Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

For some reason my '05 350z will get stuck in first gear when parked on a hill, this is only if the gearbox is holding it (if the handbrake is, its fine). 

I won't be able to pull it out of first gear, even if I push the clutch in with the car off and it won't roll back either even with the clutch in.

The only way to release it, is to turn the car on with the clutch in and then I can pull it out but it always makes a big thud. 

Is that normal, in my R33 I can push the clutch in even with the car off and load on the transmission and change it out of 1st. 

I don't see that as a reasonable excuse for not engaging the handbrake, at all.

I hope you're at least turning your wheels in the right direction for your vehicle to veer into the kerb so that it doesn't roll off and damage someone else's vehicle or kill someone.

Pardon my judgmental attitude but part of motoring is thinking responsibly about everyone around you and your heavy steel weapon. We have parking brakes for a reason. They are the primary safety device, not your gearbox.

Let me say I almost never use the park brake on my autos, but that is a very different situation to manual. 

Auto has a pawl which locks the gearbox. Manual is just using engine compression to hold the car which is not safe depending on the slope or unexpected extra load like another car or a person leaning on it ;)

I think best practice is pull up to a stop with foot on the brake, pull up the hand brake, release foot off the brake pedal, turn off the car, clutch in (or not, don't think it matters once car is off) put the gearbox in 1st or reverse depending on whether you're facing up/down.

 

I do this in autos too, foot brake, hand brake, release foot brake, put lever into P.

On 2/24/2021 at 9:41 AM, Duncan said:

Let me say I almost never use the park brake on my autos, but that is a very different situation to manual. 

Auto has a pawl which locks the gearbox.

I'm not so trusting of that idea either. I know of two people with two vehicles whose pawl did not hold their vehicle at all and made quite the amusing ticking sound as they rolled away from them. One caught his vehicle in time. The other, well, the write-off was a blessing in disguise anyway. To me, they're always a backup to the parking brake, not a primary.

Many cars do have neutral inhibit on manuals.  The Holden Cruze has such a crap handbrake they will roll away unless you crank it on hard and the owners manual specifies to leave in gear. Mate had one roll out his driveway across the road into neighbor's yard. Everyone was ok luckily , and from my perspective it was very funny.

5 minutes ago, Ben C34 said:

and from my perspective it was very funny.

It always is when it's not your car. :P

Which reminds me, I need to readjust the parking brake on my V36. Nobody has really been capable of giving it a proper adjustment, working on the cable instead of the shoes themselves. I always get a little nervous creep from it.

On 24/02/2021 at 1:33 PM, Ben C34 said:

Squeezing the oil out of your engine bearings to hold the car on a hill sounds like a shit idea to me.

Hey @Ben C34 was this directed at my method?  Just would like to know how you mean as I am a mechanical numpty.

 

Cheers,

Edited by JGTC
36 minutes ago, JGTC said:

Hey @Ben C34 was this directed at my method?  Just would like to know how you mean as I am a mechanical numpty.

 

Cheers,

Not you directly mate. What you have described doesnt load up the gearbox and then engine unless the hand brake doesnt hold.

  • 2 weeks later...
On 2/25/2021 at 11:14 AM, Ben C34 said:

Not you directly mate. What you have described doesnt load up the gearbox and then engine unless the hand brake doesnt hold.

 

On 2/25/2021 at 10:37 AM, JGTC said:

Hey @Ben C34 was this directed at my method?  Just would like to know how you mean as I am a mechanical numpty.

 

Cheers,

 

On 2/25/2021 at 10:24 AM, The Max said:

It always is when it's not your car. :P

Which reminds me, I need to readjust the parking brake on my V36. Nobody has really been capable of giving it a proper adjustment, working on the cable instead of the shoes themselves. I always get a little nervous creep from it.

 

On 2/25/2021 at 10:17 AM, Ben C34 said:

Many cars do have neutral inhibit on manuals.  The Holden Cruze has such a crap handbrake they will roll away unless you crank it on hard and the owners manual specifies to leave in gear. Mate had one roll out his driveway across the road into neighbor's yard. Everyone was ok luckily , and from my perspective it was very funny.

 

On 2/25/2021 at 9:44 AM, The Max said:

I'm not so trusting of that idea either. I know of two people with two vehicles whose pawl did not hold their vehicle at all and made quite the amusing ticking sound as they rolled away from them. One caught his vehicle in time. The other, well, the write-off was a blessing in disguise anyway. To me, they're always a backup to the parking brake, not a primary.

 

On 2/24/2021 at 3:06 PM, GTSBoy said:

I never leave a manual parked in gear. Accidental key turning can result in panel damage because there is no neutral inhibit on a manual.

The handbrake is there for a reason.

 

On 2/24/2021 at 7:45 AM, JGTC said:

I think best practice is pull up to a stop with foot on the brake, pull up the hand brake, release foot off the brake pedal, turn off the car, clutch in (or not, don't think it matters once car is off) put the gearbox in 1st or reverse depending on whether you're facing up/down.

 

I do this in autos too, foot brake, hand brake, release foot brake, put lever into P.

 

On 2/23/2021 at 9:36 PM, The Max said:

I don't see that as a reasonable excuse for not engaging the handbrake, at all.

I hope you're at least turning your wheels in the right direction for your vehicle to veer into the kerb so that it doesn't roll off and damage someone else's vehicle or kill someone.

Pardon my judgmental attitude but part of motoring is thinking responsibly about everyone around you and your heavy steel weapon. We have parking brakes for a reason. They are the primary safety device, not your gearbox.

Everyone here veered straight off what I was trying to ask, I wasn't after a safety lecture. I don't usually leave the car in 1st gear on a hill ffs. 

What I was trying to ask is, if I am on a hill and for whatever reason the gearbox is the reason its being held on the hill (lets say its in a controlled environment, in the middle of mexico, with bubble wrap all around it and cotton wool just in case) it won't let me pull it out of gear (even with the clutch pushed in of course) unless I start the car. 

That is on my V35 with a twin plate, solid center clutch. It's been in the car for over 20,000km and doesn't show any other signs of dragging the clutch. 

My R33, you can hold it on the hill in gear with the gearbox and if you push the clutch in even with the motor off it will let you pull it out of gear, the v35 doesn't do that. 

 

Is that a symptom of a twin plate clutch, or is there potentially something else wrong - like maybe clutch drag even though I highly doubt that being the issue.

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...