Jump to content
SAU Community

RB25DET Help.


Recommended Posts

19 minutes ago, JayJay777 said:

damn that insane

Just proves you don't need a fancy intake plenum.

Current iteration I'm running a FFP, kind of a "might as well" moment because needed to fit DBW and delete all the garbage idle control leak valves and other useless crap.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Just proves you don't need a fancy intake plenum.

Current iteration I'm running a FFP, kind of a "might as well" moment because needed to fit DBW and delete all the garbage idle control leak valves and other useless crap.

the way im thinking about it is that if I get one now i wont have to get one later, another thing as well. to the dismay of someone else on this thread, i like the ffp because they look better, and because this is going to be a show car as well as hopefully a little beast, i wanna be able to open the bonnet and have it look nice and clean.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Assuming the ECU can control boost, all you need is a MAC valve, wiring and vacuum line plumbing.

For ECU, that's kind of like talking religion, politics or whether pineapple belongs on pizza. Anything except the standard, untuned ECU can work, in cost order

Nistune + z32 AFM + Boost controller

PowerFC + z32 AFM + Boost controller 

Link, Haltech basic models, they can run MAP and control boost so you just need the MAC valve) + wide band o2

Then a whole world of pain up to Motec

Price range for the hardware approx $1k-$5k

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

47 minutes ago, JayJay777 said:

now im confused, youve said in the first part that a top mount and ffp isnt necessary however in your second youre saying theyre for performance? which one is it?

They are not performance mods, unless you need the performance that they are suited to, which is in the order of double what you are asking for. In your context, they are 100% cosmetic, and actually carry a performance penalty, in the case of the FFP.

As far as I am concerned a show car does not have to have any actual performance. If its purpose is to look pretty with the bonnet up, it does not even have to run. If you want a good performance car, then the things that make it pretty with the bonnet up are not necessary and can be counterproductive.

You do you. But a highmount and an FFP are not even remotely required. I'd rather spend the money on brakes, suspension and tyres than bling to make the guys with shaved heads want to blow you.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

9 minutes ago, Duncan said:

Assuming the ECU can control boost, all you need is a MAC valve, wiring and vacuum line plumbing.

For ECU, that's kind of like talking religion, politics or whether pineapple belongs on pizza. Anything except the standard, untuned ECU can work, in cost order

Nistune + z32 AFM + Boost controller

PowerFC + z32 AFM + Boost controller 

Link, Haltech basic models, they can run MAP and control boost so you just need the MAC valve) + wide band o2

Then a whole world of pain up to Motec

Price range for the hardware approx $1k-$5k

yeah i had a look at a link ecu.. the one i want is just shy of 3k... which is pretty insane considering ive only ever owned sh*tboxes haha. but yeah ive begun making a list and so far its gonna cost around... 6k, but thats missing out on a lot of the plumbing, tuning and electrical labour i cant quite do myself. also planning on adding a few extra like a crank/cam trigger kit, some adjustable cam gears and the crank shaft extender thing (ive blanked on what its called, pretty much extends the crank and adds more splines) althought i do save money because the engine has already had some good head studs installed as well as fixed the oiling issue, so hopefully no spun bearings for me.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

14 minutes ago, Duncan said:

Nistune + z32 AFM + Boost controller

Not really an option without buying another (R32) ECU, unless it's an S2 C34 (and hence Neo engine). Best avvoided iin favour of the other options. Disclaimer, I have Nistune, so it's not as if I don't think it's a good thing. Just not as appropriate here, probably.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I run a link in my stagea too, it does a good job

And, welcome to the slippery slope.  If you want to stay in a budget, a highflow in the stock location, with stock intake and routing, nistune, injectors will get to to around that power at about 1/3 of the price.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

They are not performance mods, unless you need the performance that they are suited to, which is in the order of double what you are asking for. In your context, they are 100% cosmetic, and actually carry a performance penalty, in the case of the FFP.

As far as I am concerned a show car does not have to have any actual performance. If its purpose is to look pretty with the bonnet up, it does not even have to run. If you want a good performance car, then the things that make it pretty with the bonnet up are not necessary and can be counterproductive.

You do you. But a highmount and an FFP are not even remotely required. I'd rather spend the money on brakes, suspension and tyres than bling to make the guys with shaved heads want to blow you.

 

well like i said, 350 is what i consider a reasonable ball park and if i can use these parts to make more then ill make sure theyre not just cosmetic at all.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 minutes ago, JayJay777 said:

yeah i had a look at a link ecu.. the one i want is just shy of 3k... which is pretty insane considering ive only ever owned sh*tboxes haha. but yeah ive begun making a list and so far its gonna cost around... 6k, but thats missing out on a lot of the plumbing, tuning and electrical labour i cant quite do myself. also planning on adding a few extra like a crank/cam trigger kit, some adjustable cam gears and the crank shaft extender thing (ive blanked on what its called, pretty much extends the crank and adds more splines) althought i do save money because the engine has already had some good head studs installed as well as fixed the oiling issue, so hopefully no spun bearings for me.

 

The crank collar is an engine out job, is the engine currently in the bay?

What are your thoughts on aiming for around 450kw? It will still be quite responsive and the high mount turbo and all the other parts will then make sense. The funny thing is, what you are describing to build vs a 450kw setup will be very similar in price. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 minute ago, Murray_Calavera said:

a 450kw setup will be very similar in price.

Tell him the price son. Any number with 4 zeros is not going to be what he wants to hear. Having a 2 or a 3 as the first digit will be the end of it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 minutes ago, Duncan said:

I run a link in my stagea too, it does a good job

And, welcome to the slippery slope.  If you want to stay in a budget, a highflow in the stock location, with stock intake and routing, nistune, injectors will get to to around that power at about 1/3 of the price.

yeahhh ive found that one out haha.

currently that list is comprised of

front mount intercooler (aeroflow)

link ecu (G4x Xtremex)

gated manifold and screamer pipe (hypergear)

electronic boost gauge (gfb)

high flow mod for my current turbo (hypergear)

front facing plenum

so defintely missing a heap of stuff but thats just what i have so far.

with what i have do you think i should be aiming for more power? cause 350 is just my ballpark, but if i can gain more without rebuilding the engine i will.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

6 minutes ago, Murray_Calavera said:

The crank collar is an engine out job, is the engine currently in the bay?

What are your thoughts on aiming for around 450kw? It will still be quite responsive and the high mount turbo and all the other parts will then make sense. The funny thing is, what you are describing to build vs a 450kw setup will be very similar in price. 

yeah engine is currently in the bay, but if i have to take it out i will. in my mind, an engine out to increase the longevity of the engine is worth the time.

and im not sure if youre keeping up with GTS boy, but im not opposed to spending a fair bit on this car. i opened this forum with an idea of what i could do in mind and it seems what i want to do is overcompensating a bit haha, im not opposed to aiming for way more at all, 450kw is mad! just dont want to be one of those guys who wants to get 1000hp on his first go sort of thing, but it appears i have undershot it and i guess now i look like i have no clue. but if its a few k more for the 450kw then thats fine by me.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

8 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

Tell him the price son. Any number with 4 zeros is not going to be what he wants to hear. Having a 2 or a 3 as the first digit will be the end of it.

only if the 2 or the 3 is followed by 4 zeros themselves, im not looking to spend 20 to 30k but im more than happy to spend under that. not quite sure where you got the idea of me not wanting to spend money on but you need to take a chill pill champ

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 minutes ago, JayJay777 said:

only if the 2 or the 3 is followed by 4 zeros themselves, im not looking to spend 20 to 30k but im more than happy to spend under that. not quite sure where you got the idea of me not wanting to spend money on but you need to take a chill pill champ

Are you happy to spend 20k on this build? 

It sounds like you'll be doing the mechanical work yourself and paying for any wiring and tuning involved? Is that correct?

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Obviously it’s all your choice, so if you want to be able to lift the bonnet and see obvious performance parts, then go for it and spend the many moneys to look the part. Otherwise, there’s some real good advice here to do things properly utilising as many stock parts as possible (note the stock manifolds will always be better than cheap Chinese knock off ones).

I personally went a hypergear turbo in the stock turbo location and a Greddy front facing plenum for 300ish kw. I’m still spending thousands on fab work, so nothing is really cheap haha. Note than when using stock location items, you can generally get quality off the shelf kits for exhaust, intake and cooler piping, so minimal fab work will be required..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 minutes ago, Murray_Calavera said:

Are you happy to spend 20k on this build? 

It sounds like you'll be doing the mechanical work yourself and paying for any wiring and tuning involved? Is that correct?

id prefer not to but i can, it would just be gradual over time.

yeah ill be doing all the mechanical work myself and i know a few auto electricians and tuners who can help me, definitely not for free but it wont cost an insane amount

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Slimline sub on the rear parcel shelf is doable. Pioneer TS-WX140DA is only 70mm high.   
    • People like Johnny Dose Bro might be laughing at my post because I accidentally added 100mm to my numbers. 350-355 is indeed the lower limit. 450 is off-road Skyline spec.
    • What is the "compromise" that you think will happen? Are you thinking that something will get damaged? The only things you have to be concerned about with spherical jointed suspension arms are; Arguments with the constabulary wrt their legality (they are likely to be illegal for road use without an engineering certificatation, and that may not be possible to obtain). A lot more NVH transmitted through to the passengers (which is hardly a concern for those with a preference for good handling, anyway). Greatly increased inspection and maintenance requirements (see above points, both).   It is extremely necessary to ask what car you are talking about. Your discussion on strut tops, for example, would be completely wrong for an R chassis, but be correct for an S chassis. R32s have specific problems that R33/4 do not have. Etc. I have hardened rubber bushes on upper rear control arms and traction rods. Adjustable length so as to be able to set both camber and bump steer. You cannot contemplate doing just the control arms and not the traction arms. And whatever bushing you have in one you should have in the other so that they have similar characteristics. Otherwise you can get increased oddness of behaviour as one bushing flexes and the other doesn't, changing the alignment between them. I have stock lower rear arms with urethane bushes. I may make changes here, these are are driven by the R32's geometry problems, so I won't discuss them here unless it proves necessary. I have spherical joints in the front caster rods. I have experienced absolutely no negatives and only positives from doing so. They are massively better than any other option. I have sphericals in the FUCAs, but this is driven largely by the (again) R32 specific problems with the motion of those arms. I just have to deal with the increased maintenance required. Given how much better the front end behaves with the sphericals in there.....I'd probably be tempted to go away from my preference (which is not to have sphericals on a road car, for 2 of the 3 reasons in the bulleted list above), just to gain those improvements. And so my preference for not using sphericals (in general) on a road car should be obvious. I use them judiciously, though, as required to solve particular problems.
    • Easiest way to know is to break out the multimeter and measure it when cold, then measure all the resistances again once it gets hot enough to misfire. Both the original ignitor and the J Replace version. Factory service manual will have the spec for the terminal measurements.
    • Yes that sounds right. Cars currently in the shop for the engine work. Will need to remeasure .. but yes I think I must be targeting 45cm from fender. 
×
×
  • Create New...