then theres FMIC and piping which is not the easiest and ive also put a engine oil cooler in the front with braided lines and its all a bery tight fit. all in all its not as easy as i thought but is doable.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/481671-r33-engine-swap/#findComment-7944678
Share on other sites

Doing things to be different or unique always ends up being fairly pointless and a wild waste of money.

 

Yes ls engines are common, for a reason. You have to spend heaps of cash on a 304 to make decent power, and what have you really achieved?

 

 

 

Your engine swap between two cars makes so little sense, just leave the engines in the cars they are already in and use the time and effort on something productive. That's my 2 cents that you didn't ask for.


 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/481671-r33-engine-swap/#findComment-7944686
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, Ben C34 said:

Yes ls engines are common, for a reason. You have to spend heaps of cash on a 304 to make decent power, and what have you really achieved?

I understand the money cost of a 304 but I'm not after some 1000kw 304 I simply want a 304 swapped r33 with say 300kw I know it's not hard to get that type of power my mates vs wagon pulls that no problem.

And as for what I would achieve? To most nothing but im not building my cars for others im building them for me.

If somethings easy its not worth doing, words to live by lad.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/481671-r33-engine-swap/#findComment-7944690
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, EXODVS_FTP said:

I understand the money cost of a 304 but I'm not after some 1000kw 304 I simply want a 304 swapped r33 with say 300kw I know it's not hard to get that type of power my mates vs wagon pulls that no problem.

And as for what I would achieve? To most nothing but im not building my cars for others im building them for me.

If somethings easy its not worth doing, words to live by lad.

Electrically its really pretty simple. There'd be no swap reason this wouldn't work if the dimensions are remotely similar (are they? I do not know).

The kicker of course is legality. Does the 304 put out similar emissions to your R33's RB25? The target must be met by the standard of the chassis, not the engine. Meaning your engine may pass in a 1988 commodore, but will be illegal in a 2000 Skyline etc. Unless it meets the year 2000 requirements.

The LS itself is extremely dumb and I am assuming an older V8 is even "dumber" so it'll definitely 'work'.. as long as it fits and depends heavily on what you want to keep.


I kept AC, and power steering, I cared about OEM dashes working OEM. Most importantly I cared about legality. Depending on how much you care about this depends heavily on how complex a job it will turn out to be.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/481671-r33-engine-swap/#findComment-7944699
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...