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Unlike other 4WS systems, the HICAS only activates if the car is above ~ 70km/hr and only in response to certain conditions. So it won't activate at all on a hoist, unless in diagnostic mode as GTRGeoff says.

I have a S13, i noticed there is some problems.. my toe is out, and my toe control rods look stuffed.

I dont have hicas thou. But the toe rods are pillowball ** NOT STRAIGHT THROUGH BOLTS **

is this hicas? or is this just toe control? but my mates toe rods are differnt, they are just straight through bolts ( on the stub axle's ) not a pillowball type joint.

Is this hicas or not?

because i am looking at geting aftermarket toe control rods to fix my toe and adjust it to my prefferd specs, but it says **only for non hicas model **

cheers

  • 4 weeks later...
Just to clarify some of the questions about R32 GTR....

To remove HICAS altogether.....buy one of Geoff's bars, and either....a new power steering pump with 1 output, or a bolt the right size to replace the rear line outlet.

Disconnect the 2 ball joints at the hubs, and then remove the 2 bolts holding the HICAS bar to the subframe.  Be amazed at how heavy it is.

Disconnect the 2 lines from the chassis that go to the HICAS bar, there are a couple of brackets holding the lines to the subframe.

Disconnect the 2 lines right to the front of the car, right up at the HICAS solenoids next to the plenum.

Remove both inlet and outlet lines from the HICAS solenoid (these lines run back to the power steering pump and power steer reservoir.  Unlpug the wires and remove the bracket.  Enjoy how much easier it is to remove your oil filter.

Remove the rear line from the power steering pump, unbolt the brackets and cut the metal pipe as it links around the power steering lines underneath (unless the engine is out in which case it just lifts out :cheers:)

Remove the line that run from the HICAS solenoid to the cooler to the reservoir.  Remove the whole cooler and all its brackets.  Remove the other line that runs from the solenoid to the pipe you just cut.

Put a nice big bolt in a short piece of line to block the empty exit from the reservoir.

Clean up the power steering fluid that is all over your garage floor.

Like anything, double check to make sure you have the right pipes, esp before you start cutting!  There will be only 2 power steer lines left in the engine bay, it will go from one of the reservoir outlets to the front of the power steer pump, around the engine bay to the steering rack, then back around the back of the engine bay and back to the reservoir.

Thanks a lot for that Duncan, just one quick question. It appears the lines run to the front power steering rack and from there to the solenoid.

Do you just unbolt them all and leave it, or do you have to plug them?

This is for a A31 Cefiro, however everything seems R32 based.

can you simply fit the bar and just pull the plug on the hicas motor near the diff, ive read throgh this thread and ive been really keen to by a lock bar, but im a bit confused on will it cause me any damage to my steering system, will i lose steering at high speeds ect ect, im sure im not the only one, but everyones sayin different things, is it possible to, keep front power steering, and lock the arse end.. in black and white ifso then im sold,

ok hot tip after spending a huge amount of time and $$$$ fixing the powersteering on my car this is what I have learnt :D

for the R32 GTR :-

do as Duncan says except that the rear wheel of the pump should be removed, via pulling the backing plate off...

R33 pumps do not fit at all....

use some form of oil cooler for the remaining system, or it will go bang

I have now got a second pump in the car as the first died due to over pressuring the rear pump.... oh dear....

have fun!!!

  • 2 weeks later...

So guys, for a 32 gtst

what is the overall verdict.

Do you have to remove/modify/replace the power steering pump?

Can you just put the lock bar in place, and block the hoses at the diff end? Or what?

I am so confused by this thread haha. Perhaps a new one should be started with the information collated?

HICAS BARS are now in production

Thankyou for your patience while I was establishing a manufacturing base to provide a quality component for you. I am now in a position to start taking orders and shipping bars.

I expect there will be somewhat of a rush so for the first week you must be a little patient. All Australian shipping will be overnight. I will attempt to service those who state a legitimate requirement for rapid delivery then on an as paid basis.

Regards

Geoff Williams

Payment Methods

Primary Preferred Method

Direct Deposit:

Deposit $150 per HICAS lock delivered in Australia to:

Bank Account Name: NS and GR Williams

Account Number: 20516937

BSB: 803-205

Bank: Defcredit

Payment Description: *your-name* HICAS

Email details of car type and postal delivery address to [email protected]

Item will be posted after funds clear.

For overseas shipping confirm cost first with me.

I am working on making a website for PayPal payments with credit cards

TO HICAS OR NOT TO HICAS THAT IS THE QUESTION. OK. let me get this straight,if i replace the HICAS rack in a R33 GTR with

a HICAS LOCK BAR.

1. Will i loose power assist to the front wheels at low/parking speeds but it

will feel the same at higher speeds?

2. Will the HICAS warning light come on/stay on and require the warning light

bulb to be removed?

3. Which FEELS better for street driving HICAS OR LOCKED?

ok update....

first attempt was to DUNCAN specs and it failed the pump, now I have a new pump with the rear wheel removed and the pipe blocked and all the assoc. crap removed also....

however, leaving the 2 lines under the car they are now taped into the return line from the rack with a loop at the rear...

the trick part is that the fluid now runs to the rear of the car, and in the void I have fitted a small transmission cooler and it works great!

you can feel the pipes on the return after a long run, and they are significantly cooler than the outward ones...

also it increases the volume of fluid....

trial and error as they say!

but this has served on the track and survived....

So guys,  for a 32 gtst

what is the overall verdict.

Do you have to remove/modify/replace the power steering pump?

Can you just put the lock bar in place, and block the hoses at the diff end? Or what?

I am so confused by this thread haha. Perhaps a new one should be started with the information collated?

Same on this end. I just bought a bar from a local guy and need to install it. I was told by a few nissan heads over here that the power steering pump would have to be changed. none of them have done it to an R32 gtst type m, and it's rare to know anybody who has.

R32 GTS-t type M, what needs to be done to remove everything?

man if you dont want a new pump you have to pull the back part of the current pump off, then remove the circle looking thing that spins around this will stop the second half of the pump pumping fluid, when i did mine i just bought a new r31 pump cos it was a fair bit lighter...lol the only thing that was differant i had to use a smaller belt as the grooves on the r31 pump was only 3 groove whereas the r32 pump was 4 groove.....my setup works great and saved me 20.5kg of weight that i ripped out cos i ripped everything that looked, smelt or felt like hicas.

  • 3 weeks later...

Has anyone put one of these bars on an R34 GT-T?

Any problems with steering getting heavy at low speeds etc? I wasn't aware the R34's had the variable power assistance, so were there any problems once you:

1. fit the bar

2. rip out HICAS globe from dashboard

???

Thanks

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