Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I rarely shift at above 7000 rpm, but so far I feel MTL shifts slightly quicker than MT-90.  That could all just be in my head though as knowing beforehand MTL is rated at 75W-80 and MT-90 is rated at 75W-90.  

On 24/01/2021 at 12:11 AM, MoMnDadGTR said:

redline shockproof fluid is total junk.

FYP, more correct. If shockproof was so good for gear only protection the offroaders with Albins dog boxes would use it - they do not.

Shockproof is a funny one. For more clarity regarding this, as Duncan mentioned if you use it with a stuffed synchro box it masks the problem with shifting. But from my usage from years ago if you use it in a great condition box it stuffs the synchros - go figure.

On 24/01/2021 at 5:00 AM, TXSquirrel said:

I had MT-90 before but running MTL now.  I prefer MTL, seems to suit better with the warmer and more humid climate I am located.

Redline MT-90 or MTL seems like a good choice if it's readily available to you for sure 👍 The difference between then might not just be in you head though-

Because of availability, I just personally have found the synthetic Castrol Syntrans 75w85 to be the best with synchro boxes for shifting quality. The  Penrite equivalent (which the name escapes me) is also pretty good.

Castrol Syntrax 75w90 by comparison was total crap - no shift above 6000rpm, so I think it's more to do with the contained additives sometimes not just the viscosity.

Syntrans is a GL-4, Syntrax is a GL-5

I am running TriboDyn in all my gearbox's now and so far working really well. 

Quietened down a gtr box with noisy bearing and it didn't like to shift great when cold.  It has saved me from pulling it out and been going 2 years now. 

Also going fine in my syncro OS giken box 2years later. 

 

 

  • Like 1
5 hours ago, BK said:

FYP, more correct. If shockproof was so good for gear only protection the offroaders with Albins dog boxes would use it - they do not.

Shockproof is a funny one. For more clarity regarding this, as Duncan mentioned if you use it with a stuffed synchro box it masks the problem with shifting. But from my usage from years ago if you use it in a great condition box it stuffs the synchros - go figure.

Redline MT-90 or MTL seems like a good choice if it's readily available to you for sure 👍 The difference between them might not just be in you head though-

Because of availability, I just personally have found the synthetic Castrol Syntrans 75w85 to be the best with synchro boxes for shifting quality. The  Penrite equivalent (which the name escapes me) is also pretty good.

Castrol Syntrax 75w90 by comparison was total crap - no shift above 6000rpm, so I think it's more to do with the contained additives sometimes not just the viscosity.

Syntrans is a GL-4, Syntrax is a GL-5

 Castrol Syntrans 75w85 for the win. i messaged you a while back on this ben,  was able to get a few rips in the car with the new castrol fluid before we ripped it apart for the build. shifted the exact same as the fluid i had in prior at regular rpm(3-5500) but seems to be far better at redline shifts...this is just my opinion tho, im not an expert by any means. but i do know for a fact that i have thrown out 300 dollars worth of redline fluid this week. 

1 hour ago, MoMnDadGTR said:

 Castrol Syntrans 75w85 for the win. i messaged you a while back on this ben,  was able to get a few rips in the car with the new castrol fluid before we ripped it apart for the build. shifted the exact same as the fluid i had in prior at regular rpm(3-5500) but seems to be far better at redline shifts...this is just my opinion tho, im not an expert by any means. but i do know for a fact that i have thrown out 300 dollars worth of redline fluid this week. 

Hey that's really good to hear you've had good results with it too. At lower rpm shifts any  gear oil will pretty much feel like anything else I guess when at operating temp, but at higher rpm is where you'll generally notice the difference between different oils.

I've tested heaps of these different oils on the quarter with the GTR synchro stock box and the OS giken synchro box which means shifting at least at 6.5k - 7k plus. The Castrol Syntrans 75w85 is completely repeatable at a variety of different temps on high rpm shifting - really really consistent and never broken a box with it (touch wood).

I've broken gearboxes with Redline shockproof oil, HKS actual GTR specific GTR gear oil and Castrol Syntrax 75w90.

The HKS oil is another one to avoid as it seemed just too thick for the synchros to work properly. I think it was a 90w120 from memory and I'm not even sure if it's sold anymore. But the Shockproof lightweight, HKS and Syntrax oils hated the 2nd to 3rd shift - they just didn't go in at speed.

1 hour ago, BK said:

Hey that's really good to hear you've had good results with it too. At lower rpm shifts any  gear oil will pretty much feel like anything else I guess when at operating temp, but at higher rpm is where you'll generally notice the difference between different oils.

I've tested heaps of these different oils on the quarter with the GTR synchro stock box and the OS giken synchro box which means shifting at least at 6.5k - 7k plus. The Castrol Syntrans 75w85 is completely repeatable at a variety of different temps on high rpm shifting - really really consistent and never broken a box with it (touch wood).

I've broken gearboxes with Redline shockproof oil, HKS actual GTR specific GTR gear oil and Castrol Syntrax 75w90.

The HKS oil is another one to avoid as it seemed just too thick for the synchros to work properly. I think it was a 90w120 from memory and I'm not even sure if it's sold anymore. But the Shockproof lightweight, HKS and Syntrax oils hated the 2nd to 3rd shift - they just didn't go in at speed.

i usually drive my car at night time around here so i know i sound like a classic dumb canadian but its cold here always(about 0 to plus 15 degreees celcius here all summer and fall. minus 52 today no joke coldest day of the year today i think. cant even go outside it f****d out, so even getting fluids to warm up daily driving can be a challenge. especiialy on our diesel motors. this being said i felt the hotter and harder i was on the syntrans fluid and the more i got the gearbox temps up it just started shifting like a dream. im totally convinced i wont use anything else now. i think anyone using redline is either stuck in the 90s or still using USA forums for information. real smart......

drove the sti this morning 4 blocks to day care and went and got mail, by the time i got home i would have to wait about 2 seconds for the clutch slave to fully disengage before i could get back into throttle and continue into the next gear. fluid turns to gel fast....im ready to move soon

9 hours ago, BK said:

Redline MT-90 or MTL seems like a good choice if it's readily available to you for sure 👍 The difference between them might not just be in you head though-

Because of availability, I just personally have found the synthetic Castrol Syntrans 75w85 to be the best with synchro boxes for shifting quality. The  Penrite equivalent (which the name escapes me) is also pretty good.

Castrol Syntrax 75w90 by comparison was total crap - no shift above 6000rpm, so I think it's more to do with the contained additives sometimes not just the viscosity.

Syntrans is a GL-4, Syntrax is a GL-5

Under 4000 rpm I know the difference is definitely not just in my head, MTL shifts way better than MT-90 especially before fluid is fully warmed up and that's why I prefer it.  Between 4000 and 7000 rpm the difference is interesting, it's hard to describe but kind of feels like stirring different viscosity drinks in a glass with a metal spoon.  The MTL feels like stirring a more watery drink in a glass so I can move the shifter quicker, but the moment it goes into gear there is a slightly crispier but harsher notch, like clinking the glass with a metal spoon in coffee instead of smoothie, a feeling I'm still getting used to.

With MT-90 the 2nd gear would grind before completely warmed up, and I switched about 6 months ago because a shop suggested MTL could help and the job was inexpensive.  Will see how it holds up in the next few years.

I believe you are right about the different fluids containing different additives and not just difference in viscosity.  Your experience with the Castrol fluids could be comparable to my experience with Redline fluids, and I'm interested to know if others would like to try it, however sounds like Redline isn't as readily available there.

17 minutes ago, TXSquirrel said:

Under 4000 rpm I know the difference is definitely not just in my head, MTL shifts way better than MT-90 especially before fluid is fully warmed up and that's why I prefer it.  Between 4000 and 7000 rpm the difference is interesting, it's hard to describe but kind of feels like stirring different viscosity drinks in a glass with a metal spoon.  The MTL feels like stirring a more watery drink in a glass so I can move the shifter quicker, but the moment it goes into gear there is a slightly crispier but harsher notch, like clinking the glass with a metal spoon in coffee instead of smoothie, a feeling I'm still getting used to.

With MT-90 the 2nd gear would grind before completely warmed up, and I switched about 6 months ago because a shop suggested MTL could help and the job was inexpensive.  Will see how it holds up in the next few years.

I believe you are right about the different fluids containing different additives and not just difference in viscosity.  Your experience with the Castrol fluids could be comparable to my experience with Redline fluids, and I'm interested to know if others would like to try it, however sounds like Redline isn't as readily available there.

i dont know why you would ever select a fluid based on how in functions when its not at operating temps. id be more concerned about how it when being smacked around a bit and what your synchro's look like when you tear your gearbox down... just my 2 cents tho. sounds like your pretty easy on your unit and dont rev it up to often tho, so i bet you could pretty much through wat ever you want in there and you would be ok. cheers. i dont think its hard to see that most the guys here commenting are running way more power than me and you ever will and they are saying its not good. if you took that redline fluid to the track for few days your gearbox would look like it has grease in it. b interesting if you magically had some syntrans and could try that. i feel like this thread would be dead at that point.

If your transmission lives a pretty easy life and isn't subject to heavy shock loads then protection at operating temperatures is not as big a concern as behavior when cold, personally I plan on trying Motorcraft's GL-4 as it supposedly has had pretty good results at taming some rather grind-prone Miata transmissions.

  • 6 months later...

So here's an odd one that I'd like to hear opinions on.

I ran a standard r32 gtr 1991 5 speed on track for years. it had heavy shockproof in it that whole period. No problems at all.

I bought a brand new series 3 box from rhd and my garage put "normal" oil in it. It ran fine for a few track days and changed the oil.  now after around 5-10 days on track it crunches on all upshifts over 4500rpm or so. Only double de-clutching stops the crunch on high rev changes.

When it started crunching I got the garage to inspect the clutch (os twin plate) and bleed the master and slave cylinders. They couldn't see anything wrong.

What killed the new box, wrong oil? The first fill on the new box and the oil change were both Millers CRX 75w90 NT which are described as for "Manual transmissions, synchromesh ... which require API GL4 or GL5 performance"

Edited by alexj

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...