Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

HOLY BRAIN STRAIN BATMAN :D:D

Well that was informative while at the same time headache forming.

Anyway, I just recently sold my 91 240sx SE that of course had Super HICAS. After looking carefully at the wiring diagram for the car I found that all I had to do was remove a fuse (from the panel inside the car, driver's side) marked ELECTRONICS to disable the HICAS system. That locked it up, straight just as Nissan states, and had no further issues.

Now from what I've "heard" the Skylines use a better system but the premiss should still be the same as it's electronically controlled. Disable the system and it'll lock. So I'm gona try this option first and if it does'nt work out properly, I will look in to one of the bars being offered. I'd just really like a clear cut, no nonsense, step by step install (with pic's) for a GTS-t. Anyone willing to post up on this?

Thanks guys.

Cheers B)

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...
  • 2 months later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Installed my lock bar today, went in pretty easy, very happy with it, doing the wheel alignment tomorrow morning.

thanks geoff, great product and from seeing 8 pages to this thread...plenty of support to anyone having troubles.

I'll be using my car for the drift training day this weekend so should make it easier to do massive dori dori circles!!!

cheers

abcent, glad you like. Hope the dorifto is good too.

Jon, slowly producing but the back has spat the dummy so I can't walk right now (lose the use of my left leg due to disc rupture crimping the nerve). usually takes a few days to sort out but I have plenty of stock to get bars out withing a week of ordering. Cheers.

TO HICAS OR NOT TO HICAS THAT IS THE QUESTION. OK. let me get this straight,if i replace the HICAS rack in a R33 GTR with

a HICAS LOCK BAR.

1. Will i loose power assist to the front wheels at low/parking speeds but it

will feel the same at higher speeds?

2. Will the HICAS warning light come on/stay on and require the warning light

bulb to be removed?

3. Which FEELS better for street driving HICAS OR LOCKED?

does anyone know the answers to this question ?

I thought this had been answered many times across the forum but:

1. No you won't lose power steer, it simply reverts to the slightly harder setting. Noticeable when cranking around a roundabout at about 50kmh. Fitting a set of castor adjustors in my case completely removed the effect and improved turn in dramatically.

2. Yes.

3. It depends. Some people shouldn't have a license and probably can't tell if the front or rear wheels do the steering on their car. Just about everyone else will get some benefit. If you ever get some oversteer at over 80 kmh (and it can happen even if not hooning, I came around a bend where some tool had tracked mud onto the road and had a brief moment in the GTR) you will find the rears turn in the direction of the slide creating a tank slapper effect. This has resulted in numerous loss of control situations.

Hope that helps.

  • 4 weeks later...
Next you need to remove the lock wiring on the rubber boots at each end, pull back the boots and then "crack off" the large 4 sided rod end so they are easier to remove later.

"crack off" is a term mechanics use to break the initial resistance a nut or bolt has. These are threaded but you may need a large mallet or bar to help if you aren't strong enough to get them to move.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes, I know🙄 but the sequential is not in my budget... don't want to reduce power neither, so looks like I'm stuck in the rabbit hole🤣
    • You’ll be very upset when you bust that too not to mention the gearing totally sucks. Don’t do it.
    • Is the panel filter one that is oiled? Have you ever cleaned or touched the AFM?
    • So.... the K&N air box thingo was too big, ended up gifting it to a mate, well, by gifting it he actually supplied food and beer at the pub,  which was nice, as it will not sit on a shelf in the garage for the next 10 years I did trim up some of the existing stuff to neaten it all up and gave it some wrinkle paint, unfortunately it currently has a used and abused mish mash of different types of hose clamps, 4 big fat T bolt type (shit), and a few normal clamps of vairing sizes and brands, but..... only until the 6 constant tension black worm clamps that I ordered from EFI solutions turn up next week Currently the current hose clamps are triggering me hard, LOL Is this the final version, probably not, I really want just 2 silicone pieces, a straight bit of silicone from the filter to the MAF is easy and will happen as soon as I head into Just Jap tomorrow, the problematic part is a 30° silicone bend from the MAF to the TB that I can connect the engine breather from the head, I found that there are bulk head fittings for boat bilge pumps that should work, but until I can get a 30° silicone bend the alloy pipe, and the 11ty thousand hose clamps, are there for the foreseeable future 4 hose clamps are golden, 6 are grudgingly acceptable, the 8 currently holding it all together is just taking the piss    I've also ordered 60 more retaining wall blocks for the front yard, I mis-gonculated the height that was required to get above the base of the Photinia's (red robin's) that are the hedge behind the front fence, currently it is 2 blocks high, and about 1/2 a block short, so going 3 blocks high will be above the base of the red robin's, and allow some room for mulch
×
×
  • Create New...