Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 5 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...

everyone is going about removing the HICAS what is the main benefit of removing it maybe a noob question but ive read the 300ZX sites and some of the people on there like it and they have reached the 20yr old mark.

Edited by B-rice
  • 3 weeks later...

hi, am in the middle of removing the hicas unit behind the diff, how exactly do u " crackoff" the rod ends which connect to the unit. thanks

exactly my thoughts, how to do this??

have you done yours?

breaker bar with these kinda tool attached? (http://imgur.com/sUJ7i)

  • 2 months later...

I hate to revive an old thread, but I will be fitting a HICAS lock bar to my S1 R33 GTST.

The instructions on page 1 seem a little outdated given the comments in the rest of the thread, alot of people are doing alot of different things about the power steering lines etc.

Has anybody done on a 33 recently, what did you do and were you happy with the outcome ?

Attempted this last night with not alot of success. I couldn't "crack" the 4 sided rod out of the HICAS unit . The HICAS bar I brought still has the arms in it , now I know why !

It's going to need persuasion of the vice kind I reckon ! . So I thought seeing my bar had arms already , that I would just remove the HICAS system as one whole unit .

Well that didn't happen because one of the nuts was rusted shut , it started to round off which is when I stopped . Put my HICAS back in , cracked a beer and called it a day .

Thinks I might just get a workshop to put it in and wheel align at the same time .

It seems what should have been a simple job ended up being a pain in my arse .

Can anybody in Adelaide recommend a workshop that is happy to put a HICAS lock bar in with wheel alignment without robbing me ?

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

I just tried to remove mine and... i have a 3 and a half inch exhaust on my 34 GTR, so could not get the the right hand side, and could not crack off the arms -_- to a mechanic tomorrow to do it, dont have the tools i need to do it correctly fml

  • 2 months later...

has anyone here ever had issues with the arms coming loose after they have installed the HICAS lock bar?

I had my wheels aligned after installing coilovers and the car didnt feel right, but i couldnt figure out what it was. then i was driving it the other day and the rear rod that connects to the lock bar came out of the lock bar :/

had a look underneath the car for the first time today since and noticed the other side was loose as well. has anyone had this issue? i did them up bloody tight when i first installed it.

  • 2 months later...
  • 2 months later...

No. It might take a bit of load off the tie rod end when you're undoing it but it won't cause any dramas doing it jacked up.

However in saying that, most suspension components should be tightened up with the car sitting as close to normal ride height as possible (wheels/suspension carrying the load). It's more of an issue with rubber bushes as they will twist and bind up a bit if you fully tighten them before lowering the car onto the wheels. You should assemble the parts with the bolts loosely tightened then lower the car onto blocks under the wheels or put the jack stands under the rear arms so the suspension is bearing the load (this is done so you can still get under the car!) and then tighten everything up to the correct torque. Drop it down onto the ground and should be all good.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes, I know🙄 but the sequential is not in my budget... don't want to reduce power neither, so looks like I'm stuck in the rabbit hole🤣
    • You’ll be very upset when you bust that too not to mention the gearing totally sucks. Don’t do it.
    • Is the panel filter one that is oiled? Have you ever cleaned or touched the AFM?
    • So.... the K&N air box thingo was too big, ended up gifting it to a mate, well, by gifting it he actually supplied food and beer at the pub,  which was nice, as it will not sit on a shelf in the garage for the next 10 years I did trim up some of the existing stuff to neaten it all up and gave it some wrinkle paint, unfortunately it currently has a used and abused mish mash of different types of hose clamps, 4 big fat T bolt type (shit), and a few normal clamps of vairing sizes and brands, but..... only until the 6 constant tension black worm clamps that I ordered from EFI solutions turn up next week Currently the current hose clamps are triggering me hard, LOL Is this the final version, probably not, I really want just 2 silicone pieces, a straight bit of silicone from the filter to the MAF is easy and will happen as soon as I head into Just Jap tomorrow, the problematic part is a 30° silicone bend from the MAF to the TB that I can connect the engine breather from the head, I found that there are bulk head fittings for boat bilge pumps that should work, but until I can get a 30° silicone bend the alloy pipe, and the 11ty thousand hose clamps, are there for the foreseeable future 4 hose clamps are golden, 6 are grudgingly acceptable, the 8 currently holding it all together is just taking the piss    I've also ordered 60 more retaining wall blocks for the front yard, I mis-gonculated the height that was required to get above the base of the Photinia's (red robin's) that are the hedge behind the front fence, currently it is 2 blocks high, and about 1/2 a block short, so going 3 blocks high will be above the base of the red robin's, and allow some room for mulch
    • It is the stock air box with the panel filter. Everything else is stock except the exhaust at this point, as I also went back to the cleaned 270cc injectors. I will check the RPM when the IACV is unplugged and report back.
×
×
  • Create New...