Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I just hit 30k and want to change oil and filter on my VR30DDTT and been reading people having issues with the 0w-20 oil that Nissan recommend?

what issues is there as im about to embark on servicing my car myself as booking it in has become a night when sunday is the only day i dont use the car.

if the 0w-20 is an issue why would it be recommended by Nissan and supercheap tried to tell me that my car is not listed under Nissan and to get the same as the 370z which i scoffed at and let be.

What do other V37 owners use or recommend ohh and Nissan said they dont service my vehicle either so im kinda stuck for what to do?

 

These engines are in the 400z not 370z. 

0w20 was used to passed emissions and also provide a lower fuel consumption. I am personally using 5w30 in my Q60s as the 0w20 is too thin for my liking and I drive with a heavy foot. 

I can't really say what is best for the VR30 as I don't have one, but I know plenty of people have said things about oil weights in the past without a whole lot of evidence, so I would be wanting some empirical evidence that 0W-20 is causing problems before I go with a different oil weight.

Plenty of people have told me the recommended 5W-30 oil is too thin for the VQ35 in our warmer environment, yet I have been using it in a V35 skyline in North Queensland since 2011 without issue.

Based on the manual you posted, it looks like 5W-40 will be ok, but no idea if it would be 'a better choice'.

I've been using 5w30 which is still allowed in the manual but not the recommended 0w20, I can't really say one way or the other if it is causing a problem until I tear the engine down, certainly there has been no sign of issue but I drive it hard and will change it every 5000.

Even with the Infiniti not import, my local Nissan won't help with parts or servicing. Just use a competent mechanic who has attention to detail and a compatible scan tool.

Take it from an engineer. You could use 20-60 and not notice any difference. They all thin down to approximately the same viscosity at operating temperature. Look here:

image.thumb.png.30d54212b6cf3c6d8cf62e83480a2821.png

The viscosity axis is a log scale, so you have to keep in mind that every major division up that scale is 10x the value of the previous division. And that shows that at the 0°C end of the scale the difference in viscosity between 10 and 50 SAE oil is about that factor of 10. At the 100°C end of the scale, the difference is much less, about half an order of magnitude, which is about 3x (rather than 10x). Meaning, as oils get hotter, their viscosity converges towards a common (smaller) value.

This is a chart for single grade oils, not multigrade. Keep that in mind, we're only talking about the behaviour of a single grade oil across the temperature range, and the difference in behaviour of a single grade oils at the same temperature here. I will address the multigrade situation after.

There is no line there for 5 or 0 SAE oils, but you can imagine that they are a similar space below the 10 SAE line as the the 10 is below the 20.

Look at the 10 SAE line at say, 10°C and at 90°C, being the typical (worst case) difference between a cold start and operating temperature in most of Australia. Some places never go below 20, some are frequently down to 0°C, but the argument is no invalidated by those additions to the limits I'm using. The viscosity at 10°C is about 0.2 Pa.s (Pascal seconds, which is the common term for the expanded SI units shown on the chart). At 90°C, it is about 0.009. That's more than an order of magnitude difference. Do the same for the 50 SAE oil and you get about 2 and about 0.03. That's more like 2 orders of magnitude.

But importantly, the viscosity of the 50 SAE oil at 90°C is still about one order of magnitude lower than the 10 SAE oil at 10°C. This means.....

A light weight oil, like a 0, 5 or 10, is quite thin at cold conditions, but is still thicker than a heavy oil is when that heavy oil is hot. And the engine is definitely going to be happy with the thicker oil at that hot condition, so it can only remain happy with the thinner oil at the cold condition. The difference between a 0 and a 10 SAE oil at typical Aussie cold conditions no worse than the difference between the thin and thick oils between cold and hot. And in fact, much less than "no worse".

As has been said above, the only reason maufacturers are speccing thinner oils for modern engines is to reduce fuel consumption and emissions. Thinner oils do pump faster at the first turn of the engine and so do provide earlier rise of oil pressure and supply of oil to rubbing surfaces (like cams). But really, for actual protection against these initial rotation conditions, we actually rely more on the retained oil which is kept there by the film strength (and by modifier packages that are added to the oil) anyway, and thicker oils are better at hanging on anyway, so it is probably a moot point.

If I had an engine that demanded 0W-20 oil, I would have no issue running 10W-40 in it.

The chart below is for multigrade oils (which adds confusion to the explanation, which is why I used one for single grade oils above). The multigrade oils have a difference viscosity curve, because they act like a thinner oil at low temps and as a thicker oil at high temps, so the scale gets compressed. You can see that the scale on the below chart is not logarithmic (is linear), and that all the oils collapse to the 10-25 cSt range when at operating temperature, and are much more viscous at 10°C (which is not shown on the chart, but you can see they would all shoot up above 100 cSt.

image.thumb.jpeg.dbfa49a1e8f936c83058a01dc08f5ca9.jpeg

 

  • Thanks 1
3 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

Take it from an engineer. You could use 20-60 and not notice any difference. They all thin down to approximately the same viscosity at operating temperature. Look here:

image.thumb.png.30d54212b6cf3c6d8cf62e83480a2821.png

The viscosity axis is a log scale, so you have to keep in mind that every major division up that scale is 10x the value of the previous division. And that shows that at the 0°C end of the scale the difference in viscosity between 10 and 50 SAE oil is about that factor of 10. At the 100°C end of the scale, the difference is much less, about half an order of magnitude, which is about 3x (rather than 10x). Meaning, as oils get hotter, their viscosity converges towards a common (smaller) value.

This is a chart for single grade oils, not multigrade. Keep that in mind, we're only talking about the behaviour of a single grade oil across the temperature range, and the difference in behaviour of a single grade oils at the same temperature here. I will address the multigrade situation after.

There is no line there for 5 or 0 SAE oils, but you can imagine that they are a similar space below the 10 SAE line as the the 10 is below the 20.

Look at the 10 SAE line at say, 10°C and at 90°C, being the typical (worst case) difference between a cold start and operating temperature in most of Australia. Some places never go below 20, some are frequently down to 0°C, but the argument is no invalidated by those additions to the limits I'm using. The viscosity at 10°C is about 0.2 Pa.s (Pascal seconds, which is the common term for the expanded SI units shown on the chart). At 90°C, it is about 0.009. That's more than an order of magnitude difference. Do the same for the 50 SAE oil and you get about 2 and about 0.03. That's more like 2 orders of magnitude.

But importantly, the viscosity of the 50 SAE oil at 90°C is still about one order of magnitude lower than the 10 SAE oil at 10°C. This means.....

A light weight oil, like a 0, 5 or 10, is quite thin at cold conditions, but is still thicker than a heavy oil is when that heavy oil is hot. And the engine is definitely going to be happy with the thicker oil at that hot condition, so it can only remain happy with the thinner oil at the cold condition. The difference between a 0 and a 10 SAE oil at typical Aussie cold conditions no worse than the difference between the thin and thick oils between cold and hot. And in fact, much less than "no worse".

As has been said above, the only reason maufacturers are speccing thinner oils for modern engines is to reduce fuel consumption and emissions. Thinner oils do pump faster at the first turn of the engine and so do provide earlier rise of oil pressure and supply of oil to rubbing surfaces (like cams). But really, for actual protection against these initial rotation conditions, we actually rely more on the retained oil which is kept there by the film strength (and by modifier packages that are added to the oil) anyway, and thicker oils are better at hanging on anyway, so it is probably a moot point.

If I had an engine that demanded 0W-20 oil, I would have no issue running 10W-40 in it.

The chart below is for multigrade oils (which adds confusion to the explanation, which is why I used one for single grade oils above). The multigrade oils have a difference viscosity curve, because they act like a thinner oil at low temps and as a thicker oil at high temps, so the scale gets compressed. You can see that the scale on the below chart is not logarithmic (is linear), and that all the oils collapse to the 10-25 cSt range when at operating temperature, and are much more viscous at 10°C (which is not shown on the chart, but you can see they would all shoot up above 100 cSt.

image.thumb.jpeg.dbfa49a1e8f936c83058a01dc08f5ca9.jpeg

 

What about cases like the BMW S65/S85 where part of the rod bearing wear issue is crazy tight? Obviously the real solution is to just run slightly oversize bearing clearance vs OEM but I've also seen people suggest lower viscosity oil compared to the 10W60 Castrol TWS BMW specced from the factory.

1 hour ago, joshuaho96 said:

What about cases like the BMW S65/S85 where part of the rod bearing wear issue is crazy tight? Obviously the real solution is to just run slightly oversize bearing clearance vs OEM but I've also seen people suggest lower viscosity oil compared to the 10W60 Castrol TWS BMW specced from the factory.

It's not an oil problem. It is yet another BMW design problem. Best fixed by not buying that Eurotrash in the first place, along with VAG products and half of Satan's limo supplier's catalogue.

i was thinking 5w-30 aswell.

same oil as i use in my WRX FA20DIT i want to keep it at 5000km change intervals like all my turbo vehicles.

now i just have to find how much i will need and a filter.

On 10/08/2024 at 3:17 PM, colin.ssc said:

These engines are in the 400z not 370z. 

0w20 was used to passed emissions and also provide a lower fuel consumption. I am personally using 5w30 in my Q60s as the 0w20 is too thin for my liking and I drive with a heavy foot. 

yes thats exactly right dude didnt know what he was talking about.

yer imma get 5w30 makes sense.

i will be going back there to buy exactly what i want though lol.

so after some googling a 400R VR30DDTT should take 5.2Lts of oil with Filter?

i always go a lil over so imma go 5.3or so ive always been told a lil more is always better but not to much.

and  RYCO Z436 oil filter.

yep just done that lol.

also got the RYCO filter Z436ST which is apparently slightly better flow and rubber grip outside lol.

supercheap told me to not go against the manufacturers nominated oil aswell lol.

i went with Castrol EDGE 5w-30 was going to go magnatec but was not sure.

but i used Edge in my WRX and had great results so we will see.

Thanks heaps for your input guys.

  • Like 1

well all done was crazy how many screws i had to undo to get that plastic plate off.

but replaced with 5w30 Edge and new filter went about 5.5lts of oil over the 5.3lt standard though i noticed abit of crusty coolant on my undertray looks like its come down from the overflow out that has no pipe?

should it have a pipe?

also could be just me but i noticed loud ticking now that maybe i just didnt notice before(not that i had my engine running with bonnet up much).

anyone else notice this maybe after changing to 5w30 over 0w20 oil?

  • Like 2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...