Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Good afternoon,

I've got a leak out of one of the half-shafts and need to replace the seal.

I've searched for a guide/another thread, nut can't seem to find one (happy to be corrected)

What is the method for removing/reinstalling the half shaft after replacing the seal.

 

Cheers

received_918381569340257.jpeg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/484428-removing-half-shaft-from-diff-r33/
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, Pattey21 said:

Good afternoon,

I've got a leak out of one of the half-shafts and need to replace the seal.

I've searched for a guide/another thread, nut can't seem to find one (happy to be corrected)

What is the method for removing/reinstalling the half shaft after replacing the seal.

 

Cheers

received_918381569340257.jpeg

When I had to do this for the front diff I removed the diff cover and spun the diff until I could see the axle inside the diff. Then I used a plastic pry tool with a simple flat edge that gradually widens to full width and a hammer. Jam the pry tool in and use a hammer until the axle pops out. As far as I can tell it did not mar or bend any other parts of the diff this way. My least favorite thing is scraping/prying something out with metal on metal so this was a foolproof technique for me and the car needed a diff oil change pretty badly anyways. Then I used a slide hammer with an expanding jaw puller to remove the seal itself. Be careful when you do this because it will suck to damage the seat of the seal. I expanded it into the rubber to keep it from marring the seat instead of trying to catch the back edge where it meets the seat.

Another method I've seen since doing that job was a tool that hooks onto the outside of the axle and makes it possible to slide hammer the axle out instead of trying to use a pry bar.

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

So i refilled it and layed it on its side for a day (new seal side down) no leak, went for a drive today and its weeping. Is it possible to be weeping from the half shaft seal, do the take time to bed in?

The seal cam pre-greased in the centre and i lubricated the shaft prior to install.

7 hours ago, Pattey21 said:

I didn't inspect it thoroughly but my impression when cleaning it prior to lubrication, was the it was "serviceable" but my focus was more on the seal itself.

Not 100% across this half shaft in particular as I haven't removed one, but it will be pretty much the same as others...

 

The surface the seal rests on on the half shaft itself can also wear. If it starts to wear down, it's not going to mate and seal properly. 

When doing the seal, you need to be checking the inner and outer surfaces it mates to, are in good condition too.

 

Is the oil weep 100% coming from the half shaft seal location?

Have you checked the breathers/vents aren't blocked?

Blocked vents will bust an axle seal/make them weep. This could be why it only showed after a drive, as it needed to heat up and pressurise first (diff unable to breath)

  • 2 weeks later...

Hectic few weeks at work.

I made sure to clear/check the diff vent but I will check the breather hose.

My guess for it being the half shaft seal location is based on filling it prior and lying it on the damaged side overnight and it did not weep.

ill have another look underneath/ check the breather hose

 

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I sense an out of control build thread coming up lololol. That 450kW goal will end up being 600 to 700kW LOL.
    • Nice, thanks for sharing your progress....that's a pretty long list you are putting into it!
    • Decided to upgrade my pressurised plastic coolant expansion tank for a fancy pants alloy version The OEM versions can get brittle, even the new plastic one I got when I first got the car is a starting to show signs of "stress" I wasn't cheap, but it is basically unbreakable
    • Morning all, I have an RB25DET Neo that's in need of a rebuild. Will need new pistons etc due to detonation damage. Would anyone be able to recommend a shop in Southeast Queensland who I could bring my long motor to for a rebuild? Just want someone who knows RBs and whos built a bunch of them before. TLDR - recommended engine shops for RB rebuild.
    • Gday Thought it was about time I started a build thread! As expected this project has snowballed into a huge financial liability, but unless you’re strong willed and responsible, it’s not a surprise. Background -  My first turbo car was an R32 GTS-4, got my full license and then totalled my Au Falcon a week later, so while trying to sell my RMZ450 dirtbike to buy another car a bloke offered to swap the R32 which at the time I felt like I was ripped off but looking back and seeing prices of those now ($40kish) it was a good deal, I didn’t know enough about these cars to appreciate what I had so sold it before the RB20 blew up. Between here and there, out of 12 cars I’ve owned the note worthy ones are a V8 Lexus SC400 (soarer), a couple of XR6 Turbos and my beloved S15 which I had for about 3 years, picked it up for $12500, repairable write off but she was fine, gun metal grey/pewter and bone stock/unmolested until I got my hands on it. Ended up spending about the value of the car and 280kw, 2 demerit points by the time I got defected and sold it for $14500 (also $40kish in today’s market, rip) Fast forward to the present day, I’m in a much better position financially and daily an MQ Triton (great cars, pipe down Ranger Bois), I cruised marketplace and car sales for a few months looking for another R32, the best deal I could find was an absolute rust bucket half finished project for $12000, until this R33 popped up in Port Macquarie for $18k - unregistered and barely running but decent shape, kept an eye on it for a few weeks and the price steadily dropped, $16k then $15k then $14k, that was the point where I was like shit someone’s gonna snatch this up! It was owned by a young bloke who had big plans but him and his missus just had a baby so smartest move financially for them but big gain for me. So 2 days later I’m towing a car trailer to pick this thing up. Roughly 2 weeks and $3500 later I’m cruising around Newcastle in my beat up R33 all smiles and dose noises! It only needed some basic shit to get it going, coil packs and air flow meter, electrical stuff and all fluids changed, 158k kms and running pretty good, nice smooth engine after oil and coolant flush - when I say coolant I mean it had been filled up with tap water, every gallery and heater element was filled with rust, 8-9 flushes later and still had brown liquid coming out but she’ll be right. The car was painted R34 Bayside Blue at some point but whether it was a cheap job or just not looked after is anyone’s guess, clear coat flaking like sausage roll.  Was rethinking my choices and contemplating life, had it up for sale for $22k - still cheaper than any registered R33 but got little interest, next minute I had an opportunity at work - 6 months overseas for good money, so that was a no brainer, fast forward again and here we are with a 50% finished project. Current Mods - 200ish KW according to butt dyno Was tuned with Apexi PowerFC EBC (old school Greddy Profec)  Stock turbo (more shaft play than a Tinder date gone right) 3inch turbo back Varex muffler  Aftermarket injectors of mystery size, Power FC showed 36% duty cycle at full boost so not behd good size Someone had good intentions but stuck with the stock R33 MAF so we had misfires at 6000rpm due to the MAF hitting 5.2V So far I’ve redone the entire interior with carpet form Car Mats Direct, new Seats and steering wheel from Autotechnica, also sound system by Autobarn (mainly Kicker) Also MCA pro comfort coil overs - Hands down best purchase yet, worlds of improvement over the tired 30yrold shocks Goals - 450kw/600hp on flex tune New paint job - Midnight Purple 2 Engine is at the shop getting rebuilt with forged rods a pistons, new valves and springs, ATI Harmonic balancer, Aeroflow 7.5L sump, rear head drain and oil restrictors as per oil control thread* and cam covers modded for larger breathers, other stuff I can’t recall of the top of my head Parts purchased and to be installed once the engine is done -  Engine loom from Wiring Specialties including these options: Haltech Nexus S3 R35 Coil pack conversion  PRP Dual Trigger kit Fan controller  Other Parts -  262 Kelford Cams Turbo - Hypergear ATR43SS3-ProS with T51R mod (whistly boi) 6 boost manifold (high mount) 50mm Turbosmart Pro gate (plumbed back for legal reasons) HKS Super Turbo Exhaust with High Flow Cat Custom 3.5inch dump and front pipe 1500cc Bosch injectors  Fuel Pump walbro 525 Haltech MAP and IAT sensors Haltech Flex Sensor Fenix Radiator with dual thermo fans LS1 Alternator Kit Oil Filter Relocation from EFI solutions and Cooling pro oil cooler Many other things sitting in my garage waiting for that engine to come back. Progress pics to follow -  
×
×
  • Create New...