Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I too was considering doing a boost curve similar to this. I spoke to SK about this and he said that even though you're not running 12 psi at redline, there is no way to guarantee that you're not spinning the turbo too fast at middling revs. I suppose a reason for this could be that the very restrictive SMIC (on a Skyline, the Stageas are FMIC stock, right?) can start introducing an excessively high (3-5 psi) restriction above 10 psi @ engine, making your turbo work (and therefore, spin) very hard above 10 psi. Maybe something to be aware of? Or, you've calculated that it's OK?

Just wondering, how does it feel with boost tapering off? Does it make the engine feel a bit "dead" towards redline?

Also, have you noticed any reduction in fuel consumption, even when off-boost?

I really want to get my IEBC and DFA installed - I stuffed something on both kits and SK's still got them... so ATM I'm running on wastegate spring pressure (about 4.5 psi) and it's slooooow :P

I can definitely see what your saying about the possible pressure drop across the core of the SMIC. I am pretty sure I have read though that the standard S2 SMIC is R34 GT-T and can take 200awkw. I highly doubt i am even @ 150awkws. One plan i do have, is to put another boost gauge pre-SMIC for testing so i can see what the difference is.

I am so close to getting a fully stable map at top end, but i can still feel the RB power dip around the 5-6000rpm mark. Didn't gap the plugs yet, so that is this weekend now.

I filled up a full tank today, so i will let you know when it's dry what i got. I normally average 150 klms to each 1/4 mark on the guage so 600ks till refill so i will check that too. It feels so responsive and crisp now, I don't have to put the pedal down as far for hills ands overtaking on the hway is effortless in 5th gear just touching the throttle a bit more than you would cruising.

  • Replies 1k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

I can definitely see what your saying about the possible pressure drop across the core of the SMIC. I am pretty sure I have read though that the standard S2 SMIC is R34 GT-T and can take 200awkw. I highly doubt i am even @ 150awkws. One plan i do have, is to put another boost gauge pre-SMIC for testing so i can see what the difference is.

I am so close to getting a fully stable map at top end, but i can still feel the RB power dip around the 5-6000rpm mark. Didn't gap the plugs yet, so that is this weekend now.

I filled up a full tank today, so i will let you know when it's dry what i got. I normally average 150 klms to each 1/4 mark on the guage so 600ks till refill so i will check that too. It feels so responsive and crisp now, I don't have to put the pedal down as far for hills ands overtaking on the hway is effortless in 5th gear just touching the throttle a bit more than you would cruising.

Well, from memory (and this was a loooong time ago so I could have it wrong), SK reckoned the R33 GTS-T's SMIC could drop as much as 4-5 psi @ >10 psi. I just did my own test on the dyno with an HKS Type S FMIC (a different car) and that was dropping 3 psi @ 15 psi boost (engine)!! I was very surprised at that but I suppose I'm getting better cooling so it's all good ;)

So you're actually trying to hold 12 psi to redline?

Dayem, you're doing very well with fuel consumption like that! Is that with the DFA fitted? If so, what were you getting beforehand? On my R33 GTS-T (auto) I get about 400-450 km out of about 50-55L. That works out to be about 12.7L/100km on most tanks, which is definitely much worse than you! Also, that's driving pretty much like a granny (no point driving fast on 4.5 psi :P ) but it's probably considered "light" city driving, if there's such a thing... not so much sitting in traffic, just roads that are 50-60km/h limits with a few lights thrown in, and the odd 5 min cruise down the M4. The only time I'll beat that consumption is if I take a decently long trip which involves highway driving. My best tank was when driving to Melbourne where I got 9.3L/100km on 98 octane fuel but I've never beaten that - closest on subsequent trips (all highway driving) has been around 10.0L/100km but that was on 95 octane (which definitely increases consumption slightly).

I'm interested in finding out any ways to reduce fuel consumption as the GTS-T is my daily driver and even though I don't drive it *that* much, it would be nice to ease the load on the wallet by a few dollars per week! ;)

Well, from memory (and this was a loooong time ago so I could have it wrong), SK reckoned the R33 GTS-T's SMIC could drop as much as 4-5 psi @ >10 psi. I just did my own test on the dyno with an HKS Type S FMIC (a different car) and that was dropping 3 psi @ 15 psi boost (engine)!! I was very surprised at that but I suppose I'm getting better cooling so it's all good :D

So you're actually trying to hold 12 psi to redline?

Dayem, you're doing very well with fuel consumption like that! Is that with the DFA fitted? If so, what were you getting beforehand? On my R33 GTS-T (auto) I get about 400-450 km out of about 50-55L. That works out to be about 12.7L/100km on most tanks, which is definitely much worse than you! Also, that's driving pretty much like a granny (no point driving fast on 4.5 psi :whistling: ) but it's probably considered "light" city driving, if there's such a thing... not so much sitting in traffic, just roads that are 50-60km/h limits with a few lights thrown in, and the odd 5 min cruise down the M4. The only time I'll beat that consumption is if I take a decently long trip which involves highway driving. My best tank was when driving to Melbourne where I got 9.3L/100km on 98 octane fuel but I've never beaten that - closest on subsequent trips (all highway driving) has been around 10.0L/100km but that was on 95 octane (which definitely increases consumption slightly).

I'm interested in finding out any ways to reduce fuel consumption as the GTS-T is my daily driver and even though I don't drive it *that* much, it would be nice to ease the load on the wallet by a few dollars per week! :D

So if the R33 intercooler drops 4-5 @ 10psi, and the R34GT-T one in my S2Stagea is slightly larger, i wonder if i have more pressure drop ? i guess it comes more so down to internal design.. Geez i better get the second boost guage on this weekend.

Well I WAS going to try and hold 12psi, but you now have me more curious about the pressure drop. I will not go any further with mapping until i hook up 2nd boost guage now.

The main things i can think of in comparing our fuel consumption is,

1. I have NEO Motor.

2. I have 68ltr tank.

3. I have 5 speed Manual.

4. 80% of driving is @ 100-110km/h on the highway.

I don't have a DFA yet, my A'Pexi pencil turbo timer says i'm mainly running @ 14.5 A/F when cruising, normal take off from lights etc. When the power is down it slowly drops to 11-12 as it revs out. Don't know how accurate a turbo timer is for A/F tho ?

Also i refill as soon as the fuel light comes on, and usually to fill it again is 58 litres. So i guess i am getting 600 odd k's off 58ltrs = 9.67ltrs per 100km. The S2 Stag weighs 1650kg too.

So if the R33 intercooler drops 4-5 @ 10psi, and the R34GT-T one in my S2Stagea is slightly larger, i wonder if i have more pressure drop ? i guess it comes more so down to internal design.. Geez i better get the second boost guage on this weekend.

Well I WAS going to try and hold 12psi, but you now have me more curious about the pressure drop. I will not go any further with mapping until i hook up 2nd boost guage now.

The main things i can think of in comparing our fuel consumption is,

1. I have NEO Motor.

2. I have 68ltr tank.

3. I have 5 speed Manual.

4. 80% of driving is @ 100-110km/h on the highway.

I don't have a DFA yet, my A'Pexi pencil turbo timer says i'm mainly running @ 14.5 A/F when cruising, normal take off from lights etc. When the power is down it slowly drops to 11-12 as it revs out. Don't know how accurate a turbo timer is for A/F tho ?

Also i refill as soon as the fuel light comes on, and usually to fill it again is 58 litres. So i guess i am getting 600 odd k's off 58ltrs = 9.67ltrs per 100km. The S2 Stag weighs 1650kg too.

I highly doubt you'd have *more* of a pressure drop at 10 psi. AFAIK the stagea uses a decently sized FMIC? That means that they can most likely design it so that there's less of a pressure drop at low boosts. There really only is one way to tell, though - and that's to use two boost gauges as you said. Also, I think the R33 is probably one of the more restrictive IC's around so the 10 psi rule really only applies to that particular car.

That's still pretty impressive that you're getting under 10L/100km from a 1650kg car! At a guess, if I did 80% of my driving on the highway, I'd be around 10.5 - 11L/100km.

I'm also very surprised that you're not hitting R&R at those boost levels! Also from memory, the RB25DET NEO's R&R is quite savage - in that you almost go through the windscreen when it cuts in, so you'd definitely know if you've hit it :( On mine, I have an indicated 9-10 psi @ 3500-4500 rpm when it cuts in, and probably cuts out again at 5000-5500 rpm but it's not head-through-the-windscreen style, just a few pops through the exhaust and a noticeable loss of power. I drove it around that way for a while since I *thought* both my kits were working properly and was waiting to visit the dyno to get the DFA tuned, but then I discovered that the DFA would consistently burn through a particular resistor... :D Now SK's got the kits and I'm waiting for them back - I've been running on 4.5 psi for AGES and can't wait to see some 10 psi goodness!! I worked out I'm down about 75kW @ flywheel... :(

I highly doubt you'd have *more* of a pressure drop at 10 psi. AFAIK the stagea uses a decently sized FMIC? That means that they can most likely design it so that there's less of a pressure drop at low boosts. There really only is one way to tell, though - and that's to use two boost gauges as you said. Also, I think the R33 is probably one of the more restrictive IC's around so the 10 psi rule really only applies to that particular car.

That's still pretty impressive that you're getting under 10L/100km from a 1650kg car! At a guess, if I did 80% of my driving on the highway, I'd be around 10.5 - 11L/100km.

I'm also very surprised that you're not hitting R&R at those boost levels! Also from memory, the RB25DET NEO's R&R is quite savage - in that you almost go through the windscreen when it cuts in, so you'd definitely know if you've hit it :) On mine, I have an indicated 9-10 psi @ 3500-4500 rpm when it cuts in, and probably cuts out again at 5000-5500 rpm but it's not head-through-the-windscreen style, just a few pops through the exhaust and a noticeable loss of power. I drove it around that way for a while since I *thought* both my kits were working properly and was waiting to visit the dyno to get the DFA tuned, but then I discovered that the DFA would consistently burn through a particular resistor... :) Now SK's got the kits and I'm waiting for them back - I've been running on 4.5 psi for AGES and can't wait to see some 10 psi goodness!! I worked out I'm down about 75kW @ flywheel... :)

I've definitely got a SMIC, almost all turbo stagea's do. Series 1 have R33 IC, Series 2 have R34GT-T IC. It's mounted in the lower left of the front bumper with a duct and the air exit's through the wheel arch. It's only the RS260's that get FMIC due to RB26.

Thanks man, i'm pretty happy with the fuel consumption too :) Still got over a 1/4 of a tank of fuel and done 425km so far. Looks like 600k's again before light comes on.

I think i was hitting R&R when i had a sloppy map setup a week ago. I was accelerating up a hill going from 2nd-3rd and as boost was coming on up to around 10-11 psi at about 3000rpm it just died in a instant snap. I backed off the throttle instantly and continued mapping with windscreen intact :).

I feel for ya mate being on only 4.5psi ! When i was setting up the IEBC I had the ECU still controlling the solenoid aswell, and could only hit 7psi - even that felt slow again. 4.5psi would be crazy. zzzzZZZzzzzz :)

I've definitely got a SMIC, almost all turbo stagea's do. Series 1 have R33 IC, Series 2 have R34GT-T IC. It's mounted in the lower left of the front bumper with a duct and the air exit's through the wheel arch. It's only the RS260's that get FMIC due to RB26.

Ahh right, I must be thinking of the M35 Stagea then?

I think i was hitting R&R when i had a sloppy map setup a week ago. I was accelerating up a hill going from 2nd-3rd and as boost was coming on up to around 10-11 psi at about 3000rpm it just died in a instant snap. I backed off the throttle instantly and continued mapping with windscreen intact :P.

I don't think your boost map (is that what you meant?) is sloppy, it's just your ECU responding to more air than it expects, so you'll need to get around this by using a DFA, but that will definitely need to be tuned on the dyno. As you know, you *want* as much boost as possible at as low rpm as possible, so 10-11 psi by 3000 rpm sounds pretty nice!

I feel for ya mate being on only 4.5psi ! When i was setting up the IEBC I had the ECU still controlling the solenoid aswell, and could only hit 7psi - even that felt slow again. 4.5psi would be crazy. zzzzZZZzzzzz :P

Hehe thanks :) I remember back when I had both kits on with crappy tyres going up a windy, steep road. After a hairpin, in the wet, I applied no more than about 1/5th throttle, in 3rd gear (in an auto, remember), maybe 2000 rpm and a good 5 psi - wheelspin, *on the straight*!! Sooo much torque with sooo little throttle - it was excellent, if a little dangerous in the wet!

  • 3 months later...

Hi all, need help asap - anyone know what the pin configuration of the 25-pin cable used to connect the IEBC to the hand controller is?

I keep seeing mention of "RS232" and "serial" but I'm pretty sure they're just referring to the connector which was commonly used on those interfaces, and the cable should actually be "straight-through" all pins connected 25-pin male-male?

I have the IEBC LED's lighting up and the hand controller display working fine but none of the switches on the hand controller do anything; shorting the high/low switch on the IEBC toggles the "(H)/(L)" on the display though.

Edited by DaveB

You need the correct RS232 cable . People have tried various computer cables with a similar plug but they haven't worked. Do the fine tuning of the LEDs as per the set up instructions. When you have the unit connected to the car you need to turn the car off before switching between high and low or you can cause damage. Good luck.

Thanks Robert, I didn't realise the ignition had to be off to change boost maps :) Just now done the fine tuning with the LED's... fingers crossed, but all seems to be working as the instructions suggest!

I did manage to trace my problem in the end; I had left out a wire link which connected the common side of all the switches to the cable :)

I've attached a picture of the link I missed out; it's not as obvious (to me) as the rest of the links because it is under the plug, and I missed it first pass (and second lol)

The cable I used is just a straight-through DB25 male-male (you can see it in the pic - just a couple of IDC type plugs on a length of ribbon cable). I hate how serial cables are always so confusing... so many different versions of the darn things - but I'm pretty sure that for it to be an "RS232" cable, it would need some fancy wiring - pins 2 and 3 crossed over, for instance, at the least?

This is just my experience with the cable though... straight-through works for me... BUT remember everyone, YMMV :)

pcb.jpg

Edited by DaveB

DB25 straight through is correct. A couple of things to remember with RS-232 are; pin assignments are in perspective of the DTE (computer) and cables are straight through unless named otherwise

Thanks Ben, someone who knows something about rs232 :) I never heard of a straight-through rs232 cable before though? Always thought TD had to be to RD, CTS had to be wired to DTS or DTR or whichever one it is, etc etc?

bloody null modem cables, there are 50 million kinds of those too... :P

so really, PC modems for instance (an example of a DCE?) which used to plugin with serial cables (usually 9-pin to 9-pin) - those cables are straight-through? But they didn't usually even have all 9 pins connected...?

edit: This is totally off-topic... but I just happened to notice in your sig. that you are using a water-air intercooler on your DR30... do you have a thread anywhere with any details of this cooler setup? I would love to do the same to my stagea...

Edited by DaveB

Just had my 34 tuned at RE customs with the DFA. Managed to go from my previous dyno figure of 161.7rwkw to 177rwkw. AFR's are much nicer. Ray figured out the DFA fairly quickly, all up taking around 45 minutes. Very happy with the results, high end response is significantly better.

bloody null modem cables, there are 50 million kinds of those too... :whistling:

so really, PC modems for instance (an example of a DCE?) which used to plugin with serial cables (usually 9-pin to 9-pin) - those cables are straight-through? But they didn't usually even have all 9 pins connected...?

edit: This is totally off-topic... but I just happened to notice in your sig. that you are using a water-air intercooler on your DR30... do you have a thread anywhere with any details of this cooler setup? I would love to do the same to my stagea...

Correct regarding the DB9 cable, and I'll PM you re: the IC.

:(

  • 2 weeks later...

Hi all,

Just an idea... this has probably been mentioned before. Regarding the vent hole size for the IEBC. I found that the S2 one seems to be about 2mm which, according to the tuner, is same as R34 (which would make sense :))

Thing is, I think 1mm would be closer to ideal for my setup, because currently my solenoid comes on at 30% at load point 10, has to do 70% duty cycle by load point 34 and it's at 100% by load point 50.

A couple of guys have used some sort of adjustable venturi valve, which sounds ideal. But I don't know where to get one and the hardware places I've asked have no idea what I'm talking about (makes sense cause I don't either!)

I thought about it and it really just needs to be a basic tap/faucet type device, no? Just a valve which restricts the size of a hole, regardless of the shape? The closest I have found was a watering system dripper, which was cheap but was neither durable or I would think reliable since the slightest knock/warp from heat and the hole size would change dramatically. Plus not a very fine range of adjustment.

Soooo I was wondering, the old "boost tee" turbo-smart style "boost bleed" valves, which at one stage could be had for like 30 bucks (but now are all around $80-90 on ebay wtf???) weren't they just a tap with a very fine range of adjustment? Or did they have something else fancy to them?

An example of the device I'm talking about (this is a new one off ebay so I don't know if it is different to the old ones).

...what do you think, cheap & very convenient way of adjusting vent size? Or not suitable?

Edited by DaveB

I am using a brass needle valve available from enginering supply stores (You will need a male/male one or if it is a M/F or female/female you will need one or two "tails" to push the hoses on). It allows for very fine adjustments.

However it is not very "stealth" and I plan to replace it with a simple restrictor. Some people use the ends of gas welding tips because they have a known size but i am probably going to fill one end of the T with solder and drill it out a bit at a time til its right.

Ah, something like this?

http://www.fnwvalve.com/FNWValve/prodDetai...OCK_ID=10000868

That doesn't look too bad... pretty small... and yeah the range of adjustment is important obviously must be as fine as possible; and I remember people saying that the mechanical boost controllers/bleed valves were very fiddly ie. small adjustment made a big difference.

Is your brass valve too bulky? Could you perhaps cable-tie it up out of the way somewhere under something?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
    • So, what else.... Power. I don't know what it is making because I haven't done a post tune dyno run yet; I will when I get a chance. It was 240rwkw dead stock. Conclusion from the day....it does not need a single kw more until I sort some other stuff. It comes on so hard that I could hear the twin N1 turbos on the R32 crying, and I just can't use what it has around a tight track with the current setup. Brakes. They are perfect. Hit them hard all day and they never felt like having an issue; you can see in the video we were making ground on much lighter cars on better tyres under brakes. They are standard (red sport) calipers, standard size discs in DBA5000 2 piece, Winmax pads and Motul RBF600 fluid, all from Matty at Racebrakes Sydney. Keeping in mind the car is more powerful than my R32 and weighs 1780, he clearly knows his shit. Suspension. This is one of the first areas I need to change. It has electronically controlled dampers from factory, but everything is just way too soft for track work even on the hardest setting (it is nice when hustling on country roads though). In particular it rolls into oversteer mid corner and pitches too much under hard braking so it becomes unstable eg in the turn 1 kink I need to brake early, turn through the kink then brake again so I don't pirouette like an AE86. I need to get some decent shocks with matched springs and sway bars ASAP, even if it is just a v1 setup until I work out a proper race/rally setup later. Tyres. I am running Yoko A052 in 235/45/18 all round, because that was what I could get in approximately the right height on wheels I had in the shed (Rays/Nismo 18x8 off the old Leaf actually!). As track tyres they are pretty poor; I note GTSBoy recently posted a porker comparo video including them where they were about the same as AD09.....that is nothing like a top line track tyre. I'll start getting that sorted but realistically I should get proper sized wheels first (likely 9.5 +38 front and 11 +55 at the rear, so a custom order, and I can't rotate them like the R32), then work out what the best tyre option is. BTW on that, Targa Tas had gone to road tyres instead of semi slicks now so that is a whole other world of choices to sort. Diff. This is the other thing that urgently needs to be addressed. It left massive 1s out of the fish hook all day, even when I was trying not too (you can also hear it reving on the video, and see the RPM rising too fast compared to speed in the data). It has an open diff that Infiniti optimistically called a B-LSD for "Brake Limited Slip Diff". It does good straight line standing start 11s but it is woeful on the track. Nismo seem to make a 2 way for it.
    • Also, I logged some data from the ECU for each session (mostly oil pressures and various temps, but also speed, revs etc, can't believe I forgot accelerator position). The Ecutek data loads nicely to datazap, I got good data from sessions 2, 3 and 4: https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-2?log=0&data=7 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-3?log=0&data=6 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-4?log=0&data=6 Each session is cut into 3 files but loaded together, you can change between them in the top left. As the test sessions are mostly about the car, not me, I basically start by checking the oil pressure (good, or at least consistent all day). These have an electrically controlled oil pump which targets 25psi(!) at low load and 50 at high. I'm running a much thicker oil than recommended by nissan (they said 0w20, I'm running 10w40) so its a little higher. The main thing is that it doesn't drop too far, eg in the long left hand fish hook, or under brakes so I know I'm not getting oil surge. Good start. Then Oil and Coolant temp, plus intercooler and intake temps, like this: Keeping in mind ambient was about 5o at session 2, I'd say the oil temp is good. The coolant temp as OK but a big worry for hot days (it was getting to 110 back in Feb when it was 35o) so I need to keep addressing that. The water to air intercooler is working totally backwards where we get 5o air in the intake, squish/warm it in the turbos (unknown temp) then run it through the intercoolers which are say 65o max in this case, then the result is 20o air into the engine......the day was too atypical to draw a conclusion on that I think, in the united states of freedom they do a lot of upsizing the intercooler and heat exchanger cores to get those temps down but they were OK this time. The other interesting (but not concerning) part for me was the turbo speed vs boost graph: I circled an example from the main straight. With the tune boost peaks at around 18psi but it deliberately drops to about 14psi at redline because the turbos are tiny - they choke at high revs and just create more heat than power if you run them hard all the way. But you can also see the turbo speed at the same time; it raises from about 180,000rpm to 210,000rpm which the boost falls....imagine the turbine speed if they held 18psi to redline. The wastegates are electrically controlled so there is a heap of logic about boost target, actual boost, delta etc etc but it all seems to work well
    • hahah when youtube subscribers are faster than my updates here. Yes some vid from the day is up, here:  Note that as with all track day videos it is boring watching after the bloopers at the start.  The off was a genuine surprise to me, I've literally done a thousand laps around the place and I've never had instability there; basically it rolled into oversteer, slipped, gripped and spat me out. On the way off I mowed down one of the instructor's cones and it sat there all day looking at me with accusing cone eyes as I drove past. 1:13:20 was my fastest lap, and it was in the second session, 3rd lap.  It (or me!) got slower throughout the day as it got hotter.      
×
×
  • Create New...