Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Will back up what trident said.

Pull it again, and check the marks. Take photos of all the marks and post them.

Also check the harmonic hasnt spun the outter section which has the timing marks.

Also check you've reconnected everything properly, all pipes, cables etc.

Do you have adjustable cam gears, or factory ones?

 

When you say it won't rev, does it start all perfectly normal, but then you try and press the accelerator and it won't rev up?

Or you're having to start the motor with throttle, especially a lot of it?

If the latter, I suspect you have one cam advanced massively, another retarded massively, and you've done this by lining the gears up on the wrong mark. Been there, done it myself on an RB25DE head.

Car would start and run a bit, but was basically at WOT only it would run (and wasn't much over idle RPM). I also had an aftermarket ECU, so was running MAP not AFM.

yeah as far as i know all 3 of the marks are lined up (i’ve checked about 4 times because of this issue) i will take it apart tomorrow and post it on here

when turning the car on from cold i have to use throttle but idles fine. when revving when driving it almost spatters and won’t go much higher then 3000rpm

i have factory cam gears

the harmonic balancer has definitely not spun

 

10 hours ago, Cozzamb said:

yeah as far as i know all 3 of the marks are lined up (i’ve checked about 4 times because of this issue) i will take it apart tomorrow and post it on here

when turning the car on from cold i have to use throttle but idles fine. when revving when driving it almost spatters and won’t go much higher then 3000rpm

i have factory cam gears

the harmonic balancer has definitely not spun

 

Have you actually verified TDC cylinder 1 is where the balancer says it is? Has this engine been rebuilt at all?

11 hours ago, Cozzamb said:

yeah as far as i know all 3 of the marks are lined up (i’ve checked about 4 times because of this issue) i will take it apart tomorrow and post it on here

when turning the car on from cold i have to use throttle but idles fine. when revving when driving it almost spatters and won’t go much higher then 3000rpm

i have factory cam gears

the harmonic balancer has definitely not spun

 

Double check the AFM is plugged in too, AND both temp sensors are plugged in too.

 

Do a huge double check for air leaks too.

27 minutes ago, Cozzamb said:

not sure how i would verify TDC for cylinder 1 as i’ve just been doing everything off the workshop manual

Spark plug out. stick/screwdriver in the hole. When it stops going up and starts going down, that's TDC. Very hard to catch the exact top because the motion slows down as it dwells across the top, so you end up needing to look at the height of the indicator a few degrees either side of where you think TDC is. If it is at a certain height and rising at some indicated angle and then it is at the same height and falling at some other later angle, then halfway between those angles is true TDC.

12 hours ago, blind_elk said:

Sometimes, the timing light indicates the incorrect timing. How did you actually measure / set timing?

This is worth thinking about, personally I hate worrying about whether the inductive loop or whatever is all set up correctly. I just use a spark plug wire on cylinder 1 instead.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • To expand on this to help understanding... The bigger/longer the block is, the more it's going to work to sit on your far away high areas, and not touch the low stuff in the middle. When you throw the guide coat, and give it a quick go with a big block, guide coat will disappear in the high spots. If those high spots are in the correct position where the panel should be, stop sanding, and fill the low spots. However, using a small block, you "fall off" one of the high spots, and now your sanding the "side of the hill". Your little block would have been great for the stone chips, where you only use a very small amount of filler, so you're sanding and area let's say the size of a 5/10cent piece, with something that is 75*150. For the big panel, go bigger!   And now I'll go back to my "body work sucks, it takes too much patience, and I don't have it" PS, I thought your picture with coloured circles was an ultra sound... That's after my brain thought you were trying to make a dick and balls drawing...
    • Oh I probably didn't speak enough about the small sanding block for blocking large areas.  In the video about 3 minutes in, he talks about creating valleys in the panel. This is the issue with using a small sanding block for a large area, it's way too easy to create the valleys he is talking about. With a large block its much easier to create a nice flat surface.  Hard to explain but in practice you'll notice the difference straight away using the large block. 
    • Yep I guessed as much. You'll find life much easier with a large block something like this -  https://wholesalepaint.com.au/products/dura-block-long-hook-loop-sanding-block-100-eva-rubber-af4437 This is a good demo video of something like this in use -    You have turned your small rock chip holes into large low spots. You'll need to fill and block these low spots.  It's always a little hard not seeing it in person, but yes I would go ahead and lay filler over the whole area. Have a good look at the video I linked, it's a very good example of all the things you're doing. They went to bare metal, they are using guide coat, they are doing a skim coat with the filler and blocking it back. If what you're doing doesn't look like what they are doing, that's a big hint for you  
    • The odometer does go up when driving.  Does this tell it is an issue with the speedometer itself?    Where can I look for replacement cluster? Or speedo? I can likely do the repair.. Will ER34 cluster work on HR34? Or do I need a HR34 20GT S2 specifically lol   
×
×
  • Create New...