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3 hours ago, MBS206 said:

Interestingly, I would have thought the oil would be warming the coolant up to begin with, and then the coolant keeping oil temps down.

 

From memory oil runs at around 2.6kj/degc, while water is around 4.7

Water capacity from memory is nearly 10L vs 5L for oil.

 

In my tired ass state, coolant would need to be seeing 4x more heat energy than the oil (which is quite possible, this is an aspect I have NFI on, and does seem very plausible).

 

It would be interesting if anyone has oil temp logging and coolant temp (coolant in the block, not the rad hose) with the stock heat exchanger in place.

But I'm guessing most people logging that sort of data these days are running aftermarket coolers and no exchanger.

 

It's a matter of where the heat is released and which fluid sees it first, rather than high falutin' thermodynamics stuff with specific heat capacity or how much of the stuff is in the engine.. Combustion happens in the head, which is heavy with water jackets.

  • Like 3
On 11/04/2023 at 10:13 PM, Murray_Calavera said:

@MBS206

I've got the factory heat exchanger, oil temp sensor in my sandwich plate and water temp sensor in the factory location. Happy to log data if you like. 

Just still trying to wrap my head around all of this as I'm still newbie in this field and still learning 

If you get an oil cooler kit that removes the factory HX but has an oil filter relocation with an inbuilt thermostat and the taarks oil block which allows for OEM pil pressure sensor and additional senskry ports for temp why would the factory HX still be required. Aren't all these components essentially working together to allow for warming/cooling of oil regardless of cold starts or not?

Example this kit I found has all components to allow for warming/cooling of oil regardless of cold start or drag/roll/circuit 

https://theskylineshed.com.au/products/the-skyline-shed-tss-oil-cooler-kit-to-suit-rb20-rb25-rb25neo-rb26-rb30?variant=41664869368002

 

 

 

 

36 minutes ago, YD34GTT said:

why would the factory HX still be required. Aren't all these components essentially working together to allow for warming/cooling of oil regardless of cold starts or not?

If you remove the factory water to oil HX, you do not get the warming aspect of that situation. Having the warming is a nicety that you can live without, probably unless you live in a real cold climate and would actually gain a reasonable sized benefit from keeping it.

  • Like 1
16 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

If you remove the factory water to oil HX, you do not get the warming aspect of that situation. Having the warming is a nicety that you can live without, probably unless you live in a real cold climate and would actually gain a reasonable sized benefit from keeping it.

Ahh ok so putting the taarks oil block with the sensors and the oil relocation with thermostat does not do what the factory HX does? (That's maybe where my thought process was wrong) I was under the assumption they replaced the factory HX and did a better job

14 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

No. Does physically replace the HX, does not replace its function.

Ahaa ok now it makes sense thanks heaps for clarity 

And sorry last question then everything will make sense for me in this regard 

So why do so many remove the HX if it's function isn't replaced? Is it not important or is it that it does not perform well with heavily modified engines 

Like if I remove mine and use those oil cooler kits am I at risk of anything (I live in Sydney if that helps with climate)

 

People remove it for simplicity and realistically... room. If you're adding stuff out there, real estate is a limited budget and the function of this device is minimal at best. Especially for people who have 500kw and want an oil cooler.

Supposedly they fail but it doesn't actually seem to happen that often. It's primarily because the space and simplicity given people are usually adding sensors, -AN lines in the area that used to be occupied by that HX.

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