Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 4 weeks later...

Anyone here replaced their turbo's with on thats been highflowed from this thread?

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=131723

If so what kinda results did you get, l'm contemplating getting one as the price is damn good!!

Anyone here replaced their turbo's with on thats been highflowed from this thread?

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=131723

If so what kinda results did you get, l'm contemplating getting one as the price is damn good!!

Tangles has one on, not tuned yet though, sounds like he is very happy so far.

Thats right, its an awesome turbo.

Getting tuned next month (Feb 07), in rwd, expect 240rwkw at 1bar, or thereabouts

Pulls god damned hard at 13.5psi tho :) (at 14psi R&R kicked in)

Spins up onto boost really really well at 13.5, so at 15psi I expect it to be a bit of a ball tearer.

Will post the AFR's and dyno graph for the SITC/SAFCII tuned Slide turbo'd Stagea, ASAP

Got a better copy of my dyno sheet now:

I have extensively changed the settings since it was tuned as it drove like shit with the tuner's settings.

Waaay too much R&R which i have now smoothed out with extra SAFC/SITC tweaks.

Mods:

3" exhaust dump back

SAFC2

SITC

Pod filter

Profec B S2

Running 11.5-12psi

dynosmall.jpg

  • 4 weeks later...

Just got my stag retuned at BoostWorx here in SA.

Actually they only have a 2WD dyno so we drove over to Turbo Tune (5 mins away) to use their 4WD dyno. Shaun from BoostWorx still did all the work however, we just borrowed their dyno for a bit.

Not a bad result, since it was tuned by another guy only a few months ago.

Gained an extra 10kw at the top end and some nice gains in the midrange.

AFR's were sitting below 11:1 but are now a nicer 12:1.

The extra 10kw is basically due to ignition timing however the safc tuning improved the midrange somewhat.

Here's the pics...

(Max 158kw and note this is at all 4 wheels)

post-23960-1172104487.jpg post-23960-1172104503.jpg

I left the boost at 11-12 psi since I was happy with the power output and more boost would only affect the top end.

All in all it is still a bit laggy but with a big turbo like the GT30 its to be expected. Full boost seems to be around 4500rpm or thereabouts, although it starts winding up around 2500rpm. Its not all bad though, because cruising around off-boost saves on fuel :)

P.S. I do have the graph showing the official reading "157.9kw" but the other two graphs I have shown above were more meaningful - showing boost and AFR's. :)

Edited by pixel8r
Pixel8r : Looks like a boost controller would give you a decent hp bonus as your boost is falling off like the standard turbo.

I really need a better turbo that doesnt fall off after 5krpm :D

Yeah I know.

Otherwise i'd be happy to put up with the current boost controller but just up the boost a couple psi so it AVERAGES 11-12psi rather than just pokes at it initially... :(

but a decent boost controller costs a lot of money and mine cost $30 off ebay so I'm not complaining at all :(

Its a needle valve type (same as the $22 boost controller on this forum) so fairly reliable too.

My GT30 turbo really wants more boost than I give it (would be most efficient around 14-18 psi i'm guessing), but I'm moving interstate and will be training to rekindle my career in IT so once again the car is pushed further down the priority list :yes:

The biggest thing I noticed from my last tune is that I gained 10kw mainly through ignition timing - and the combination of ignition timing and more efficient tune with the SAFC has made the car noticeably more responsive right throughout the rev range. The car just feels a lot faster with more get up and go. I'm loving it ;)

$150 well spent! If anyone in SA has not been to boostworx yet, GO THERE. Your car will love you for it :(

got the car on the dyno today and still had some issues on higher boost with misfiring, it was upto 22psi and managed 584rwhp (436rwkw) but it was getting worse the hotter it got so boost was turned down to 18psi and managed 545rwhp (407rwkw), its still got the misfire issues and its wiring related so its getting a full check over to see whats the problem in the next few days.

still goes alright and has no trouble smoking tyres in 1st, 2nd and 3rd gear now (in 2wd) :laugh: and its damn loud when revving out :laugh:

heres the final dyno graph as it is now...

IMG_2656edited.jpg

Edited by CruiseLiner

*schwiiiiinnng*

You must be happier than a dog with 2 doodles with an intermittant result like that. Can't wait to see what it will do fully sorted.

Well done dude!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...