Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i just thought i would start a thread for people to throw up their dyno sheet and a list of major mods so people can compare and enquire what make a good improvement and what doesnt and to see how laggy certain turbos actually do make the ol rb engines....

i have :

lt12 plug in microtech ecu

gt28440hp bb turbo (t25 flange)

600x300x76 modified hybrid cooler

malipassi reg

480cc injectors

bosch 909 pump

3 inch exhaust with custom dump pipe and no cat

adjustable cam gears

profec b spec 1 boost controller

im especially keen to see guys with rb20 engines and turbos like 2530,2540 etc

my graph can be seen here.... http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/at...achmentid=21307

low boost (8 psi) hi boost (18 psi) cheers Jon

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/49209-post-up-your-best-dyno-graph/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 223
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

My R33 is still pretty stock but i have dyno figures for it.

it has-

- a front mount intercooler kit by Hybrid.

- a custom made double dump pipe by Drift King.

- a turbosmart boost controller switchable hi/low boost.

- 3 inch exhaust.

it makes max power at 6400rpm at 9 p.s.i.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/photopost.../cat/500/page/1

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/photopost.../cat/500/page/1

heavily modified (engine just been refresh when the turbo and cam shaft fitted)

Apexi RX6 high-mount turbo

Apexi exhaust manifold

Apexi external wasgate

Apexi cam shaft

Apexi valve spring

Apexi fuel pump

Apexi injector

metal head gaskit

ARC front mount intercooler

Full trust exhaust system

Blitz dual sbc boost control

z32 air flow meter

Just Dyno the car at Dyno source and it made 392hp at rear wheels in 1.3bar(pump fuel)

should make 430hp at rear wheel in 1.4bar with race fuel

on the dyno graph still show car run very rich at 392hp at rear wheel in 1.3bar.

This is my current set up, im pushing my injectors a little though, need bigger injectors

lt12 plug in microtech ecu

gt2535 turbo

600x300x76 hybrid cooler

bosch motorsports fuel pump

3 inch exhaust with custom dump pipe and no cat

Bleed valve boost controller

215rwkw on 18psi

Dyno paper i will post as soon as i can get it scanned

I saw merli's 600.1 rwkw graph...but he claims to have "lost" the pic now.

here is mine from the SAU Dyno Day today :(

datto_dyno.jpg

Apparently it was running too rich, so we should be able to get the extra .3 rwkw with some tuning :D

I'd love to know Paul's secret to 450HP. I'm nearly there - with similar turbo (larger rear housing). Dude did you have an exhaust on your car when you got the 450 ?

This is 23 PSI - ( get no difference in power from 21 PSI upwards - tried 25 PSI today and 2 rwkw less - same dyno)

skylyn_dyno_2.jpg

GT30 is pretty ambiguous as to the size of the turbo, the GT30 family is huge. Then again, it could have a '30 rear, and a larger family compressor. Such mystery!

ps. 450 hp is 335kw, different dyno could accomodate such variation.

Edit: You can't compare the A/R directly between Garrett vs HKS - different designs where the HKS units have a smaller radius ®, so the area (A) could be the same on a larger HKS vs smaller Garrett.

Edit2: You would probably find that you can drop the size of your turbine housing B-Man and not lose horsepower.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
    • Neg, the top one is actually for the front. The sizes are 18x10.5 +18 and 18x11 +32.   I measured many times but I'm sure I'll have problems as this is the thread for problems.
    • Just one thing; tapping tapered threads is tricky. Taps are always tapered and you would generally run it as far as you can, but with a tapered thread you have to stop much sooner otherwise the wide part of the taper will run in too far and you will have to thread the sensor in too far too as well (possible that it will never make a good seal) BTW nice wide wheels, I guess the top one is for the back!
    • Welp, good to know. Will have to wait awhile until steady hands with drills and taps are available. In other news, these just arrived! I will weigh them for posterity. Edit: 11kg each (or 10.9/11.1 depending on what my scale decides over multiple tests, the 18x11 don't seem to weigh noticeably any more than 10.5)  
×
×
  • Create New...