Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all, just doing a +t conversion to my 25de R34 coupe. Just hoping someone might be able to help me out with what sort of kw/psi I would be able to push through the de without sending a rod to the moon.

I got a pretty stock kit off a DET with a few upgraded bits.

- All factory piping, intercooler, fuel rail, intake mani and throttle body, exhaust mani, 3" dump through to xforce exhaust.

- High-flowed factory turbo (20psi)

- Bosch 1000cc injectors

- Apexi FC with controller

I know a det can push 500rwhp without upgrading internals but cause of higher comp in the DE I don't know what I should be pushing out of it. Any help would be greatly appreciated, I would still like to daily it but have a fair bit of go if I put the foot down.

Thankyou all

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/482143-rb25det-neo-power/
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, R34AC said:

Hey all, just doing a +t conversion to my 25de R34 coupe

Well you have come to the right place! Welcome. Its been done to death previously on this forum. Use the search function.

Rb25 de+t ignition maps.. Boost

just plug that in to search function and choose from 10,000 hits

Edited by Rusty Nuts
additional information

As a serious answer

500rwhp (372kw) is not really that reasonable long term under heavy abuse (track work). I wouldn't push any stock RB that hard unless you're comfortably happy to rebuild/know a guy/have patience for it.

For the non turbo motor, I've heard similar numbers, but given it has higher comp I would just tune the car on 98 (or 93/91 as I suspect you're not Australian), and let knock be your guide.

E85 is good, but regular petrol does act like a bit of a sanity check.

2 hours ago, Kinkstaah said:

As a serious answer

500rwhp (372kw) is not really that reasonable long term under heavy abuse (track work). I wouldn't push any stock RB that hard unless you're comfortably happy to rebuild/know a guy/have patience for it.

For the non turbo motor, I've heard similar numbers, but given it has higher comp I would just tune the car on 98 (or 93/91 as I suspect you're not Australian), and let knock be your guide.

E85 is good, but regular petrol does act like a bit of a sanity check.

Im in QLD Australia, the previous owner of the kit only ran it on e85 and it would still be my daily, ive just heard so many different numbers thrown around that I really don't know how far to go with a tune without blowing something up, I know I have the parts capable of pushing 400+ but I'm not sure if the internals could keep up with it.

33 minutes ago, R34AC said:

just heard so many different numbers thrown around that I really don't know how far to go with a tune without blowing something up, I

That's because there are a wild amount of variables, so the actual number doesn't exist. How would it?

2 minutes ago, Ben C34 said:

That's because there are a wild amount of variables, so the actual number doesn't exist. How would it?

Im not after a specific number im just after a generally safe area where the internals won't be under so much pressure they break but also has some go if I wanted to put the foot down, I know it can make 400 but im not sure if 400 is safe because de comp is so high. I have the supporting power parts but if my internals can't do more than 350 on 10psi reliably then I don't know what I can put through it. Some people have said it'll do 400 on 20psi while others have said no more than 230 on 7psi. I never thrash my car as to me it's way too precious to me lol. I've just always had a large margin between what people say is good for it, that's why im hoping someone who has done it before would be able to tell me what I can and can't do with it cause I'm still learning all this sort of stuff and need a bit of help.

2 minutes ago, Rusty Nuts said:

I was serious Greg, trying to encourage self education before asking the universe.

I do appreciate the help, I just can't afford to buy a whole new engine if I go with a handful of people that say blast 50million psi through it. I've done some googling but again it's all very different for everyone and I'm not someone to flog the engine, it gets me to / from work and cruising through town on the weekends.

2 hours ago, Rusty Nuts said:

I was serious Greg, trying to encourage self education before asking the universe.

Sorry, I didn't mean to imply you weren't serious

That said

Searching the internet does lead you to believe 370kw is "safe, for years bro" and it is not always that case, or that simple. People's use cases vary so very drastically. Honestly NA+T I'd shoot for something like 240kw with a manual gearbox and highflow OEM looking turbo and be like yep go enjoy car.

However if you can't afford to live without the car/can't afford a rebuild/don't have another motor then Step 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5, is obtain a backup car/work towards an engine ready to go. 

Have a backup plan. These are not cars you can drop off at your local ultratune and expect a broken motor to be replaced within a week.

2 hours ago, Kinkstaah said:

Searching the internet does lead you to believe 370kw is "safe, for years bro"

Hence why I suggested the search on this forum, go back ten years and the crazy ideas were getting shot down. Go back three months and some new ideas and old were punted around. Its all in the archive here, plus you get to read GTSBoy's remarks all over again ( Warning: these remarks are intended to offend the "can I put an XR6 turbo on my N/A, will the gearbox handle 800hp crowd" )

Just remembered the member to check out is DatsunBanana he drives an R34de+t auto and is keen on the subject, also check out 666Dan's legendary thread.  

How to turbo your N/A

By 666DAN, February 2, 2004 in Naturally Aspirated Performance

Edited by Rusty Nuts
additional information

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
    • What sold me on Trailer Park Boys is this scene: Great stuff, just stay clear from the new Netflix production.
×
×
  • Create New...