Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All

I've done a lot of reading on here about what people are doing for turbo replacements and 99% of the time people have or are looking at upgrades - exhaust etc. and the discussion seems to revolve around that.

I'm a little old-fashioned and my car is stock and prefer to keep it that way so am looking for a turbo to suit. I want a bolt up solution and I noticed a lot of you lads talk about the CGC high-flow. I just rang them and they said that if I were to do that, the car would require a tune and would not run right without. Is this accurate? Am I to understand that the stock ECU cannot be tuned so this is not a solution as I don't really want to stuff around too much.

Has anybody here done this i.e bolted a CGC high-flow to an otherwise stock car? What were the results? Did it run OK as is?

Any advice or help would be much appreciated.

Thanks all

If your car is stock and you want to keep it stock, would you not just get another stock turbo if your current one has failed? 

If what your saying is you want an upgraded bolt on turbo that is so small it won't need any supporting mods or a tune, you might find G2 highflow is what you're after. See link below - 

https://hypergearturbos.com/product/nissan-rb25det-turbocharger-standard-high-flow-service/

2 minutes ago, Murray_Calavera said:

If your car is stock and you want to keep it stock, would you not just get another stock turbo if your current one has failed? 

If what your saying is you want an upgraded bolt on turbo that is so small it won't need any supporting mods or a tune, you might find G2 highflow is what you're after. See link below - 

https://hypergearturbos.com/product/nissan-rb25det-turbocharger-standard-high-flow-service/

Hi Murray, this looks like the same thing CGC is offering. The issue is because the guts are larger there may be a need for a tune (this is what CGC advised me anyway) which goes to my original question.

Just now, ステージア said:

Hi Murray, this looks like the same thing CGC is offering. The issue is because the guts are larger there may be a need for a tune (this is what CGC advised me anyway) which goes to my original question.

From the Hypergear website. G2 is happy with the stock ECU and stock fuel system. 

G2 high flow is capable of making up to 230rwkws. It is happy to hold factory boost, recommended for Rb20det engines and Rb25dets working with factory ecu and fuel system.

It's GCG. Not CGC.

You could no doubt get Tao (Hypergear) to rebuild you a stock Hitachi turbo with wheels that are not much different in capacity to the original. He would have to have access to plenty of turbines and compressors that are approximately the same as the stockers. It's just that no-one would want to pay the rebuild cost for a turbo that could have been an actual highflow instead. It will cost the same.

A small highflow will work against the stock ECU. But an important point to remember is that any highflow will flow more gas (and therefore air) at the same boost as stock, so will definitely push your operating point in the ECU's fuel and ignition tables further to the right. In RB25 ECUS, this will lead to more richness and less timing, which is not great. Will use more fuel and make less power than it otherwise could.

An actual proper highflow, a better ECU, some injectors and an AFM are sensible modifications.

You won't be able to run a larger turbo on a stagea with a standard ECU. They are very sensitive to changes in airflow, even a mild boost increase on the standard turbo will throw it off.

If you want to be able to return it to stock, best to plug in an ECU like a PowerFC and put the larger turbo on, reasonably easier to return to stock if you want to.

@RBW49N I want it to be as close to stock so I don't need to change anything else.

@GTSBoy&@DuncanAppreciate the sage technical advice

Thanks everyone for you input. So basically if I want to continue on the keeping the car as stock as possible road, I'm gonna need a either a new or decent second-hand stock turbo.

I guess the next question is what's the best source of either of these?

Ta 

1 minute ago, ステージア said:

I guess the next question is what's the best source of either of these?

There are no new ones. These are ceramic turbine, so all the ones that were going to die from natural causes died years ago and were replaced with the spare stock Nissan had, using it all up. Many have been destroyed since by stupidity (turning the boost up too far).

Essentially, any 2nd hand one you can get that was in good working condition will likely be fine used at stock boost for the rest of time. They've had 20+ years to kill off the weak ones.

Yo get one you'll just need to look at the forums for sales, FB groups (shudder), eBay, Gumtree, etc, for people selling them and try to pick one that is healthy. Import wreckers will also have them and might offer some warranty, which may or may not be useful if you don't install it immediately and discover if it is good or is hiding a problem that wasn't visible on inspection.

4 minutes ago, ステージア said:

@RBW49N I want it to be as close to stock so I don't need to change anything else.

@GTSBoy&@DuncanAppreciate the sage technical advice

Thanks everyone for you input. So basically if I want to continue on the keeping the car as stock as possible road, I'm gonna need a either a new or decent second-hand stock turbo.

I guess the next question is what's the best source of either of these?

Ta 

There is a always a few for sale on FB marketplace and they do pop up here from time to time. I have one that needs a rebuild if you want it you can have it just come and get it. Then there would be very little down time

  • Thanks 1

Is there even an ECU that can play nicely with the 4AT in these Stageas? I don't mean like a Motec where in theory you could write all of the code to handle that stuff, actual support where there's a base map that is pretty much spot-on for the transmission, just need to change some calibration values to get things like shift mapping to suit, maybe some timing retard adjustments to get the shifts smoothed out as well.

3 minutes ago, joshuaho96 said:

Is there even an ECU that can play nicely with the 4AT in these Stageas? I don't mean like a Motec where in theory you could write all of the code to handle that stuff, actual support where there's a base map that is pretty much spot-on for the transmission, just need to change some calibration values to get things like shift mapping to suit, maybe some timing retard adjustments to get the shifts smoothed out as well.

Yes It can be done with the Haltech elite 2500. Full series 2 auto, fuel and ignition control. 

Edited by RBW49N

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...