Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Cool. Any idea the best place to get one? Closed my door when I got home and the window exploded!

That is Crazy! Do you think it was touching something hard inside the door?

or maybe too much air pressure inside... Seals too good.

Trojan? or whatever JapSpec turned into?

or Try Jap Parts in Fyshwick maybe...

Damian 0449775209 -

Ph: 6280 0606

Ah: 6280 8898

Tell him Rob with the R31 Wagon sent ya! :thumbsup:

hmm that is strange....I agree it seems likely it either hit something inside or maybe the lower seal is rusted/loose?

anyway, if you find a window in Sydney I can bring it down next week.

Bub wanted to get up at 5 this morning.....

Lucky he did, i found water spreading across the lino floor.

One of the fishtanks is leaking. Emptied it out, fish in a bucket, took it outside.

Good excuse to get rid of it...... dont tell the missus i said that. ;)

less fish time=more skyline time

Anyone want a pair of Angelfish?

Edited by D.I.Y. Mik

I once had an old Pintara as a daily that someone smashed the window on. We got the window from the wreckers and I can't remember it taking Pete more than a couple of hours all up to fix?

Different car but still Nissan with all electric bits etc.

Surprised also if there's not a tutorial on here how to do it somewhere.

Hi Eric - have done it twice on my 32

It's not complex at all but the first time will take 1-2hrs. It's mainly about the angle of getting glass out/in.

Make certain you give it a great vacuum if the glass has shattered.

It gets every where but particularly on the brushes and inner/outer window strips

Which means if you don't do it properly your new (2nd hand) window will scratch-up the first time you put it up/down.

It's 10 minst to get the door card off and all the window switches out and unplugged

bout 10-20 to undo the nuts holding the window in

bout 10-20mins removing the window - but if yours is shattered just the thourough vacuum and removal of broken glass.

I did it alone but it would be a lot easier if there are 2 of you. Just balancing the window, slotting it in and doing the nuts up whilst the other holds the galss in place.

TFE mate.

$150 for a window and $300 to install it.

How hard are they to install? Anyone have any idea?

Cheers.

It wont be too hard would just need 2 sets of hands to do it.

I might be able to assist tomorrow night if you need

yeah DIY is very do-able, cleaning it out is the pain as said above. Also check for rust in the channel that holds the window, and also rust or damage to the "waist mould" that goes along the top of the door.

the only other issue can be adjusting the window afterwards (we had heaps of trouble in the 350z) but I think a 33 should be old enough to just do a straight replacement without any annoying adjustments.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I was 99% sure the standard one is long enough to get there, you might just have to change the throttle orientation. If not, I remember someone having used an r31 cable instead, but that is probably harder to find than r33 by now...
    • HELP   Hey all, Is there an accelerator cable from another Nissan that can be used on the R33 GTST RB25DET with a Greddy forward facing plenum?  Thanks in advance  Rob 
    • Or do we think it was installed to give 1 bar of boost max, all day, everyday?
    • So could it be assumed it has been installed intentionally with potentially a power FC boost controller kit? 
    • Had my rig on Matt's dyno at PITS the other day. After a few years between tunes I added a few sensors and swapped intercoolers. Result. 553hp at 26psi. Not bad for an FJ20 that was built in 2007. The problem.. It filled the overflow bottle on hard runs which leads me to believe the head gasket isn't sealing. I have a coolant pressure sensor which was reading cap pressure at 22psi and occasionally overrunning to 23/24 psi on deceleration after a pull. It was not spiking. It has arp2000 head studs and a cometic gasket. As its been 18 years in service, I pulled the engine out and head off. Everything looks good but we obviously have an issue. Where I'm at.. Years ago I had the same issue, I checked the stud tension and they were all over the place. Some at 60 to 70 and some up near 90. I nipped them all to 100ft lbs and this stopped the water push until now. I believe this compromised the gasket back then. What do I do? 2 options are..  1) I bought arp 625+s, which I could put in with a new gasket. Thinking Kameari this time, reassemble and try again. 2) strip the block, get fire rings machined in with copper gasket and try that. I do not want to push it more than 28 to 30psi. I think the turbo will be out by then anyway. (G30-770). My other concern is the long term ability of a copper head gasket. Are they streetable for years? I feel like a new gasket with the new studs will probably suffice, but I don't know. Any thoughts welcome and advice on copper gaskets and fire rings. Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...