Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ATR43G3 .82 with high pressure actuator:

800cc injectors

Nistune ECU

Z32 AFM

600x300x75mm FMIC

3inch turbo back exhaust

3inch intake pipe with pod.

CP pistons

Stock engine head

Stock cams

Stock cam gears

Stock exhaust manifold

Stock inlet manifold

Stock fuel rail

Stock engine block, Con rod & Crank.

This is a controlled run based on BP 98 Fuel, No boost controller, No wastegate controller.

atr43g3303rwkw.jpg

atr43g3303rwkwboost.jpg

Video of above run is up for people whom's interested to watch:

R33 GTST turbo PU high flowed .82 with high pressure actuator:

800cc injectors

Nistune ECU

Z32 AFM

600x300x75mm FMIC

3inch turbo back exhaust

3inch intake pipe with pod.

CP pistons

Pu high flow .82

Stock engine head

Stock cams

Stock cam gears

Stock exhaust manifold

Stock inlet manifold

Stock fuel rail

Stock engine block, Con rod & Crank.

puinstall1.jpg

puinstall2.jpg

Video of 3 dyno runs:

Final result:

puhf305rwkw.jpg

puhf305rwkwboost.jpg

powerve.png

rebuilt RB25 with forged pistons etc

GTR Injectors

Z32 AFM

Nistune + RB20 Computer

VCT running via eboost-street between 1500 and 4500rpm

Running 18psi on a GCG highflowed RB20 turbo

Full 3" straight through exhaust with one muffler, split pulse dump pipe.

Makes 236kw @ 6300 - 7200rpm on 18psi, drops down to 15psi by redline due to the tiny exhaust housing.

Makes 210kw on 12psi at similar rpm.

rev limit at 7500rpm

think the dyno is fairly low reading as the car is an absolute animal to drive, turbo has basically standard response and absolute zero lag, can make about 6psi by 2500rpm, full boost by about 3-3.5k

1993 R33 series 1 GTS-T

Hypergear ATR43G2 highflow turbo (0.82ex 0.60A/R)

Nismo 740cc injectors

Bosch 044 mounted in tank

3" Just Jap dump/front pipe, unknown rattly cat (probs gutted/fked compliance or something), 3.5" catback

Splitfire coilpacks

ViPEC v44 ECU

Large FMIC

3" metal intake, pod filter, fibreglass cold air box w/ heat shielding inside

284rwkw @ 15psi on PULP98

R32 with Rb25 with all standard internals

Gt35/40 with 63 rear

6 boost manifold

tiall 44mm external gate

sard 850cc injectors

split fire coils

2 1/2 " exhaust

race cat

haltech e11 v2

blitz dual solenoid boost controller

bosch 044

running 23 psi made 398 rwhp for a year

turned timing down still on 23 psi making 387rwhp

pump fuel

post-77086-1285330381_thumb.jpg

Edited by jordy86

ATR43G3 twiked version in .82 with high pressure actuator set at 17psi:

R33 RB25det fully stock

800cc injectors

Nistune ECU

Z32 AFM

600x300x75mm FMIC

3inch turbo back exhaust

3inch intake pipe with pod.

98 Fuel.

atr43g3p2290rwkw.jpg

R34 GT-T

RB25DET Neo

Hypergear ATR43G3 hi flow, standard nissan compressor housing with 0.82 exhaust housing.

3" Turbo back exhaust

Custom 3" to 2.5" intake with Apexi Pod Filter

Trust Turnflow Intercooler

Z32 AFM

Nismo Fuel Pump

Deatschworks 800cc injectors

Nistune

BP Ultimate 98

279.5rwkw @ 15.8psi, couldnt get the turbo to hold 17psi to redline. Should be some more top end power once we sort that out.

HUGE thanks to Trent from Status Tuning and Tao from Hypergear!! The amount of time they both spent helping sort out issues such as twisting intake pipe, changing spark plug gaps, trying different actuator settings is much appreciated.

post-29432-1285889756_thumb.jpg

post-29432-1285889772_thumb.jpg

R33 Gts-t Series 2

unopened rb25det

Garrett GT3076R .82

RB25DET

Hybrid Front Mount Intercooler

3A Racing Pod Filter

Nismo 740cc Injectors

Z32 Air Flow Meter

Custom 3 inch metal intake pipe

Garrett 3 inch Dump pipe

Modified 3inch JJR front pipe

Fujistubo 3 inch Catback

Greddy Cam gears

Bosch 040 Fuel Pump

Ported Exhaust manifold

Blitz Dual SBC spec r

All controlled by an Apexi Power FC

Making 281.1rwkw with 19psi dropping to 18psi

Next is E85 ;)

post-8025-1286332991_thumb.jpg

  • 3 weeks later...

Nothing new here

But i picked up one of those GCG 3071r copies s/h not realizing at the time how much different it would be

Feels good but wishing i had the genuine garrett now, of course, hindsight is a wonderful bitch

Full boost comes on a bit later than I'd hoped, around 3800rpm. But its done now... :P

@18psi, tapers down to 16psi

DSC01688.jpg

Edited by Arthur T3

Duel ceramic Ball bearing OP6 R34 Neo turbo high flow

R33 RB25det fully stock head and forged bottom.

800cc injectors

Nistune ECU

Z32 AFM

600x300x75mm FMIC

3inch turbo back exhaust

3inch intake pipe with pod.

98 Fuel.

op6highflow321rwkw.jpg

Video footage

  • 2 weeks later...

Duel ceramic Ball bearing ATR43G3 Prototype 2

R33 RB25det fully stock head and forged bottom.

800cc injectors

Nistune ECU

Z32 AFM

600x300x75mm FMIC

3inch turbo back exhaust

4inch intake pipe with pod.

98 Fuel.

Power curve of last two runs. (car's developed a valve bounce issue)

atr43g3300rwkw.jpg

Boost

atr43g3300rwkwboost.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know why it happened and I’m embarrassed to say but I was testing the polarity of one of the led bulb to see which side was positive with a 12v battery and that’s when it decided to fry hoping I didn’t damage anything else
    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
×
×
  • Create New...