Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

If I had cash I’d have put in a bid. Pretty sweet project. Plus I can take a mould of the elusive blank FM button on the cluster surround and wiper less rear glass

  • 1 month later...
  • 2 months later...
On 27/8/2024 at 6:31 PM, funkymonkey said:

If I had cash I’d have put in a bid. Pretty sweet project. Plus I can take a mould of the elusive blank FM button on the cluster surround and wiper less rear glass

I honestly had no idea the N1's had a blank FM button till I read this and did a google, makes sense but the thought never crossed my mind. Cool little skyline trivia that I will probably never use again 😆

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...

I mean an N1 came with a minimal paint thickness compared to dealer models. It’s probably had a ton of vinyls and stuff possible a race paintjob or two over the years.

you don’t buy an N1 for its stunning good looks or comfort 🤣 you buy it to send it and measure how much air you can get on the hill at Bathurst

  • Like 1
17 hours ago, funkymonkey said:

I mean an N1 came with a minimal paint thickness compared to dealer models. It’s probably had a ton of vinyls and stuff possible a race paintjob or two over the years.

you don’t buy an N1 for its stunning good looks or comfort 🤣 you buy it to send it and measure how much air you can get on the hill at Bathurst

I'm pretty sure people only buy n1 GTRs to put them in a garage/shed somewhere these days

On 01/02/2025 at 7:45 AM, Duncan said:

I'm pretty sure people only buy n1 GTRs to put them in a garage/shed somewhere these days

blame old mate Hawkins for that one :D I remember way back in the day the japanese didn't want them either... they always assumed a race shell would be thrashed. We found a few when looking for an R34 GTR for the Whites to drive in Targa Tas back in 2002.

  • Like 1
5 hours ago, funkymonkey said:

blame old mate Hawkins for that one :D I remember way back in the day the japanese didn't want them either... they always assumed a race shell would be thrashed. We found a few when looking for an R34 GTR for the Whites to drive in Targa Tas back in 2002.

Pretty sure we can blame the Americans, we were buying blown up 32s for 8k and complete running 33 vspecs for 14k until they were allowed to have them and parts were plentiful and cheap as chips

  • Like 1
On 1/31/2025 at 11:20 PM, r32-25t said:

I wonder if the n1 was cheaper when bought new 

It was more expensive than the base model GT-R, however cheaper than the V·spec and V·spec II. I've attached a scan of one of the price lists I have collected over the years.

 

On 2/2/2025 at 11:15 PM, r32-25t said:

Pretty sure we can blame the Americans, we were buying blown up 32s for 8k and complete running 33 vspecs for 14k until they were allowed to have them and parts were plentiful and cheap as chips

A lot of people blame the US market however I don't think we can blame any specific region for the price increases over the years.

N1.jpg

  • Like 1
6 minutes ago, soviet_merlin said:

Man, I'd love to buy a brand new GTR for $50k. If someone invents a time machine please let me know.

To be fair, you could got to the movies on Tuesday for $2 in 1994 as well.

Or buy the median house in Sydney for $92k

  • Like 1
6 minutes ago, Duncan said:

To be fair, you could got to the movies on Tuesday for $2 in 1994 as well.

Or buy the median house in Sydney for $92k

Hah, fair enough. Hence the need for a time machine to spend the hugely inflated money from now back then.

8 hours ago, Duncan said:

To be fair, you could got to the movies on Tuesday for $2 in 1994 as well.

Or buy the median house in Sydney for $92k

So by that logic, an insanely expensive GTR for $200k+ is quite cheap, at 12% of Sydney's median house price compared to over 50% when a GTR was new...

  • Haha 1
  • 3 weeks later...

yeah I'd have bought a couple of houses in Sydney in the past, and then come back forward in time, sold the houses and use the money to buy more R32 GTRs.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok so after much research and talking with knowledgeable people I've got my turbo conversion done and it's all running great other than 1 small issue.  Car has remained auto with the na auto and tcm, I've used a stagea ecu with. NIstune board and everything is great other than my gear selection on the dash. It illuminates park, reverse, neutral, 3rd and 2nd. But nothing drive or what gear your in when you pop it into tiptronic.  I'm sure there is may e 1 wire in the ecu plug I need to move to rectify this. Dose anyone here have any ideas?   Cheers guys
    • Sorry I haven't been following all the detail, so you may have tried this. Does it idle with the tiniest bit of throttle you can add? You've mentioned the IACV, does it have an AAC valve and have you adjusted it at all (ie, screw the idle adjust screw all the way in, then back it out a couple of turns until idle is stable)?
    • My bad, I unplugged the one underlined in red instead of yellow before. With the car started, after unplugging the IACV (the one underlined in yellow), it idled at around 400/500 for 3 seconds before stalling. Attempting to start the car without the IACV will not start the car.   It does stutter and sputter for around 5 seconds before dying. However, immediately after starting it, you can already hear some slight sputters from the exhaust.   It won't start with the AFM unplugged. If it is when the car has already started, it stalls in a few seconds.   Yesterday, I did take some logs using Nistune of 3 scenarios. Car idling till it stalls Car idling and unplugging the IACV Car idling and removing the AFM I also have some previous logs of when the Car is idling till it stalls and when driving and it cuts. I am not really knowledgeable enough to understand what to look for. After every test, car idles rougher and rougher, until I have to stop. It will be fine the day after.
    • There is no difference between a 17x8 and an 18x8. The total diameter of the tyre needs to remain +/- the same (so you don't mess up the gearing, speedo reading, and clearance when turning front wheels..... so you just need to use a lower profile tyre on th 18 than you do on the 17. /rocket surgery.
    • I thought the same to start with. But then I thought it was one of those LCAs where the end of the ARB goes through a bushing in the LCA itself, instead of having an end link.
×
×
  • Create New...