Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

24 minutes ago, r32-25t said:

There’s still a lot of work to go into that job, it won’t look anything like that when it’s finished 

But it shouldn't look like that now

Precedence should have seen the pole moved before the road was laid down when they decided to realign the road, it should have been moved before working the subgrade at the lesst, not after a base has gone down

Problems will occur after the pole is moved

I've built plenty of sealed and unsealed roads with my job, that there is poor engineering practices, there is no way that would cut the mustard where I work

I've seen plenty of roads that have needed upgraded drainage where they have dug trenches across existing roads to install culverts, within a few years, or something even months, the excavations will eventually consolidate causing low spots in the road surface, especially if they only use a whacker packer for compaction

That pole probably goes down 2 meters, that's a big excavation to remove it, or, like I've seen local councils do, dig down 500mm and cut the pole off, which works until the stump eventually rots and the ground above subsidies, leaving a depression which will eventually fail

We do alot of quality assurance IRT compaction density for our civil construction tasks, hell, one of my jobs is instructing on a course that deals alot with quality assurance, from Geo-technical site investigations for planning, using moisture mensity gauges or old school sand replacement tests, as well as best practice for all of our plant operators 

Looking at that pic makes my head hurt

Subsidence under a road is a bitch. 

Just look on rural highways, and along the shoulder randomly therell be subsidence holes, just small bumps. That's just from a core sample being taking as part of the construction, and that's what, a 3inch diameter hole at maximum?

 

But for removal of said post Mark, I'd recommend one of the big drill augers to drill a big ass hole straight down through it, and keep performing slow but continued filling and compaction. At least then it's not a huge hole having been dug, just one the diameter of a touch bigger than the post.

On 19/06/2023 at 6:23 PM, Duncan said:

I just wanted to share this effort from Goulburn Mulwaree council

image.jpeg

Full marks for resealing the road. Not so much for attention to detail.

ah nice, to re-fill the holes left from moving the poles will cost you +50% council fees from next quarter onwards.

On 4/4/2023 at 6:19 PM, Duncan said:

Ha! That thread has been up since you last logged on.

I have a bunch of other stuff to move, wait until the internet finds out I have a working Epson EJ1 I don't need.

So, I saw you uploaded a video to YouTube demo'ing the Epson EJ-1, I'm curious about it, what communication protocol does it use to the car to get the data for the display?

I feel that you need to get that display up and running in the GTR :P

Yeah I'm selling that shortly (once I get it boxed for postage). I've had it in the stagea for about 15 years but since I recently moved to Android/Realdash form the Link via CAN it is not needed any more

I think it is pretty impressive considering mid 90s electronics. It taps into ecu wires for RPM, speed, injector duty etc then displays values based on DIP switches. I had it set up for RB but it covers about 20 models from the era.

4 hours ago, Duncan said:

Yeah I'm selling that shortly (once I get it boxed for postage). I've had it in the stagea for about 15 years but since I recently moved to Android/Realdash form the Link via CAN it is not needed any more

I think it is pretty impressive considering mid 90s electronics. It taps into ecu wires for RPM, speed, injector duty etc then displays values based on DIP switches. I had it set up for RB but it covers about 20 models from the era.

A small can receiver with an Arduino, and a few lines of code and we could have hooked it up to the Link instead :P

  • 5 weeks later...
10 minutes ago, r32-25t said:

Was great, we are going back at the beginning of may. 

what have you been doing lately?

Wow! Loved it then. It’s my all time favourite destination. I think it gets cooler every time you go. 

Not much news my end! Same old! Biggest thing is that I’m trying to get a business off the ground. It’s a tad stressful but it’s now or never!

What about you? It’s been agessss!

8 minutes ago, Liz said:

Wow! Loved it then. It’s my all time favourite destination. I think it gets cooler every time you go. 

Not much news my end! Same old! Biggest thing is that I’m trying to get a business off the ground. It’s a tad stressful but it’s now or never!

What about you? It’s been agessss!

Definitely loved it, we spent a week in Tokyo this time and still think we could spend another 2 week there just seeing thing we missed.

business sounds fun, what type of industry is it in? 

I’ve basically just been working and building that same stupid car that every time I get close to finishing it I change something and send myself 10 steps backwards lol. Have you still got the dr30?

1 minute ago, r32-25t said:

Definitely loved it, we spent a week in Tokyo this time and still think we could spend another 2 week there just seeing thing we missed.

business sounds fun, what type of industry is it in? 

I’ve basically just been working and building that same stupid car that every time I get close to finishing it I change something and send myself 10 steps backwards lol. Have you still got the dr30?

Business is a retail advisory business specifically property. So helping retailers come up with a network strategy and then deliver, ie negotiate on their behalf to acquire the right locations at the right cost. I used to do this working for the actual retailer, but now I’m out on my own. 
 

Lol re car build! Thing is, when you finish a build you need to start again anyway…so I think it’s better to change the goal as you go…happy for you to steal my excuse

 

yeah I got the dr still, I’m trying to sell it now. I’ve advertised it for $35k

 

 

8 hours ago, Liz said:

Business is a retail advisory business specifically property. So helping retailers come up with a network strategy and then deliver, ie negotiate on their behalf to acquire the right locations at the right cost. I used to do this working for the actual retailer, but now I’m out on my own. 
 

Lol re car build! Thing is, when you finish a build you need to start again anyway…so I think it’s better to change the goal as you go…happy for you to steal my excuse

 

yeah I got the dr still, I’m trying to sell it now. I’ve advertised it for $35k

 

 

I’m going to have to because I ripped it heap of stuff of the other day and am talking to a fabricator to change a bunch of things 

 

I thought in todays market your car would fetch more then that, if not it would Al pay be worth sending it back to Japan and selling it to a collector over there 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...