Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Would you see an upgrade/replacement of OEM bushings on the R32 GTR as an ”bad” upgrade on an Almost complete oem/untouched r32 gtr? 
 

im going through an inspection an removed the subframe. Thought that an replacement of some of the rubber bushings to whitline or nismo (as close to oem as possible) could be an good idea but i dont want to Replace to much on an Almost oem car. 
 

would you leave the old in or change them? Would a car like this ”decrease its value” if i replaced bushings on the car? 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/484964-r32-gtr-overhaulchange-of-parts/
Share on other sites

23 minutes ago, timmy94 said:

Would you see an upgrade/replacement of OEM bushings on the R32 GTR as an ”bad” upgrade on an Almost complete oem/untouched r32 gtr? 
 

im going through an inspection an removed the subframe. Thought that an replacement of some of the rubber bushings to whitline or nismo (as close to oem as possible) could be an good idea but i dont want to Replace to much on an Almost oem car. 
 

would you leave the old in or change them? Would a car like this ”decrease its value” if i replaced bushings on the car? 

Replace the bushings. Either Nismo or OEM. Whiteline bushings are polyurethane and do not have the same behavior as rubber. If you want an OEM experience run OEM rubber. Some bushings due to the nature of the kinematics require compliance from rubber while others you can make it as stiff as you can tolerate from an NVH perspective. If you are asking questions like this I don't think it's worth the trouble to research what bushings should stay rubber and what should be polyurethane.

  • Like 1

Replacing every bush and ball joint is the #1 best thing you can do in these cars after all this time.

If your rear subframe is out, you would be mad not to replace:

- Subframe bushes

- Diff bushes (and change the oil while it is out)

- HICAS ball joints, or even better replace with HICAS lock out

- Every upper and lower control arm link (use adjustable aftermarket poly bushes at both ends of every arm)

- If you have a press, it is a good time to do rear wheel bearings as well but not essential

If you want it to look stock you can put factory bushes back in, but that will be x times more expensive for no improvement in ability to align it. I can't see a car with original bushes that clunks or tramlines all over the place being worth more than one that drives beautifully.

  • Like 1

I'm with him ^ but I wouldn't keep stock upper arms at either end of the car. Adjustable length arms needed. Otherwise park it and never drive it. Oh, and another small difference in his HICAS recommendation. Total elimination is better than a lock bar.

Keep all the stock bits you remove in the shed, and give the box to the buyer when you dispose of your investment in 3 years.

Edited by GTSBoy
  • Like 1

as always Thanks guys.. 

 

where can i get the oem rubbers? 
But Will probably go for nismo ones then.

Im going through an overhaul/inspection/restauration and i would be grateful for  some tips on some good places to buy these kind of stuff. 
 

15 hours ago, timmy94 said:

as always Thanks guys.. 

 

where can i get the oem rubbers? 
But Will probably go for nismo ones then.

Im going through an overhaul/inspection/restauration and i would be grateful for  some tips on some good places to buy these kind of stuff. 
 

Nissan USA dealers, PartsForNissans, etc. Amayama is also an option. Nismo parts you can try RHDJapan, Trust Kikaku, or Nengun.

On 9/26/2023 at 1:16 AM, Duncan said:

Replacing every bush and ball joint is the #1 best thing you can do in these cars after all this time.

If your rear subframe is out, you would be mad not to replace:

- Subframe bushes

- Diff bushes (and change the oil while it is out)

- HICAS ball joints, or even better replace with HICAS lock out

- Every upper and lower control arm link (use adjustable aftermarket poly bushes at both ends of every arm)

- If you have a press, it is a good time to do rear wheel bearings as well but not essential

If you want it to look stock you can put factory bushes back in, but that will be x times more expensive for no improvement in ability to align it. I can't see a car with original bushes that clunks or tramlines all over the place being worth more than one that drives beautifully.

Whiteline is the only option for the 4 subframe bushes? Cant really find anything Else and nismo dont have them at all. 
 

isnt whiteline a really shitty poly bushing?

On 9/25/2023 at 10:12 PM, joshuaho96 said:

Replace the bushings. Either Nismo or OEM. Whiteline bushings are polyurethane and do not have the same behavior as rubber. If you want an OEM experience run OEM rubber. Some bushings due to the nature of the kinematics require compliance from rubber while others you can make it as stiff as you can tolerate from an NVH perspective. If you are asking questions like this I don't think it's worth the trouble to research what bushings should stay rubber and what should be polyurethane.

 

There's no problem with poly subframe bushings.

GKTech, and many others, also have them.

Don't be fooled by Nismo anything. There is little to no difference between a Nismo suspension bush or engine mount and the stocker that originally cost 1/3 the price.

  • Like 1
20 minutes ago, timmy94 said:

Whiteline is the only option for the 4 subframe bushes? Cant really find anything Else and nismo dont have them at all. 
 

isnt whiteline a really shitty poly bushing?

 

Whiteline is probably fine for the subframe, technically I believe Nismo USA is selling solid aluminum subframe bushings these days which is a step harsher than that. Again, this is a question of what you care about. If you want "purity" then I'm pretty sure Nismo is actually the only option for "OEM", looking at the OEM parts catalog they don't break out the subframe bushing as a separate part. 55442-RS580 should be what you're looking for.

Hardrace do harden subframe bushes, used them before and they're of decent quality.

I've gone full retard this time and fitted offset polyurethane bushes to shift the subframe 10mm closer to the chassis, great mod as all your suspension arms are pretty much at OEM geometry when your car is slightly lowered.

  • Like 1

Poly bushes are really the way to go, whiteline are fine for street and even race use and so are other brands eg super pro etc. Some of their bushes are available in black instead of yellow if you don't want them so obvious

Noltec aren't really around any more, but they did have issues with crumbling over time, don't use them if you come across them. I haven't had a particular problem with other brands, they do degrade over time depending on use like factory ones do.

On 28/9/2023 at 10:06 AM, Duncan said:

Noltec aren't really around any more, but they did have issues with crumbling over time, don't use them if you come across them. I haven't had a particular problem with other brands, they do degrade over time depending on use like factory ones do.

Yep, I had a brand new set of Noltec rear subframe bushes that came with my 32 when I bought it, when I was doing the rear subframe, I considered using them, I opened the packet and they were all cracked, and they started to fall apart when touched, and these had never been fitted to a car, just fell apart with age I guess. 
I fitted white line rear subframe bushes in mine, but it’s a while off driving so can’t comment on what they are like. 
my rear is a mix of white line and Nismo, 

 

IMG_9539.jpeg

  • Like 1

Since my hicas balljoints are completely gone, i guess i should consider hicas delete kit instead of replacement of the balljoints. Surprised when i saw that The balljoints was Almost as expansive as the full hicas delete kit. 

You will be happier for removing HICAS than trying to get it back to original.

The bushes in an elimination kit will also last longer than the factory style balljoint because of their design, although I guess anyone renewing bushes after 30 years will never have to do it again in the life of the car, not too many of these doing the daily commute any more and petrol will disappear soon enough

On 26/09/2023 at 4:43 AM, timmy94 said:

Would you see an upgrade/replacement of OEM bushings on the R32 GTR as an ”bad” upgrade on an Almost complete oem/untouched r32 gtr? 
 

im going through an inspection an removed the subframe. Thought that an replacement of some of the rubber bushings to whitline or nismo (as close to oem as possible) could be an good idea but i dont want to Replace to much on an Almost oem car. 
 

would you leave the old in or change them? Would a car like this ”decrease its value” if i replaced bushings on the car? 

PLEASE DONT use WHITELINE BULLSHIT BUSHES.

My rear diff bushings were destroyed after just a few 1000 k's.. and yes, they were done by a reputable shop. Replaced with Nismo bushings and its perfect.

 

If the subframe is off, then it pays to replace all, especially if they have some age on them.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The roof is wrapped
    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
    • The downside of this is when you try to track the car, as soon as you hit ABS you get introduced to a unbled system. I want to avoid this. I do not want to bleed/flush/jack up the car twice just to bleed the f**kin car.
    • But again, the engineers said your cast aluminium would be fine based on the load that would be stretching that section. Same load stretching the bolts in a flex (not the twist), with a much smaller cross sectional area than the original part you've broken. It's why you'd need to be using higher strength bolts, but that's just making up for the strength you lose with less area...
×
×
  • Create New...