Jump to content
SAU Community

R32 GTST FMIC piping questions??

$$slowmedown
 Share

Recommended Posts

$$slowmedown Mentor

$$slowmedown

Posted
Posted

Hey all

I am thinking about buying a FMIC from modyourcar.com or UAS so the cost of

the new cooler is $399 for 600x300x76 (core dimensions). Will this size be to big

as i am only running stock boost and no other mods??? Would the 450x300x76

suit better???

ALSO, what is best to do with piping? Can you buy kits from somewhere? Can

anyone recommend anywhere in the Bris area that can do the piping for the right

price??? I am guessing the pipe work should be under $200 ??

Any other hints/advice would be great!!

Rob

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/61258-r32-gtst-fmic-piping-questions/
Share on other sites
R32Skyliner Enthusiast

R32Skyliner

Posted
Posted

Heard of people paying up to $1K for piping. I guess it depends on where you want to run the piping and how much you want to do yourself. You could probably go to an exhaust shop and get some pipes and then buy some silicon hoses and put it together yourself. If you choose this option, probably run the pipes along the front of the car and use then factory piping until it goes into the front area for the original intercooler. I'm in a similar situation, I have a cooler sitting in my bedroom and am trying to sort out piping. I'm considering the option I mentioned as it should be the cheapest, probably around your original figure.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Neil's R33 Gts-t Build

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Just as a thought, if it's in neutral, thats your drive line disconnect, not the clutch. Clutch slip at the dyno with pedal fully out, is actually adding a second disconnect. So it's not a clutch issue if you're in neutral. Just a bit of friction dragging the output around while in the air.
    • GTSBoy
      "Cheap" bolt on turbo on RB25DET NEO

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The HG high flow is excellent, and costs about the $$ you're talking about. But it, and probably every other highflow, uses a diffeent core than the original turo, and the original Hitatchi core is quite long. So, I think it is inevitable that there is likely no such thing as a highflow that just "bolts on" with no other effort required. And the same is likely true for HG's outright replacement "bolt on" turbos (the ATR things). And the same is likely true for anything similar from elsewhere. I have no idea if the cheap Chinese/Taiwanese complete turbos from eBay/Temu/etc are as bolt on as they claim. I mean, they claim the bolt onto the NAs as well as the turbos, and we know that can't be "bolt on". But it wouldn't matter because I'm not buying a $169 4 psi turbo for anything other than a paddock basher.
    • Kapr
      "Cheap" bolt on turbo on RB25DET NEO

      By Kapr · Posted

      Bummer...yeah i "need" something to "ease" up the work and for my driving it would be enough.    Iam counting the tune "without" turbo. I do not mean "cheap" like something from Temu around 200 USD, "Cheap" is something around 1000 USD? 
    • GTSBoy
      Neil's R33 Gts-t Build

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Starter motors used to use the weight of metal (magnets) to provide torque. Now they use (more) current instead. This. It's completely normal.
    • Duncan
      Neil's R33 Gts-t Build

      By Duncan · Posted

      So thing that had me stumped, but I think is OK....is that when it was up in the air, in neutral I had it running to bleed to coolant while I put the wheels back on. I noticed the rears were turning (slowly) which I'd never seen before 20250928_163512.mp4     Because there had been an issue with clutch slip due to pedal adjustment on the dyno, I assumed there was still and issue so spent some quality time upside down under the dash adjusting the pedal....but no matter what I did the wheels still turned in neutral. Even disconnected the master cylinder to pedal rod and same. In despair, I even removed the clutch slave so there was no chance of any preload causing it.....still happened. So either: 1. Something is not right in the bellhousing, or 2. Its a thing sometimes with cold, thick gearbox oil Internet says it might be 2, I hope so!
×
×
  • Create New...