Jump to content
SAU Community

R33 GTST need advice

R33tur
 Share

Recommended Posts

R33tur Rookie

R33tur

Posted
Posted

Hi just looking for some advice, I wanted to replace the clilpack wiring loom in my 93 GTST , but have found rather than having the standard 7 pin plug, ive found it has a 6 pin, the only replacement I can find is one that suits the 33 GTR, but mine has an earth wire and the GTR does not, but also keeping in mind this car is in a mess and the ignition control module is not even fixed to the car, ( got it this way and plan to sort it all out )

Any advice would be helpful, I'm not sure what to do TIA

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/485339-r33-gtst-need-advice/
Share on other sites
GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, Murray_Calavera said:

I'll just leave this here - 

https://www.wiringspecialties.com/rb25-coil-pack-harnesses/

 

15 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Delete the ignitor crap, then go R35 / 370Z coils and a new loom.

Which, straight up, is this

https://www.wiringspecialties.com/r33-gts-vr38-coil-pack-conversion-harness/

or this

https://www.wiringspecialties.com/prp-r35-gt-r-smart-coil-kit-for-rb25det-s1-s2-bracket-hw-stalks/

 

But you cam also buy equivalent stuff direct from PRP or Goleby's and all the other usual local suspects, without the USD and shipping costs of wiring specialties.

Edited by GTSBoy
GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted
2 hours ago, R33tur said:

I'm just confused as to why they used the gtr loom rather than the standard

Because there's no special difference between the GTR and 25 looms (that matter, anyway).

The differences that matter are that R32 and S1 R33s had dumb coils, the S2 R33s had coils with built in igniters and then so did the R34 stuff (but with other differences, like physical mounting differences). So if you're replacing the coils with R35 coils anyway, then all you need to do is match the plugs.

Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted
On 15/03/2024 at 9:33 AM, GTSBoy said:

If you have to change the loom now, you might as well not waste the money put into that, and go the whole hog and upgrade the entire system. The poor (or tight-arse) man pays twice.

I don't really agree....the stock ignition system is fine for most use as long as the loom and coils are in good condition.....changing to different coil setups not necessary unless you are looking for big power.....and I get the impression OP has a lot of unwanted money to spend getting the car running properly

  • Thanks 1
R33tur Rookie

R33tur

Posted
  • Author
Posted
1 hour ago, Duncan said:

I don't really agree....the stock ignition system is fine for most use as long as the loom and coils are in good condition.....changing to different coil setups not necessary unless you are looking for big power.....and I get the impression OP has a lot of unwanted money to spend getting the car running properly

Thanks mate, my first intentions were to make changes, upgrades and all that's kind of stuff but that was Before the car had arrived, now I'm looking at just sorting out basic thing's you wouldn't expect to have been worried about with a car that was described as only having a knock in the rear suspension, the list has gotten bigger as we started to work on it. I wouldn't wish such a car on my worst enemy. But it is what it is, and I have to make do with what I've been given, just hoping to make it into something half decent.

  • Like 1
Dose Pipe Sutututu Grand Master

Dose Pipe Sutututu

Posted
Posted

Spends money on loom, then finds out OEM ignitor is cactus, spends money on that, then finds OEM coils are cooked.

Then goes, ok, time to upgrade to a R35/370Z coil setup.

Now left with a barely used new loom, and a barely used new ignitor.

Can't sell the latter two for anything to recoup costs.

TLDR, just get a R35/370Z coil kit.

R33tur Rookie

R33tur

Posted
  • Author
Posted
7 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Spends money on loom, then finds out OEM ignitor is cactus, spends money on that, then finds OEM coils are cooked.

Then goes, ok, time to upgrade to a R35/370Z coil setup.

Now left with a barely used new loom, and a barely used new ignitor.

Can't sell the latter two for anything to recoup costs.

TLDR, just get a R35/370Z coil kit.

Do I need anything else to do this conversion? 🤔 

R33tur Rookie

R33tur

Posted
  • Author
Posted
6 minutes ago, Murray_Calavera said:

What ECU are you using?

Standard from what I can tell, the car was shipped to me and I've found it all to be in a big mess, we've come to find alot missing and stuff mixed up, looks to have been an ex track car, maybe set up for drifting. We think a bigger turbo and front mount intercooler previously, turning in to a massive headache.

 

Murray_Calavera Mentor

Murray_Calavera

Posted
Posted
4 minutes ago, R33tur said:

Standard from what I can tell, the car was shipped to me and I've found it all to be in a big mess, we've come to find alot missing and stuff mixed up, looks to have been an ex track car, maybe set up for drifting. We think a bigger turbo and front mount intercooler previously, turning in to a massive headache.

 

I was hoping you were going to say you have an aftermarket ECU. 

So, personally I wouldn't buy a R35 coil kit without already having an aftermarket ECU. I would be concerned about dwell time settings that the R35 coils want, might not match up with the original coils dwell time. With the aftermarket ECU you can set the dwell times so happy days. Stock ECU... not so much. 

I don't know how many people out there would be running $1000 worth of coil kit on a stock ECU, so dunno if anyone can personally confirm that it runs well on the stock ECU? 

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted
4 hours ago, Murray_Calavera said:

I would be concerned about dwell time settings that the R35 coils want, might not match up with the original coils dwell time. With the aftermarket ECU you can set the dwell times so happy days. Stock ECU... not so much. 

The dwell times for R35 coils are a decent match with stock RB ECUs.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • GTSBoy
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • Kinkstaah
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...