Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Sorry to do this kinda thread again, but all the others get caught up in bull$hit stories. Only people that actually HAVE/HAD PowerFC's or Wolf's need comment in here as I don't want to hear "I heard my mate done this and it f*cked up that"

I'm lookin for a new ECU/Turbo package.

I'm trying to decide between a Wolf3D, or a PowerFC for the job. I wanna know disadvantages/advantages of both and experiences anyone has had with them. Healthy debate only please. LOCAL people only too please.

The PowerFC can be had with hand controller for around $980 - $1000

The Wolf3D can be had for around $1400 I'm told.

Benefits of Wolf

*Rotational Idle

*Antilag

*Boost Control

*Uses MAP Sensor

Benefits of PowerFC

*Large range of Tuners

*More Maps?

*Plug'n'Play

Okay, let me know what you think....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/56679-show-of-hands-powerfc-or-wolf3d/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 125
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Wolf do a plug and play for the R33 as well.

Doesn't come with rotational idle though.

Tuning would mainly be done by one shop as they are very good at getting results out of these things that other shops can't.

We have an as new one for sale for $1150

Power FC is a very good computer and has a wider tuning base to work from( ie more shops will do them ).

There are pros and cons for both which I'm sure will only end in a bitch fight again so I suggest you talk to people in PM who have them and ask for there opinions re hot start, cold start, ability to drive large injectors, fuel consumption and cost to get it properly tuned.

Cheers

Ken

Con,

Both computer systems are good.

Something to note is that the power FC uses the MAP sensor inputs much more than most people realise. You can watch the tracer move across the fuel/ignition maps when on boost, ie across the rev range on a fixed Map input.

Personally, I use the Power FC, but there again I only have 300 rwhp.

Programming it is a snack. It starts reliably, hot or cold and drives like an unmodified factory offering.

The decision comes down to this:

The power FC runs better when cruising around town, but can be constrained by airflow meters (In terms of overall flow) at full noise. Power FC will run large injectors well.

Wolf 3D has most of its benefits in large HP motors & will use more fuel when cruising.

For my 10 cents worth, if you are not going for silly horsepower, Power FC is the go.

Both units are the only way to go with Street R33s, The only advantage we have is boost control standard and MAP or MAF sensor plus an Australian warranty.We sell and recommend both. PFC is avalible with MAP sensor now. It only comes down to what is the best deal you work out but take boost kits and larger AFMs into count if needed.

Barries dyno is another shop that does well with Wolfs.

We can give you a demo on both.

Had PFC in both my GTSt and the R.. Never had a drama with either of them, starts perfect everytime. Having said that I'd happily give the wolf a try considering some of the results the boys have got with em...

I run 700cc injectors and the PFC handles em fine.

Would you honestly use antilag if you had it????

Well i have the Wolf and seem ok with it.

the only prob i have is that my air con when turned on keeps stalling the car, i have now spoken to workshop and this can fixed!

ALL GOOD!! and am happy chappy!!

go wolf..... have you ever heard how cool rotational idling sounds!! stuff anti lag rotational idling sounds Yummy!

Brett,

Hell no - but Its one of those things, I'd rather have it and not need it rather than need/want it and not have it... :D Rotational Idle I would have but :D

Dan,

I'm assuming you're using an external EBC, and not the in-built wolf boost control ?

Stuff like that - the aircon stalling is EXACTLY the kinda stuff I want to know :) Thanks

If i had my time again I think I'd go the PFC a lot of initial cold start issues and the auxilaries (like air con, full lock on the steering wheel causing the power steering pump to work harder) coming on making the car stall. I think the PFC and hand controller will also tell you how much engine knock you have, dont think the wolf does that and more tuners around for the PFC as well.

I had a PFC in my old S15 and until recently a PFC in my R. I liked them and found the HC a useful "extra gauge". I particularly liked the knock monitor function as this gave me a good indication as to "how far from the edge" the car was tuned. This helps with "road tuning" for conditions that don't show up on dyno runs (such as very hot weather, sustained high speed/high boost runs on the open road etc).

Without a Datalogit, the PFC is a time consuming to tune. Note that there are firmware quirks between the models with the PFC and not all of the older models are supported by the Datalogit. If you want to be able to log data and change maps (even infrequently), then the Datalogit is essential.

When you factor in the cost of the PFC, HC, Datalogit, bigger AFM's, it actually starts to become a fairly expensive package.

I've chosen to go the Wolf route as I've seen some excellent results first hand from SST on GTR's. For me it's a case of following in the footsteps of people that have achieved first hand what I am aiming for.

My advice is speak to and spend time with owners of each unit and weigh up the pros and cons based on where you (realistically) want to go with your 'line.

My opinion for what it's worth.

I have been running the power FC for a few months now and have been nothing but happy with the results. Everything works the same as it did with the factory ECU (air-con, cold start etc) and I get reasonable power with decent fuel economy.

For a dedicated daily driver and only chasing modest power I think the power FC is a good option. As far as costs go though, I don't think it is necessarily cheaper when you factor in an AFM('s) and EBC on top.

Disclaimer: I don't know much about either ECU, I just know I have had no probs with what I've got.

I've just gone with a PFC also. Very very happy with it. Only prob I am having at the moment is that sometimes it wont start first time, and when it does, shitloads of "fuel" smoke leaves the exhaust. Any ideas as to how I can fix this?

But yeah, everything I would have said, has already been said....so I will leave it at that.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
×
×
  • Create New...