how should I fix these blemishes?

[PranK]

Because I'm a sucker for punishment I bought another E90 but this one came with a less than perfect body and I'm keen to fix it.

This one isn't too deep and it looks like somebody has just hit it with a can of genetic silver spray paint. I'm assuming I'll sand the clear and colour and then fix with some filler?

I was going to try and pull these out with my puller but that bottom crease is hard! There is access behind but it's really tight. Might be able to get a PDR style pry tool behind.

Would love some advice.

Thanks guys

[Ben C34]

You take it to a crash shop and pay the money.....

[Duncan]

20 minutes ago, Ben C34 said:

You take it to a crash shop and pay the money.....

don't know if you saw, but he bought a BMW, wouldn't be worth it to fix professionally.

I reckon do the same as Marty did on Kel's march super turbo; just get a vaguely similar colour spray can and shoot in the general direction

[The Bogan]

Plenty at the wreckers, new guard and boot maybe???

 

[Kinkstaah]

It's beyond saving. Convert to E90 drift car.

[PranK]

Thanks all

New boot definitely an option @The Bogan - about $300 for a good'un.

Its that guard though. Surely I can make it look better without taking it to 'the man'.

 

[admS15]

I agree with the new 2nd hand boot option. You could as you said in the first post sand/fill the guard. It's going to be tricky to get a satisfactory finish diy painting it. Maybe just get a quote from a shop to just repair that part and see if it's economical enough. If not, just sand/fill/smooth. Get a can of paint mixed up and watch plenty of YouTube vids on how to to a blend in.

[PranK]

1 hour ago, admS15 said:

I agree with the new 2nd hand boot option. You could as you said in the first post sand/fill the guard. It's going to be tricky to get a satisfactory finish diy painting it. Maybe just get a quote from a shop to just repair that part and see if it's economical enough. If not, just sand/fill/smooth. Get a can of paint mixed up and watch plenty of YouTube vids on how to to a blend in.

Doesn't need to be perfect. Its the 2nd family car after all and, despite my emotions, gets beat up a bit.

I was thinking a can of body colour and clear, sand, fill, smooth as you said and do a soft-edge spray job on it. Wouldn't be worse than it is now.

[admS15]

On 06/01/2023 at 3:25 PM, PranK said:

Doesn't need to be perfect. Its the 2nd family car after all and, despite my emotions, gets beat up a bit.

I was thinking a can of body colour and clear, sand, fill, smooth as you said and do a soft-edge spray job on it. Wouldn't be worse than it is now.

Sounds like a plan. 

[Murray_Calavera]

10 hours ago, PranK said:

Doesn't need to be perfect. Its the 2nd family car after all and, despite my emotions, gets beat up a bit.

I was thinking a can of body colour and clear, sand, fill, smooth as you said and do a soft-edge spray job on it. Wouldn't be worse than it is now.

If you're going to do the repair, there isn't any reason why you can't get it looking pretty much factory. 

In no particular order - 

* Get a good colour match paint. I've had really good experiences with VG Auto Paints: Automotive Paint Supplies.

* Use a proper 2K clear (it will have a button on the bottom of the can to release the hardener) and good quality primer. 

* Take the time required to prep/repair the damage. Ensure the filler is 1000% perfect and smooth before painting, eg if the 2 part filler is giving you tiny pin holes when it cures, use a single step filler to fill the pin holes. You can't rush or cheat out this step, it takes as long as it takes. 

* Don't try and blend the clear coat. You could blend the colour, but you might as well use the entire can and colour and clear the entire panel. The 2K clear will only last a few days once activated anyways so at least it will all get used. 

* Have a good respirator. 2K paint isn't friendly. 

* You'll probably have a pretty orange peel y result using rattle cans. Nothing 1000 / 2000 grit sand paper and cutting / buffing compound can't fix. 

It really isn't that much more effort to get the factory result, you're already in there doing the repair, might as well make it perfect. 

[PranK]

That's brilliant, thanks @Murray_Calavera

Considering it's the rear quarter, that's a lot to repaint with the rattle can. I'm worried about my results. 😬

I do have an air compressor but spraying has always been something I'm a little worried about.

If I'm spraying outside is it only a respirator I need? I know you need a full suit when in the booth.

Really awesome advice, thanks!

[PranK]

Btw I have previously tried to spray a front bar in my backyard using acrylic and it sucked. Bad.

[Kinkstaah]

11 minutes ago, PranK said:

Btw I have previously tried to spray a front bar in my backyard using acrylic and it sucked. Bad.

Thats the thing about painting in general. It sucks the first 200 times, and then you think it sucks the next 1000 times, but other people say "Nah its actually good!" at that point. There's not much in the way of shortcuts.

[Murray_Calavera]

1 minute ago, PranK said:

That's brilliant, thanks @Murray_Calavera

Considering it's the rear quarter, that's a lot to repaint with the rattle can. I'm worried about my results. 😬

I do have an air compressor but spraying has always been something I'm a little worried about.

If I'm spraying outside is it only a respirator I need? I know you need a full suit when in the booth.

Really awesome advice, thanks!

Ohh it's the rear quarter  I was thinking it was a front guard....

Can you upload another photo showing the entire panel? 

What we need are natural body lines/panel gaps where you can stop spraying the clear. Ideally a panel gap. This is because blending the clear coat is not an option. 

I'll post an example photo. Say the damage is the red X, then I would colour over the damage and re-clear the entire area in yellow using the body lines to hide the blend point. 

If I'm spraying 2K, I wear a respirator, paint suit and gloves. A disposable paint suit is only around $30 so I don't see any reason not to use one. 

I have a feeling your air compressor might not be up to the task, you really want something at least this size to feed a spray gun - https://sydneytools.com.au/product/chicago-hush150-silenced-150l-air-compressor

[Murray_Calavera]

22 minutes ago, PranK said:

Btw I have previously tried to spray a front bar in my backyard using acrylic and it sucked. Bad.

If your a bit worried about working on the BMW straight up, you could go to your local wreckers and pick up a cheap panel and use it to practice on first. 

Once you're happy with the results you can achieve on the practice panel, you could move over to working on your car. 

[PranK]

Thanks again for this help.

Here's the entire panel.

 

There's a few other scratches and dings in front of the filler but it's all straight behind it. The shadow makes it look a little wonky.

[Murray_Calavera]

1 hour ago, PranK said:

Thanks again for this help.

Here's the entire panel.

There's a few other scratches and dings in front of the filler but it's all straight behind it. The shadow makes it look a little wonky.

This would be the cheapest way to paint it. Blend the colour over the damage and clear over the red highlighted area. 

What you would do is back-mask using that body line. Here is a good example video of the technique. 

 

[PranK]

Thanks again for this help, hugely appreciated.

Bloody car lost its water pump last night so its in the shop getting that and some rattly wastegates fixed for the next few days. Will formulate a plan of attack for the body when she's back.

[funkymonkey]

In for a penny, in for a pound:
https://fenderist.com/fe90001

budget and/or lazy option - maybe just get those over arch stickers that are body colour coded?

[niZmO_Man]

On 11/01/2023 at 5:16 PM, PranK said:

Bloody car lost its water pump

A friend of mine had a 320i years back and the same thing happened to him. Bloody plastic parts in engines should be outlawed.