R32 GTR, seat fabric color, intake airbox etc

[reallyspeedly]

Hi!

 

Just bought a R32 GT-R wich is pretty must oem with 50kmiles on it. 

The driver seat is worn, and there is a hole in it. So is there anyone who know the fabric/color code for these seats? Or am i stupid if i replace the cloth with something else like alcantara or leather etc and walk away from the oem fabric? 

As i said, this GT-R is pretty much oem, except engie internals and turbo upgrade. The intake airbox has been removed and replaced with HKS mushroom filters, i was thinking it could be a good idea to buy the oem intake airbox to make the car "complete" oem? or that maybe dosent matter (they were very expensive..) ? I will use the car, i will drive the car, but since i aldready have a heavly modified JDM car i thought i could just keep this on as oem as possible. 

Is there any must upgrade on these cars you recommend? 
Im planning on re-wire the fuelpump wiring since i've heard that it has a hard time to deliver full voltage to fuelpump. Im also planning to upgrade fuel pump.

anything else that would be good to do before i put it on the road? 

 

 

 

[Duncan]

Welcome to the forums and congrats on your purchase.

Sorry, I don't know anything about the fabric, although wear/tears/cigarette burns are common after 33 years. I doubt you can get 1 seat recovered without making the other seat really stand out so it is probably worth just getting a local upholsterer to do both.

Re the filters (and klm), it really depends what you want to do with the car. How owners and the market generally view them has changed dramatically in the last 5 years, so if you intend to keep the car for many years (or even flip it quickly) without intending to modify it, putting the standard airbox back in and keep everything stock and tidy will be best for it's value. Speaking of value, unless you just set the record for most expensive R32 GTR in the world, it will not have a genuine 50,000klm on it, winding back the odometer is pretty common, and you need to have it carefully checked for rust.

Due to the klm question, unless you are certain about the timing belt I would change that as part of a first service, and while you are there do the water pump, timing belt idler, timing belt tensioner and their respective stud and bolt. Plus everything else you would do for an old car that you car about; change every fluid (engine, gearbox, transfer case, front diff, rear diff, brakes, coolant), fuel filter, fuel pump (maybe drop and clean the whole tank out), check all bushes and ball joints. I'd also get it run up on a dyno to make sure it is running OK and to check what boost it is making (especially if the turbos are standard, they are likely to fail and potentially cause engine damage above about about 14psi). Spark plugs, coil packs, coil pack wiring, crank angle sensor, coil ignitor pack, AAC valve are all common trouble points at this age.

[joshuaho96]

2 hours ago, reallyspeedly said:

Hi!

 

Just bought a R32 GT-R wich is pretty must oem with 50kmiles on it. 

The driver seat is worn, and there is a hole in it. So is there anyone who know the fabric/color code for these seats? Or am i stupid if i replace the cloth with something else like alcantara or leather etc and walk away from the oem fabric? 

As i said, this GT-R is pretty much oem, except engie internals and turbo upgrade. The intake airbox has been removed and replaced with HKS mushroom filters, i was thinking it could be a good idea to buy the oem intake airbox to make the car "complete" oem? or that maybe dosent matter (they were very expensive..) ? I will use the car, i will drive the car, but since i aldready have a heavly modified JDM car i thought i could just keep this on as oem as possible. 

Is there any must upgrade on these cars you recommend? 
Im planning on re-wire the fuelpump wiring since i've heard that it has a hard time to deliver full voltage to fuelpump. Im also planning to upgrade fuel pump.

anything else that would be good to do before i put it on the road? 

 

 

 

It's hard to reproduce the exact factory colors and feel, but alcantara is pretty much the same general idea. It's all polyester or otherwise plastic-based suede imitation fabric. Robson leather managed this with just alcantara so that's probably the way to go:

 

Keep in mind you will also need to find someone who can figure out how to fix the foam which is almost certainly collapsed with age. If you aren't wedded to the exact OEM look and feel you could do something like the Nismo seat covers which is plastic-based leather on the bolsters and headrest and alcantara in the center. I wouldn't buy the Nismo seat covers, kind of a waste of money unless you really want the Nismo logo for some reason. Garage Active makes something similar for half the money so the margin there is pretty tremendous.

Personally I think the OEM airbox is a good idea mostly because the HKS mushroom filters don't actually filter anything and sand in your engine isn't great for its longevity. You'd have to use the OEM paper filters or something comparable though and it will likely reduce power output if you're going for huge power.

My recommendation if you want to rewire the fuel pump to reduce fuel pressure regulator load you should use a solid state relay and a new wire to your standalone ECU so you can adjust duty cycle. The factory FPR is super dinky and can't bypass a lot of fuel. Even big aftermarket FPRs have limits, if you throw 500 lph at one and expect it to bypass all of it at idle you're probably going to have higher fuel pressure at idle. If you plan on throwing out all of the OEM fuel system this is less relevant but then you should consider how you're going to replace the OEM pulsation damper and all of that fun stuff as well for higher flow designs.

As others have said a lot can go wrong with cars this old. Don't parts cannon everything. Look at things as they are and try to get to ground truth when diagnosing problems to understand the causal chain between a problem and the resulting symptoms. Otherwise every little problem will drive you insane.

[GTSBoy]

4 hours ago, reallyspeedly said:

R32 GT-R with 50kmiles on it

And....if you believe that, I have a lovely piece of harbourside real estate I would like to offer for you purchase consideration.

Seats are worn because seats have been sat in. For a long time. And a lot of miles. And "a lot" is more than 80k km. Try 180 k km.

[reallyspeedly]

23 hours ago, Duncan said:

Welcome to the forums and congrats on your purchase.

Sorry, I don't know anything about the fabric, although wear/tears/cigarette burns are common after 33 years. I doubt you can get 1 seat recovered without making the other seat really stand out so it is probably worth just getting a local upholsterer to do both.

Re the filters (and klm), it really depends what you want to do with the car. How owners and the market generally view them has changed dramatically in the last 5 years, so if you intend to keep the car for many years (or even flip it quickly) without intending to modify it, putting the standard airbox back in and keep everything stock and tidy will be best for it's value. Speaking of value, unless you just set the record for most expensive R32 GTR in the world, it will not have a genuine 50,000klm on it, winding back the odometer is pretty common, and you need to have it carefully checked for rust.

Due to the klm question, unless you are certain about the timing belt I would change that as part of a first service, and while you are there do the water pump, timing belt idler, timing belt tensioner and their respective stud and bolt. Plus everything else you would do for an old car that you car about; change every fluid (engine, gearbox, transfer case, front diff, rear diff, brakes, coolant), fuel filter, fuel pump (maybe drop and clean the whole tank out), check all bushes and ball joints. I'd also get it run up on a dyno to make sure it is running OK and to check what boost it is making (especially if the turbos are standard, they are likely to fail and potentially cause engine damage above about about 14psi). Spark plugs, coil packs, coil pack wiring, crank angle sensor, coil ignitor pack, AAC valve are all common trouble points at this age.

Thanks.

Okey, i will see what i can do with the seats there. They are dirty so i will clean them up first and go from there, then we just have the hole on the drivers seat that gets bigger beacuse your pants just keep chafing it. Maybe i let someone make a nice repair if the seats seems to be in better condition when cleaned.

Planning to keep the car as long as possible,i have owned my other JDM for 10 years now and are not planning to sell for profit.. i love driving, espacially these cars.

Is there any whp limit you guys go to before you should replace the oem intake airbox or should it be fine to run for up to 400whp? 

well, 50k miles idk.. but the odometer hasnt been touched since 2006 atleast, but before that i dont know. 

Yeah, i've checked the car for rust, there are rust were the jacking point are because someone has smashed them or jacked the wrong. Otherwise pretty clean, some small spots of rust at the rear fenders, but i will probably put the car to pieces as i did with my other car, and restore it completly anyway.. 

All the belts are replaced, i bought oil for ATESSA, transfercase, front diff, rear diff, gearbox so im planning to change these this week(motul and liquid moly). Im not sure about the ATESSA system cause i cant find a correct task for replacement of that oil. 
Transfercase seems like it's just as simple as gearbox and diffs. 
Im not sure how to replace the oil in the ATESSA system//resevoir in the boot. There is 2 bleed valves, one in the back at the pump and one located at the transfer case. As far as i understand from the guys in the forums is that you disc/connect the connector at r/h drivers foot behind the panel the make the pump going and also release the valve located at the transfer case to drain it from there. Meanwhile it drains out you keep filling it it with new until the new oil are comming out at the bleed valve. Also it seems like you have to make sure that you fill the bottom of the resevoir enough so that there only are like 5mm of air left at the top.

 

Fuel filter is replaced, im planning to drop the tank as you said and replace the fuel pump also and also re-wire the system ( or put a relay as a trigger and run power from the battery to the pump ). Replace the Fuel lines. 
AAC valve has been removed and cleaned. Good idea, i will check what kind of coil packs is installed and also the wiring. I will check the other stuff you recommended also, thank you. 

I will run the dyno first thing, cause of the new aftermarket ECU, and also to make sure everything is alright. I dont know which size of turbo thats installed, but i think it is -5 actually, so maybe i will need to check which size of injectors installed also.

 

 

Edited October 10, 2022 by reallyspeedly

[reallyspeedly]

19 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

And....if you believe that, I have a lovely piece of harbourside real estate I would like to offer for you purchase consideration.

Seats are worn because seats have been sat in. For a long time. And a lot of miles. And "a lot" is more than 80k km. Try 180 k km.

Well, i can only track the car milage back to 2006, and from there it seems ok. Idk about 50k miles but that's what the odometer say's atm.

[reallyspeedly]

21 hours ago, joshuaho96 said:

It's hard to reproduce the exact factory colors and feel, but alcantara is pretty much the same general idea. It's all polyester or otherwise plastic-based suede imitation fabric. Robson leather managed this with just alcantara so that's probably the way to go:

 

Keep in mind you will also need to find someone who can figure out how to fix the foam which is almost certainly collapsed with age. If you aren't wedded to the exact OEM look and feel you could do something like the Nismo seat covers which is plastic-based leather on the bolsters and headrest and alcantara in the center. I wouldn't buy the Nismo seat covers, kind of a waste of money unless you really want the Nismo logo for some reason. Garage Active makes something similar for half the money so the margin there is pretty tremendous.

Personally I think the OEM airbox is a good idea mostly because the HKS mushroom filters don't actually filter anything and sand in your engine isn't great for its longevity. You'd have to use the OEM paper filters or something comparable though and it will likely reduce power output if you're going for huge power.

My recommendation if you want to rewire the fuel pump to reduce fuel pressure regulator load you should use a solid state relay and a new wire to your standalone ECU so you can adjust duty cycle. The factory FPR is super dinky and can't bypass a lot of fuel. Even big aftermarket FPRs have limits, if you throw 500 lph at one and expect it to bypass all of it at idle you're probably going to have higher fuel pressure at idle. If you plan on throwing out all of the OEM fuel system this is less relevant but then you should consider how you're going to replace the OEM pulsation damper and all of that fun stuff as well for higher flow designs.

As others have said a lot can go wrong with cars this old. Don't parts cannon everything. Look at things as they are and try to get to ground truth when diagnosing problems to understand the causal chain between a problem and the resulting symptoms. Otherwise every little problem will drive you insane.

Ok. I will clean them up and see how bad the actually are. Maybe a smaller repair is enough and better to keep them oem. Otherwise i know i guy i think i can send them over to, to replace the fabric and fix the foam. Where there any seats in these GTR that were black or something? Cause that would be easier to replace with black fabric, and still make it look as oem as possible.

 

Okey, i will probably go for the OEM intake airbox then. Im not a fan of these aftermarket filters either. 

Well, i planning to fix the wire for the fuelpump because i've heard that the voltagedrop is too big on load and you wont get 12v at the pump. I've seen some instruction were you can but an realy back there and let the wire from the ignition trigger that relay instead and have wire the pump through the relay directly from the battery instead? 

 

since im planning to run about 400whp, it probably a good idea to replace the fuelpump and also the injectors and install an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator?

Edited October 10, 2022 by reallyspeedly

[reallyspeedly]

On 09/10/2022 at 9:32 PM, Duncan said:

Welcome to the forums and congrats on your purchase.

Sorry, I don't know anything about the fabric, although wear/tears/cigarette burns are common after 33 years. I doubt you can get 1 seat recovered without making the other seat really stand out so it is probably worth just getting a local upholsterer to do both.

Re the filters (and klm), it really depends what you want to do with the car. How owners and the market generally view them has changed dramatically in the last 5 years, so if you intend to keep the car for many years (or even flip it quickly) without intending to modify it, putting the standard airbox back in and keep everything stock and tidy will be best for it's value. Speaking of value, unless you just set the record for most expensive R32 GTR in the world, it will not have a genuine 50,000klm on it, winding back the odometer is pretty common, and you need to have it carefully checked for rust.

Due to the klm question, unless you are certain about the timing belt I would change that as part of a first service, and while you are there do the water pump, timing belt idler, timing belt tensioner and their respective stud and bolt. Plus everything else you would do for an old car that you car about; change every fluid (engine, gearbox, transfer case, front diff, rear diff, brakes, coolant), fuel filter, fuel pump (maybe drop and clean the whole tank out), check all bushes and ball joints. I'd also get it run up on a dyno to make sure it is running OK and to check what boost it is making (especially if the turbos are standard, they are likely to fail and potentially cause engine damage above about about 14psi). Spark plugs, coil packs, coil pack wiring, crank angle sensor, coil ignitor pack, AAC valve are all common trouble points at this age.

 

21 hours ago, joshuaho96 said:

It's hard to reproduce the exact factory colors and feel, but alcantara is pretty much the same general idea. It's all polyester or otherwise plastic-based suede imitation fabric. Robson leather managed this with just alcantara so that's probably the way to go:

 

Keep in mind you will also need to find someone who can figure out how to fix the foam which is almost certainly collapsed with age. If you aren't wedded to the exact OEM look and feel you could do something like the Nismo seat covers which is plastic-based leather on the bolsters and headrest and alcantara in the center. I wouldn't buy the Nismo seat covers, kind of a waste of money unless you really want the Nismo logo for some reason. Garage Active makes something similar for half the money so the margin there is pretty tremendous.

Personally I think the OEM airbox is a good idea mostly because the HKS mushroom filters don't actually filter anything and sand in your engine isn't great for its longevity. You'd have to use the OEM paper filters or something comparable though and it will likely reduce power output if you're going for huge power.

My recommendation if you want to rewire the fuel pump to reduce fuel pressure regulator load you should use a solid state relay and a new wire to your standalone ECU so you can adjust duty cycle. The factory FPR is super dinky and can't bypass a lot of fuel. Even big aftermarket FPRs have limits, if you throw 500 lph at one and expect it to bypass all of it at idle you're probably going to have higher fuel pressure at idle. If you plan on throwing out all of the OEM fuel system this is less relevant but then you should consider how you're going to replace the OEM pulsation damper and all of that fun stuff as well for higher flow designs.

As others have said a lot can go wrong with cars this old. Don't parts cannon everything. Look at things as they are and try to get to ground truth when diagnosing problems to understand the causal chain between a problem and the resulting symptoms. Otherwise every little problem will drive you insane.

If there are -5 turbos in, i belive i will probably atleast need to go for around 400whp? Since this incrase in power i will need more fuel, so what steps are recommended here then? Fuelpump is planned, i dont know the injectors size yet but let's say they are oem. And for the fpr etc?
Is there anything else i will need to think of to be able to run these figures with this turbos? 

I will contact my tuner for more details since he said that he had great results with these turbos. And as far as i can remember, there were -5 turbo installed.

Edited October 10, 2022 by reallyspeedly

[Duncan]

A slightly larger than standard aftermarket fuel pump is a good idea if you have -5s and a tune in it. You don't need to go significantly larger.  The stock airbox is fine for -5s and beyond. Since you have some sort of ECU just take the trigger wire from the ECU to standard fuel pump relay, run a fused wire from the battery to a new relay and replace the fuel pump ground with one direct to chassis. This will bypass the factory fuel resistor and upgrade the wiring giving about 10% more voltage to the pump

As for the rest, it is difficult to advise without more information. Generally -5s would have upgraded injectors, factory ones run out about 250awkw. You should be able to tell from the tune file if you can read it. You would normally have 3" exhaust to support that too.  FPR does not need to change and nor do fuel lines (unless they are old). Spark will also be fine if it is working correctly. Do you know maximum boost level?

You might already have or might consider changing cams or even just adding cam gears for that level of tune, and it will probably have noticeable lag with full boost over 4,000

I'd still strongly recommend changing the timing belt etc unless you are certain about it. RB26 is an interference engine, so a failed timing belt will munch the valves.

Considering these cars are 33 years old, they respond very easily to around 2x factory power. From there some weaknesses need to be addressed.

Re transfer case, correct it fills just like the gearbox. It takes ATF, I use Castrol Transmax Z in the race car.  The ATTESSA system takes the same stuff and you bleed it at 2 nipples; first at the rear of the transfer case and then above the rear driveshaft. When the engine is running or that bypass connector is open the pump bleeds continuously.

[GTSBoy]

4 hours ago, reallyspeedly said:

Well, i can only track the car milage back to 2006, and from there it seems ok. Idk about 50k miles but that's what the odometer say's atm.

Would have been massively wound back in Japan well before 2006. Most R32s exported out of Japan copped a 50k km haircut in the 90s, then a 75k km haircut in the 2000s.

[joshuaho96]

On 10/10/2022 at 12:33 PM, reallyspeedly said:

 

If there are -5 turbos in, i belive i will probably atleast need to go for around 400whp? Since this incrase in power i will need more fuel, so what steps are recommended here then? Fuelpump is planned, i dont know the injectors size yet but let's say they are oem. And for the fpr etc?
Is there anything else i will need to think of to be able to run these figures with this turbos? 

I will contact my tuner for more details since he said that he had great results with these turbos. And as far as i can remember, there were -5 turbo installed.

-5 turbos are going to be sized for like 600 crank hp. So yes you will need injectors, you will need a fuel pump. If your tuner is using a standalone ECU it will be pretty trivial to wire up either a brushless controller with a flow control signal or a simple PWM with a solid state relay as mentioned earlier. I strongly recommend PWM control because for some effort invested in your ECU and wiring you can keep more things stock and makes more room in what is already a pretty cramped engine bay. If you control the fuel pump well enough the stock FPR is sufficient or a similar Nismo adjustable FPR. Hard wired to the ignition switch/main EFI relay at 100% duty cycle you're going to have to have enough return fuel capacity to absorb over 300 lph of fuel delivery at idle. This depends on your comfort with electronics though. Personally I have no problem wasting my life on code/staring at documentation if it means less mechanical complication but your opinion may differ.

[reallyspeedly]

21 hours ago, joshuaho96 said:

-5 turbos are going to be sized for like 600 crank hp. So yes you will need injectors, you will need a fuel pump. If your tuner is using a standalone ECU it will be pretty trivial to wire up either a brushless controller with a flow control signal or a simple PWM with a solid state relay as mentioned earlier. I strongly recommend PWM control because for some effort invested in your ECU and wiring you can keep more things stock and makes more room in what is already a pretty cramped engine bay. If you control the fuel pump well enough the stock FPR is sufficient or a similar Nismo adjustable FPR. Hard wired to the ignition switch/main EFI relay at 100% duty cycle you're going to have to have enough return fuel capacity to absorb over 300 lph of fuel delivery at idle. This depends on your comfort with electronics though. Personally I have no problem wasting my life on code/staring at documentation if it means less mechanical complication but your opinion may differ.

Are we talking 600 nomial hp or upper limit? Where's the lower limit you think i could go with the -5's? 

There is a older LINK G4 ECU i think. Well i dont know about that brushless controller or PWM with a SSR setup (never heard of) it, the only thing i've heard is that a mechanical relay and power from the battery is enough to make sure that the pump get's full voltage, If im going for PWM/SSR or Brushless controller i would need some more data about how to carrie out that procedure. Is there any information/documentations about the PWM/SSR setup? Why would i need a flow control signal to the fuel pump? Sorry, im really curious and want to understand and im not asking because i think it sounds stupid or anything.. 
wasting your life? Well, if you enjoy it you're not wasting shit.. If you dont, well why are you doing it. I wouldnt mind to get some more experience and put my head into the books/code/documentation if i knew where to start.
#builtnotbought

Thanks.



 

[reallyspeedly]

 

On 10/10/2022 at 9:51 PM, Duncan said:

Since you have some sort of ECU just take the trigger wire from the ECU to standard fuel pump relay, run a fused wire from the battery to a new relay and replace the fuel pump ground with one direct to chassis. This will bypass the factory fuel resistor and upgrade the wiring giving about 10% more voltage to the pump

 

 

21 hours ago, joshuaho96 said:

-5 turbos are going to be sized for like 600 crank hp. So yes you will need injectors, you will need a fuel pump. If your tuner is using a standalone ECU it will be pretty trivial to wire up either a brushless controller with a flow control signal or a simple PWM with a solid state relay as mentioned earlier. I strongly recommend PWM control because for some effort invested in your ECU and wiring you can keep more things stock and makes more room in what is already a pretty cramped engine bay. If you control the fuel pump well enough the stock FPR is sufficient or a similar Nismo adjustable FPR. Hard wired to the ignition switch/main EFI relay at 100% duty cycle you're going to have to have enough return fuel capacity to absorb over 300 lph of fuel delivery at idle. This depends on your comfort with electronics though. Personally I have no problem wasting my life on code/staring at documentation if it means less mechanical complication but your opinion may differ.

The example regarding the fuelpump from Duncan is the procedure i've heard about before.

[Duncan]

There are more modern ways to do it, but what I've described has been working fine on setups like this for 30 years....

[Murray_Calavera]

1 hour ago, reallyspeedly said:

Are we talking 600 nomial hp or upper limit? Where's the lower limit you think i could go with the -5's? 

There is a older LINK G4 ECU i think. Well i dont know about that brushless controller or PWM with a SSR setup (never heard of) it, the only thing i've heard is that a mechanical relay and power from the battery is enough to make sure that the pump get's full voltage, If im going for PWM/SSR or Brushless controller i would need some more data about how to carrie out that procedure. Is there any information/documentations about the PWM/SSR setup? Why would i need a flow control signal to the fuel pump? Sorry, im really curious and want to understand and im not asking because i think it sounds stupid or anything.. 
wasting your life? Well, if you enjoy it you're not wasting shit.. If you dont, well why are you doing it. I wouldnt mind to get some more experience and put my head into the books/code/documentation if i knew where to start.
#builtnotbought

Thanks.



 

If you can control the flow rate of the fuel pump, you can supply the required amount of fuel and limit the amount that needs to be returned by the fuel pressure regulator. 

I think the idea from Joshuaho96 was that you could keep the stock fuel pressure regulator by keeping the flow rate to something that it can handle. 

Another benefit might be that the fuel temperatures are kept lower. If you were say sitting idle in traffic with your fuel pump flowing full tilt, a lot of fuel will being pumped on an around the world trip through the engine bay, being heated and returning to the tank. So slowly the temperature of the fuel creeps up as more and more of these trips are completed. 

Having said all that, my fuel pump flows 525LPH and I have it setup to run full tilt all the time. I haven't had any issues and I've been doing this for many years. 

To save space in the engine bay I've got one of these which goes on the rail in the stock location. I don't think I'll ever outgrow it either, it can handle over 1,200LPH. 

http://www.radiumauto.com/DMR-Direct-Mount-Regulator-P1951.aspx

[joshuaho96]

4 hours ago, reallyspeedly said:

Are we talking 600 nomial hp or upper limit? Where's the lower limit you think i could go with the -5's? 

There is a older LINK G4 ECU i think. Well i dont know about that brushless controller or PWM with a SSR setup (never heard of) it, the only thing i've heard is that a mechanical relay and power from the battery is enough to make sure that the pump get's full voltage, If im going for PWM/SSR or Brushless controller i would need some more data about how to carrie out that procedure. Is there any information/documentations about the PWM/SSR setup? Why would i need a flow control signal to the fuel pump? Sorry, im really curious and want to understand and im not asking because i think it sounds stupid or anything.. 
wasting your life? Well, if you enjoy it you're not wasting shit.. If you dont, well why are you doing it. I wouldnt mind to get some more experience and put my head into the books/code/documentation if i knew where to start.
#builtnotbought

Thanks.



 

-5s generally speaking can do 500 whp. If you push them hard with enough octane and supporting modifications 550 whp should be doable. Solid state relays are the same basic idea as a mechanical relay. You apply a voltage to turn them on and off. The difference is that unlike mechanical relays they can be switched at relatively high frequencies like 60 hz. PWM a normal mechanical relay that quickly and it will die in something like 10 minutes.

The idea is pretty simple. You would buy a relay like this one and make sure to put a heatsink or something on it: https://www.haltech.com/product/ht-030202-solid-state-relay-100-amp/

Then you follow the directions for ground switching the pump. In the ECU you would set up a table for your auxiliary digital output that would be PWM percentage with respect to say TPS percentage and RPM. To just get the car running you would just say 30% duty cycle at idle regions, 50% at cruise, then 100% at WOT. It doesn't need to be super precise like injector fuel delivery so just getting it close enough is fine. I recommend looking at this to get an idea for what kind of PWM frequency you need to achieve to keep the pump relatively consistent in flow instead of changing wildly as the relay turns on and off: https://www.portescap.com/en/newsroom/2022/03/controlling-brushed-dc-motors-using-pwm

The OEM fuel pump control module is doing the same kind of idea, except unlike this solid state relay it is just switching between resistors on the ground path which means most of the fuel pump power at idle is being wasted as heat in a resistor. Solid state relays do waste some power but far less. 

[reallyspeedly]

On 10/10/2022 at 9:51 PM, Duncan said:

 

Re transfer case, correct it fills just like the gearbox. It takes ATF, I use Castrol Transmax Z in the race car.  The ATTESSA system takes the same stuff and you bleed it at 2 nipples; first at the rear of the transfer case and then above the rear driveshaft. When the engine is running or that bypass connector is open the pump bleeds continuously.

Changed some oils today.. MOTUL 300 in the gearbox, MOTUL ATF in the transfer case, Liquid moly hypoid in the front diff. 

I found a drain plug at the rear of the gearbox ( picture ). Which oil drains from there?? Could not find anything after a quick look in the manual. Drain plug for the gearbox is located more in the fwd direction, this one was aft.

[Duncan]

Hard to be sure without more context in the picture, but likely that is the transfer case oil drain. The fill is higher and on the side (or, you could fill the transfer case through the shifter, not the shifter does not go into the gearbox case so you can't fill gearbox oil that way).

You said you put Motul ATF in the transfer case, how did you drain it first?

[reallyspeedly]

10 hours ago, Duncan said:

Hard to be sure without more context in the picture, but likely that is the transfer case oil drain. The fill is higher and on the side (or, you could fill the transfer case through the shifter, not the shifter does not go into the gearbox case so you can't fill gearbox oil that way).

You said you put Motul ATF in the transfer case, how did you drain it first?

(pic from google) 

I drained oil and filled oil were the plugs are in this picture. The other drain plug was right below of the shifter. 

The gearbox oil i filled and drained through the hoiles thats more in the middle of the gearbox that you can see in this picture also

Edited October 16, 2022 by reallyspeedly

[reallyspeedly]

3 hours ago, reallyspeedly said:

The other drain plug was right below ( underside of the gearbox) of the shifter. #EDIT " The drain plug i was talking about which i didnt know anything about "

 

 

Edited October 16, 2022 by reallyspeedly