Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, just after some feedback on these modifications. I am still in the planning stages for my build, I am aiming for 250-270kw in my 98 R34 GTT with 90,000km on it.

-Hypergear ATR43 0.63 rear housing internally gated with bush bearing 
-340L/H fuel pump
-750cc injectors
-Spitfire coilpacks 
-3" turbo back exhaust/ hi flow cat
-3" intake pipe
-Nistune ECU

-Will the 0.63 rear housing be too small?

-Is it worth the extra $400 for a ball bearing over a journal bearing ? I'd rather put the money towards a custom intake/ exhaust 


Thanks legends 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/484279-advice-on-my-r34-gtt-build/
Share on other sites

As above, good choices for intended target power but inevitably like most skyline owners you will want more in the future. I would go for 1000cc injectors for some future proofing in case you want to run E85 and hit the 350+rwkw range. Definitely go the ball bearing option, will make it so much nicer with that turbo. 

Alternatively, you could just highflow the stock turbo with bb option. Will still make your power target on p98 and capable of around 325rwkw on E85, be a little more responsive. 

If your car doesn't already have a decent clutch in it, you'll need to get something like an npc or exedy to handle the power increase. 

38 minutes ago, dyl33 said:

I've got a similar setup on my series 2 rb25det but using the Hypergear ATR45SAT and it makes those numbers on 15-17psi. Goes good. NEO will go better.

Get the ball bearing option.

Do you have any issues with lag?

1 hour ago, admS15 said:

Alternatively, you could just highflow the stock turbo with bb option. Will still make your power target on p98 and capable of around 325rwkw on E85, be a little more responsive.

I considered this but I thought for future proofing I should go the ATR43 with larger intake, even with the extra hassle to install it. I can always change the injectors out later 

  • Like 1
37 minutes ago, harambe34 said:

I considered this but I thought for future proofing I should go the ATR43 with larger intake, even with the extra hassle to install it. I can always change the injectors out later 

Do you already have the injectors? 

750cc injectors or 1000cc injectors will costs around the same money and both will be easy to tune. Why not pick up the 1000cc injectors to start with and save yourself the time and hassle in the future?

  • Like 2
1 hour ago, Murray_Calavera said:

Do you already have the injectors? 

750cc injectors or 1000cc injectors will costs around the same money and both will be easy to tune. Why not pick up the 1000cc injectors to start with and save yourself the time and hassle in the future?

Absolutely, it's not 2005 anymore. With the Bosch EV14 injectors there is no reason to use anything smaller than 1000cc injectors when upgrading these days.

  • Like 1
2 hours ago, Murray_Calavera said:

Do you already have the injectors? 

750cc injectors or 1000cc injectors will costs around the same money and both will be easy to tune. Why not pick up the 1000cc injectors to start with and save yourself the time and hassle in the future?

I've found some Deatchwerks 1000cc injectors and Raceworks 1200cc injectors for $720. Is there such thing as too big with injectors? Will it still idle and drive properly?

2 hours ago, harambe34 said:

I've found some Deatchwerks 1000cc injectors and Raceworks 1200cc injectors for $720. Is there such thing as too big with injectors? Will it still idle and drive properly?

Yeah you could go 'too big' with injectors, but you won't run into those issues with 1000cc injectors. They will idle and drive like factory. 

Is there any reason you don't want to use a Bosch EV14 injector? They aren't expensive and are proven to be a good thing. 

2 hours ago, harambe34 said:

I've found some Deatchwerks 1000cc injectors and Raceworks 1200cc injectors for $720. Is there such thing as too big with injectors? Will it still idle and drive properly?

Yoh can go too big if the injectors or ECU can't control the opening and closing minimum pulse width required to make the car idle. Back in the day before EV14 injectors 1000cc EV1 injectors like Sard, Denso, Nismo etc. would be about is big as you could go without running into problems at low load. Even then 1000cc could cause issues with their ability to open and close properly at 1% duty cycles, hence using something like 600 - 800 to combat this. Now its not an issue as the newer design with bigger flow injectors can pulse width control much more accurately at lower duty cycles unless you go to something stupid like over 2000cc on unleaded.

12 minutes ago, Murray_Calavera said:

Yeah you could go 'too big' with injectors, but you won't run into those issues with 1000cc injectors. They will idle and drive like factory. 

Is there any reason you don't want to use a Bosch EV14 injector? They aren't expensive and are proven to be a good thing. 

I literally just swapped injectors on one of the cars last month to the 1200cc EV14 injectors from Kudos Motorsports - idles better than my 33 which still has shitty Denso 700cc's. The ones Raceworks are selling are the same as the Kudos Motorsports ones, which are the Bosch EV14 040 980cc injector but modified.  They flow either 1200cc, 1250cc or 1300cc at 3 bar depending on which batch in flow matching they come from. I have the blue dot which is 1200cc.

As far as injector choices go I recommend staying with unmodified injectors if you don't need the extra flow, usually high-flowing injectors is done by removing the diffuser plate which impacts atomization and spray pattern especially because these aren't air assisted injectors.

16 hours ago, joshuaho96 said:

As far as injector choices go I recommend staying with unmodified injectors if you don't need the extra flow, usually high-flowing injectors is done by removing the diffuser plate which impacts atomization and spray pattern especially because these aren't air assisted injectors.

Yeah someone out there around here is removing the cap and selling to different places like Raceworks and Kudos to distribute / resell. I do agree in principle with not doing injector modification, but honestly who gives a f**k if it actually works ? After seeing the real world results, not your theoretical take on it, the difference over the unmodified EV1 standard style injectors to a modified decapped EV14 is night and day. Whatever afr you target it does precisely and accurately.

Admittedly I use unmodified versions of the Bosch EV14 333 1550cc/1650cc on the blue 32 because the flow level of these is enough for what I need. But even then if you needed more, the Bosch EV14s are modified in this exact way by ID. Like the ID1700X is still a decapped 333 to get their flow increases, and then you are just paying  for their ultra precise not just static but dynamic flow matching.

People are still paying and using shitty Nismo EV1 injectors like the factory design, which is far from optimal even compared to a decapped EV14 which is just crazy.

  • Like 2
22 hours ago, BK said:

Yeah someone out there around here is removing the cap and selling to different places like Raceworks and Kudos to distribute / resell. I do agree in principle with not doing injector modification, but honestly who gives a f**k if it actually works ? After seeing the real world results, not your theoretical take on it, the difference over the unmodified EV1 standard style injectors to a modified decapped EV14 is night and day. Whatever afr you target it does precisely and accurately.

Admittedly I use unmodified versions of the Bosch EV14 333 1550cc/1650cc on the blue 32 because the flow level of these is enough for what I need. But even then if you needed more, the Bosch EV14s are modified in this exact way by ID. Like the ID1700X is still a decapped 333 to get their flow increases, and then you are just paying  for their ultra precise not just static but dynamic flow matching.

People are still paying and using shitty Nismo EV1 injectors like the factory design, which is far from optimal even compared to a decapped EV14 which is just crazy.

I think we’re in agreement here. To me it’s more about reducing cost/risk. If you know you’ll never need more flow you can get the stock injectors with the factory binning. If you do need the extra flow though a good decapped EV14 is fine. 

On 17/12/2022 at 5:39 PM, joshuaho96 said:

I think we’re in agreement here. To me it’s more about reducing cost/risk. If you know you’ll never need more flow you can get the stock injectors with the factory binning. If you do need the extra flow though a good decapped EV14 is fine. 

👍Here is the end of the decapped 040 flowing 1200cc

20221126_113811.thumb.jpg.ec756abdb9e54c41b7ecfd81df914009.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, apparently they do fit, however this wont be a problem if not because the car will be stationary while i do the suspension work. I was just going to use the 16's to roll the old girl around if I needed to. I just need to get the E90 back on the road first. Yes! I'm a believer! 🙌 So, I contacted them because the site kinda sucks and I was really confused about what I'd need. They put together a package for me and because I was spraying all the seat surfaces and not doing spot fixes I decided not to send them a headrest to colour match, I just used their colour on file (and it was spot on).  I got some heavy duty cleaner, 1L of colour, a small bottle of dye hardener and a small bottle of the dye top coat. I also got a spray gun as I needed a larger nozzle than the gun I had and it was only $40 extra. From memory the total was ~$450 ish. Its not cheap but the result is awesome. They did add repair bits and pieces to the quote originally and the cost came down significantly when I said I didn't need any repair products. I did it over a weekend. The only issues I had were my own; I forgot to mix the hardener into the dye two coats but I had enough dye for 2 more coats with the hardener. I also just used up all the dye because why not and i rushed the last coat which gave me some runs. Thankfully the runs are under the headrests. The gun pattern wasn't great, very round and would have been better if it was a line. It made it a little tricky to get consistent coverage and I think having done the extra coats probably helped conceal any coverage issues. I contacted them again a few months later so I could get our X5 done (who the f**k thought white leather was a good idea for a family car?!) and they said they had some training to do in Sydney and I could get a reduced rate on the leather fix in the X5 if I let them demo their product on our car. So I agreed. When I took Bec in the E39 to pick it up, I showed them the job I'd done in my car and they were all (students included) really impressed. Note that they said the runs I created could be fixed easily at the time with a brush or an air compressor gun. So, now with the two cars done I can absolutely recommend Colourlock.  I'll take pics of both interiors and create a new thread.
    • Power is fed to the ECU when the ignition switch is switched to IGN, at terminal 58. That same wire also connects to the ECCS relay to provide both the coil power and the contact side. When the ECU sees power at 58 it switches 16 to earth, which pulls the ECCS relay on, which feeds main power into the ECU and also to a bunch of other things. None of this is directly involved in the fuel pump - it just has to happen first. The ECU will pull terminal 18 to earth when it wants the fuel pump to run. This allows the fuel pump relay to pull in, which switches power on into the rest of the fuel pump control equipment. The fuel pump control regulator is controlled from terminal 104 on the ECU and is switched high or low depending on whether the ECU thinks the pump needs to run high or low. (I don't know which way around that is, and it really doesn't matter right now). The fuel pump control reg is really just a resistor that controls how the power through the pump goes to earth. Either straight to earth, or via the resistor. This part doesn't matter much to us today. The power to the fuel pump relay comes from one of the switched wires from the IGN switch and fusebox that is not shown off to the left of this page. That power runs the fuel pump relay coil and a number of other engine peripherals. Those peripherals don't really matter. All that matters is that there should be power available at the relay when the key is in the right position. At least - I think it's switched. If it's not switched, then power will be there all the time. Either way, if you don't have power there when you need it (ie, key on) then it won't work. The input-output switching side of the relay gains its power from a line similar (but not the same as) the one that feeds the ECU. SO I presume that is switched. Again, if there is not power there when you need it, then you have to look upstream. And... the upshot of all that? There is no "ground" at the fuel pump relay. Where you say: and say that pin 1 Black/Pink is ground, that is not true. The ECU trigger is AF73, is black/pink, and is the "ground". When the ECU says it is. The Blue/White wire is the "constant" 12V to power the relay's coil. And when I say "constant", I mean it may well only be on when the key is on. As I said above. So, when the ECU says not to be running the pump (which is any time after about 3s of switching on, with no crank signal or engine speed yet), then you should see 12V at both 1 and 2. Because the 12V will be all the way up to the ECU terminal 18, waiting to be switched to ground. When the ECU switches the fuel pump on, then AF73 should go to ~0V, having been switched to ground and the voltage drop now occurring over the relay coil. 3 & 5 are easy. 5 is the other "constant" 12V, that may or may not be constant but will very much want to be there when the key is on. Same as above. 3 goes to the pump. There should never be 12V visible at 3 unless the relay is pulled in. As to where the immobiliser might have been spliced into all this.... It will either have to be on wire AF70 or AF71, whichever is most accessible near the alarm. Given that all those wires run from the engine bay fusebox or the ECU, via the driver's area to the rear of the car, it could really be either. AF70 will be the same colour from the appropriate fuse all the way to the pump. If it has been cut and is dangling, you should be able to see that  in that area somewhere. Same with AF71.   You really should be able to force the pump to run. Just jump 12V onto AF72 and it should go. That will prove that the pump itself is willing to go along with you when you sort out the upstream. You really should be able to force the fuel pump relay on. Just short AF73 to earth when the key is on. If the pump runs, then the relay is fine, and all the power up to both inputs on the relay is fine. If it doesn't run (and given that you checked the relay itself actually works) then one or both of AF70 and AF71 are not bringing power to the game.
    • @PranK can you elaborate further on the Colorlock Dye? The website has a lot of options. I'm sure you've done all the research. I have old genuine leather seats that I have bought various refurbing creams and such, but never a dye. Any info on how long it lasts? Does it wash out? Is it a hassle? What product do I actually need? Am I just buying this kit and following the steps the page advises or something else? https://www.colourlockaustralia.com.au/colourlock-leather-repair-kit-dye.html
    • These going to fit over the big brakes? I'd be reeeeeeeeaaaall hesitant to believe so.
    • The leather work properly stunned me. Again, I am thankful that the leather was in such good condition. I'm not sure what the indent is at the top of the passenger seat. Like somebody was sitting in it with a golf ball between their shoulders. The wheels are more grey than silver now and missing a lot of gloss.  Here's one with nice silver wheels.
×
×
  • Create New...