RB25DET NEO AWD into ECR33

[Blakeo]

Hi guys,

I was considering buying a RB25DET NEO AWD from a C34 Stageau. I was expecting to swap the sump and pickup and that was it, which is what the engine importer lead me to believe. 

Being cautious I did some research and it appears the oil pickup inlet on the block is in a different spot to the RWD so even using RWD pickup it will be in the wrong spot in relation to the sump? 

It also looks like the steel braces that go from the block to the gearbox are not able to be used when using the AWD block as the provisions for the brace to bolt to are not there. 

Can anyone please confirm the above, its hard to get a definite as posts are contradicting - I am hope someone here has done the conversion and can tell me from experience. 

Best regards,

Blake.

[GTSBoy]

These things are true.

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

Yes, I did the same thing before.

You'll need a new pick up, new sump. The brackets cannot be used. At the time I ended up an ASR kit, made for a RB26 to RWD conversion sump.

Food for thought, because the oil pick up is moved forward you'll in theory be pulling oil from a higher oil level when your rear end squats and/or your front end is elevated during heavy acceleration.

I cannot confirm if this is the root cause of my previously built motor lunching itself however it was due to oil starvation (which could have been from various things).

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

Here we go, some really old photos.

 

[Duncan]

The problems are in converting a 2rwd (eg rb30) block to 4wd, in that case the oil pickup fouls the front driveshaft in the sump, and the block is not drilled for 4wd sump bolts (thus the 2wd to 4wd conversion plates).

Using a 4wd block in 2wd should just be bolt on, noting the pickup location is different. It looks like the setup dose posted uses a custom pickup, probably because the sump well is deeper. If you try and move the pickup to the standard location you will have to drill to the oil gallery as the flange is in the casting but the feed is not drilled (and obviously you have to block the original pickup gallery with a plug)

[QLDR31]

If I was putting an awd engine into a rwd car. id keep the awd sump chop the front diff part off and weld up the holes. Hopefully there is no space issues with steering rack etc.

[joshuaho96]

6 hours ago, QLDR31 said:

If I was putting an awd engine into a rwd car. id keep the awd sump chop the front diff part off and weld up the holes. Hopefully there is no space issues with steering rack etc.

Pretty sure front vs rear sump is a matter of what will actually package for your particular swap. And if I could decide either way I suspect rear sump is better as under acceleration the oil probably can be controlled more easily with a rear sump. Front sump once it escapes the windage tray it really isn’t going to drain back until you let off. 

[WMDC35]

18 hours ago, QLDR31 said:

If I was putting an awd engine into a rwd car. id keep the awd sump chop the front diff part off and weld up the holes. Hopefully there is no space issues with steering rack etc.

This is what most people do, you have to grind the fins on the bottom of the sump for a bit of clearance.

 

12 hours ago, joshuaho96 said:

Pretty sure front vs rear sump is a matter of what will actually package for your particular swap. And if I could decide either way I suspect rear sump is better as under acceleration the oil probably can be controlled more easily with a rear sump. Front sump once it escapes the windage tray it really isn’t going to drain back until you let off. 

R33 is front sump, not many rb cars are rear sump, z31 rb20 is rear but haven't seen any others.

[GTSBoy]

38 minutes ago, WMDC35 said:

z31 rb20 is rear but haven't seen any others.

Patrol is either rear or mid, I think.

[Dylank]

So is it fine to not have any bracket from the engine to gearbox? Or do you need to get bolts drilled and tapped in the block

 

Cheers homies

[Duncan]

It would be better to have lower bolts between the block/sump and gearbox, but plenty of people go without, including my 400kw Stagea.

There are weld on extensions for the gearbox so it bolts up OK

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

20 minutes ago, Dylank said:

So is it fine to not have any bracket from the engine to gearbox?

I didn't have it with the last motor, and it visually it seemed fine.

Went to 2x track days and 2x skid pans with 407kW. Motor did explode afterwards, however no correlation to not using the brackets.

[Dylank]

Cheers guys I've got a mate doing the awd sim for me so I'll have the bottom bolts to use in bell housing. What did you guys do with the wiring and computer. Should I use the loom in my series 1 r33 gtst or the loom that can with neo stagea engine. 

[GTSBoy]

The only sensible option is to use the loom that suits the engine. There are sensor plug differences, and different sensors altogether.

[Dylank]

How does this work plugging it into a r33 computer? Or is engine and body different  

 

[GTSBoy]

Sorry. Didn't realise that was the plan.

Use the Neo ECU?

[WMDC35]

It's a blue plug 33 ecu/loom?

Probably the easiest way is to use all the 33 ancillaries on the neo, not ideal but works, nistune be a good idea, if it's alloy cas you'll have to reverse the wiring and coil mounts might be different, otherwise wire the neo loom in.

 

 

Edited October 12, 2023 by WMDC35

[GTSBoy]

41 minutes ago, WMDC35 said:

It's a blue plug 33 ecu/loom?

.... nistune be a good idea

Noting of course that Nistune is not an option in a 33 ECU.

[WMDC35]

24 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

Noting of course that Nistune is not an option in a 33 ECU.

Yep, need an r32 or z32 ecu or time for a new ecu, nothing cheap about keeping these cars running these days.

[GTSBoy]

1 hour ago, WMDC35 said:

need an r32 or z32

Or the more obvious choice now of the actual Neo ECU. No point in going sideways to go forwards. And then you really want to Nistune it anyway.